help, hesitation between 3 and 4 000 rpm
10-02-2011, 11:28 PM
#16
What did the mechanic check? That would be good to know as well.
10-06-2011, 05:56 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
10-07-2011, 08:40 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
I remember that I didn't have to go WOT for the car to hesitate, only had to give it enough throttle under/entering boost for the ignition to not have enough juice. That was as little as about 2/3 throttle or more. Once the rpm's got above about 4500, I could go WOT again. Although the problem got worse and worse until it was fixed.
10-07-2011, 11:28 AM
#21
Strange things happen at strange times in strange situations.
I remember that I didn't have to go WOT for the car to hesitate, only had to give it enough throttle under/entering boost for the ignition to not have enough juice. That was as little as about 2/3 throttle or more. Once the rpm's got above about 4500, I could go WOT again. Although the problem got worse and worse until it was fixed.
I remember that I didn't have to go WOT for the car to hesitate, only had to give it enough throttle under/entering boost for the ignition to not have enough juice. That was as little as about 2/3 throttle or more. Once the rpm's got above about 4500, I could go WOT again. Although the problem got worse and worse until it was fixed.
10-07-2011, 02:18 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Luckily, it was just the spark plugs. But if any part of the ignition system isn't capable of flowing enough current, or any in extreme cases, the mixture won't combust. The OP says the black smoke (fuel) comes out the exhaust when getting on it. Exact same symptoms as mine, as per his description. But that's why I mentioned making a quick video to see and hear what's happening.
There's another recent thread where the car was experiencing similar symptoms. It turned out it was the MAF's piggyback was set improperly. But since the OP mentioned the engine is stock, I am under the assumption the car has no MAF.
How old is the cap and rotor? Condition of plug wires, especially at the connectors. I would recheck the spark plug gaps to make sure they are gapped properly. You'd be amazed at how little shop mechanics know about our cars!
There's another recent thread where the car was experiencing similar symptoms. It turned out it was the MAF's piggyback was set improperly. But since the OP mentioned the engine is stock, I am under the assumption the car has no MAF.
How old is the cap and rotor? Condition of plug wires, especially at the connectors. I would recheck the spark plug gaps to make sure they are gapped properly. You'd be amazed at how little shop mechanics know about our cars!
10-07-2011, 06:38 PM
#23
10-14-2011, 02:15 PM
#25
My hesitation has been resolved.
It turns out that the grounds are to blame. My battery cables are fairly corroded and I will be changing them.
There are 2 engine grounds near the firewall behind the motor. One is large and connects to the negative battery cable as well as the main harness. The second is smaller and connects to the harness. I ran and additional ground from this small point (6 gauge wire) to a strut tower bolt where I made sure to strip the paint under the bolt where the ground wire was attached.
Essentially I created a ground strap from the chassis to the motor. Acceleration is now very smooth and even throughout all throttle position and at all boost levels.
I still plan on changing all the battery cables - I have already bought a negative cable replacement.
It turns out that the grounds are to blame. My battery cables are fairly corroded and I will be changing them.
There are 2 engine grounds near the firewall behind the motor. One is large and connects to the negative battery cable as well as the main harness. The second is smaller and connects to the harness. I ran and additional ground from this small point (6 gauge wire) to a strut tower bolt where I made sure to strip the paint under the bolt where the ground wire was attached.
Essentially I created a ground strap from the chassis to the motor. Acceleration is now very smooth and even throughout all throttle position and at all boost levels.
I still plan on changing all the battery cables - I have already bought a negative cable replacement.
