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HELP!!! Engine won't kick

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Old 05-30-2003, 06:31 PM
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Chas
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Post HELP!!! Engine won't kick

On my all stock besides chips and lbe 951..

I took most of the intake plumbing apart to clean, inspect (remove an old cam belt roller from below the air filter that the mechanic dropped in there!!!), and look for vacuum leaks.

I put everything back together, and tried to start the engine but no luck <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />

It turned over and over and over, and after about 3 times of looking under the hood for obvious problems and going back to try and start it.....it fired up and idled for about 2 minutes. The all of the sudden it shut off.

So I'm thinking either a problem with fuel or spark. I did unplug the connector to the barn door AFM without unhooking the battery. That's not a problem is it?

What are some things I should check to get this car runnin again. What on the fuel rail should I check? What about the fuel pump? Distributor?

Are there vacuum lines that would prevent the engine from running???

I'm gonna go back out and work on this some more...I'll check back shortly. Please help! <img border="0" alt="[crying]" title="" src="graemlins/crying.gif" />
Old 05-30-2003, 06:35 PM
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smkn951
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as far as ican tell unplugging the afm conn w/ the bat conn did do any harm to me but for safety measures any electrical work it would be a good idea to disconn the batt.
i had a similar problem with mine when i did the vacuum lines and intake system, i isntalled the plug wires backwards.
hope this helps
Old 05-30-2003, 06:39 PM
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which plug wires? spark plug wires from the distributer? Cause I didn't unplug any of those...
Old 05-30-2003, 06:44 PM
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smkn951
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that's it. sorry if i wasn't clear
when i did my intake, i took everything out and cleaned it, thus the mess up on mine.
hey how bout the fuse for the fuel inj pump?
did u take the throttle body to clean it? it might be the tps.
Old 05-30-2003, 06:47 PM
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I didn't take off the throttle body. I'll check the fuel pump fuse....I am assuming that is in the main fuse box.

Is the fuel pump itself easily visible?
Old 05-30-2003, 06:51 PM
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smkn951
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yep the fuse is in the fuse box, and i believe the fuel pump is not visible it might be in the tank
Old 05-30-2003, 07:37 PM
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Lemme ask this. I think the wire going to the distributor is bad...

What is the voltage/current of that center wire going into the distributor. Also, what is the voltage/current of the individual spark plug wires?
Old 05-30-2003, 10:21 PM
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Chas
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UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!

So I got it running...took if for a drive. It ran perfectly normal for about 10 minutes. Then it was like someone was playing "play with the light switch" with my ignition or fuel. The car would hesitate, then lurch forward, then hesitate, then lurch forward. It did this when I was coming to a stop at a stoplight. It then completely stalled. I started it, it ran for a second, then stalled. After about 45 seconds...it started back up and ran perfectly fine for the way back home (about 10 minutes).

List me some things that this could be...fuel pump, something with the ignition. The biggest question I have is, is there anything with a vacuum line that would cause something like this??? (as I messed with that before it happened)

Thanks in advance
Old 05-30-2003, 11:47 PM
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* Make sure all of your hoses/clamps are fine especially on the pressure side.
* Get electric parts cleaner and spray the connector at the AFM and TPS. Reinstall properly.

* Your DME relay might be acting up. Bypass it and see if the problem continues.

Most than likely, it's something in the area that you worked on last.
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Old 05-31-2003, 12:06 AM
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But would a pressure leak cause the car to stall???

The TPS still makes the click on full closed throttle, so it seems the unit itself still works, and I didn't remove the connecter to the unit.

Where should I bypass the DME?
Old 05-31-2003, 12:28 AM
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tazman
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If the car ran ok before you took stuff apart 99% of the time the problem is something where you were working. If the electrical connection is not plugged in for the AFM the car will not run, so check that. If you played with the AFM at all make sure the flapper inside is still moving freely. For an air leak to make the car turn off it would have to be a pretty big one so check the big rubber boots for tears or loose hoses.
Old 05-31-2003, 01:40 AM
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I agree Tom, always look to the last source for the problem. Check all the connections you last touched.
Old 05-31-2003, 01:39 PM
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I'm thinking it's either a loose AFM connector or a loose distributor wire, as I'm sure I brushed against those as I was taking out plumbing

with the on/off (complete hesitation followed by lurching forward) characteristic of the problem...I can't see how a tear in the j-pipe or something similar would cause that condition. It seems to me that it might be a loose wire that is wigging between contact/no contact

...not that these aren't GREAT suggestions...I am going to go through all the plumping again right now to see if I left something undone.

Thanks for all the help so far!
Old 06-01-2003, 12:47 PM
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Just to give resolution to the post.

I went through the plumping and all seems fine. The car drives fine, so the problem seems to have fixed itself.

I'll have Curry's see if they can find anything when I take her in for belt retentioning

Thanks to all for the help! <img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />



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