JJK78

Well "not good" is completely different from "you will ruin it by push starting the car". I have never heard of a catalytic converter being ruined or really even damaged by push starting a car, ever.

spanky

I dont have the cat installed so no worries on that issure.

Black51

Ever read your car factory manual? See what it says about push starting a car...

Have you heard of someone push starting a car to begin with?

spanky

My update is as follows, On Sat I disconnected both reference sensors, ohm tested them as per Clarks, contact cleaned the connectors and reconnected each. Removed the DME and KLR from their mounts, inspected both wiring harnesses ( found nothing amiss/loose/ broken), cleaned both points of connection also with contact cleaner( DME,s and harnesses) Put everything back together.Started the car up and let it run in in the garage for an hour at 3500rpm until it was hot. At the end of this 1 hour run. I shut it doun and did 25 repeated restarts over the next 2 hours never allowing the car to cool down. Car started every single time. I then drove the car for anther 2 hrs stopping here and there , shuting it down and restarting it 4 diffrent times. Each damm time it restarted. My new reference sensors arrived this morning and to be safe I plan to install them this upcoming weekend but this may have been a case of dirty connectors for thr 2 sensors or the BME/ harnesss units. I dont know.

pnbell

I have just read every post here, and will say confidently you BOTH need to check the Solder Joints of the large Transistor on the DME Board.

This Transistor controls ignition, and gets very hot while running. After 20+ years of getting Very Hot and Cold, this Joint forms very small cracks; This causes intermittent Stalling/No Start... Eventually when it cracks completely the car will never start.

I just had this happen a few months ago, all these exact symptoms happened to me.

It require Re-Soldering the Connection;
**As a Note: i had never Soldered in my life. Just bought a Cheap Iron, Some Solder, and Went to Work! It is Very Easy, and My Car is fixed! Click Below

CLICK HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good Luck, Let me know if this works!

spanky

Im more than willing to look into this as being the root cause for my issure's. thanks for this advice and pic's.

spanky

Last weekend the 2 new reference sensors were changed out with 2 new units, a very straight forward process. i have large hands so it was a tight fit. The car started up and was driven all wkend( sat sunday), restarted each and every tine with no sign of not wanting to fire up . Im not ready to declare victory yet but so far so good. Will keep you posted if any thing related to this issure reappears. Take care!!!

azbanks

There is a valve that controls fuel line pressure that can cause the same types of no start issues. I have forgotten the name of the valve but you can find it with a search. If this valve fails, the fuel line does not maintain pressure and the car won't start. It also starts as an intermittent issue. I installed a fuel pressure gauge on my fuel rail to diagnose this problem.
Continuously cranking the car won't help get it started. Short cranks(1.5 -2 seconds) work eventually. Each time you crank MIGHT give you fuel pressure and then the car will start.

zerMATT951

There's a check valve in the banjo fitting at the fuel pump, but that is not required to run the car. All it does is maintain pressure for quicker starts... without it, you just have to crank an extra couple of seconds.

azbanks

That's the valve I was thinking of. Extra cranking did not help in my case. I had crank over and over again until one of the cranks caused pressure.

zerMATT951

Per Lindsey instructions when upgrading to the HV or 044 fuel pumps, my check valve is drilled out - gone completely. I've also enlarged the holes through the banjo fitting. Now everything is the size of the hole through the fuel filter, something like 9/32".

Maybe your check valve was stuck closed?

CRBennington

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Would this missing sensor have something to do with it? Especially considering the starting issues fluctuating with the weather? I thought the missing one was the temp gauge sensor, but the gauge works well. Temp gauge comes up sitting in crappy traffic and goes down in highway cruising.

If I do have tach bounce, both right before starting and even during the no start issues, can I rule out reference sensor completely?

Ronin-951

Theres TWO Temperture sensors, one for the gauge, and one for the DME - acts like an electric choke by adjusting fuel mixture depending on engine temp.

zerMATT951

The empty hole in your picture is not for a sensor, it is not used as far as I know. My '86 head doesn't even have a threaded hole there - it's filled.

The green arrow points to the DME temp sensor, the red arrow points to the gauge temp sensor. If either of these sensors were missing, you'd have coolant spewing out all over the place...

CRBennington

Well crap. Thought I was on to something. So the one on the left in that picture is the DME temp sensor though?