fast951

A few general suggestions:
- Have you replaced the spark plugs after they became wet?

For testing Start with new spark plugs, remove the fuse for the fuel pump. We are just checking for spark now - No need to keep dumping fuel.
- Have you verified there is no signal to the coil? You can place a LED (with resistor) on both terminals of the coil (Black wire is +12V and Green gets Ground from DME to fire). If LED is flashing, then the DME/KLR are working and your problem is elsewhere (coil, cap/rotor,..). If LED is constantly on, you have a short to ground in the wire from DME to the coil (Green wire) , or a bad DME or DME chip.
- Another test you can run will be to bypass the KLR box all together. This will be for testing only!!! You can run this test first.. Disconnect connector from KLR box. On the KLR connector (while unplugged) jumper pin #9 and #16 (this will run the ignition in loopback mode). If you get a spark (or the LED flashes at the coil) then you have a problem with the KLR or KLR chip.. If you do not get a spark, then the problem is in the DME, DME chip or the wire from DME to coil.

hope this helps, good luck.

FRZ

The AFR have the gauge with a central controller, I explain:

There is 4 harness that connect to the controller: Power, sensor, gauge and the analog output harness. Like this (http://prosportgauges.com/Wideband%2...structions.pdf) but mine have a analog output harness at the left of the sensor plug.

Here is how I wired it.

Power harness:
Red(12v): 12V radio
Black(ground): ashtray light brown ground wire.
White(12v acc): same 12V radio because ive only this wire for the radio.
Orange(12v headlight): ashtray light wire

Analog Output Harness.
Black(ground): A unused groud wire under the glove box
Brown(Wideband analog output 0-5V(0v to 10AFR, 5 to 20AFR): Wired to the green wire OEM o2 sensor on the DME pins #24 if I remember well.
Green(Narrow Band analog outpt 0-1V (0V to 20AFR, 1V to 10AFR): Unused, I put electrical tape on it.

Thats it..

fast951

You should have connected the Green(Narrow Band analog outpt 0-1V) to the OEM O2 sensor DME #24.

The Brown(Wideband analog output 0-5V) should not be connected to the DME #24

DME #24 accepts a Narrowband signal (0-1V).

FRZ

Yep, all brand new 4 plugs, but they are still yet because I made a test today with the new plugs.. still no sparks so they are wet.

I have a multimeter. Stupid question: where is the black & green wire? One the DME pins plug??

After placing a wire from pin #9 & #16, is I need to remove the KLR chip inside!?

An other question that nobody answer me: I removed the spark plugs and they are still wet of fuel. I think this is normal because injectors and pulsing, so as there is no sparks the fuel go on the spark plugs exact!? When I look into the spark plugs holes with a flashlight and shake the car, I can see fuel waving in the combustion chamber, is it normal too!?

hope this helps, good luck. -> yes this will help me a lot I think. Thanks

FRZ

Ok yes but.. I have a wideband supplied with the gauge kit sensor that send 0-5V.. I must use wideband wire no to get accurate readings!?

if I use the narrow wire to connect with the green o2sensor in the dme pins the gauge will read as accurate as should be no!?

Tom M'Guinn

You should NOT connect the wideband 5 volt signal to the DME. The DME only accepts a 1 volt narrowband signal, and is not compatible with the 5 volt signal from the wideband. Don't connect anything to the dme other than the factory sensor. The factory sensor is very accurate for what it needs to do -- i.e., keeping the AFR near 14.7. Hopefully, the 5 volt signal did not damage the DME!

FRZ

Oh really..!? Damn. I started the car one time.. hope too.

But I think the DME is still good because my injectors are pulsing, the fuel pump work too.

Once I will get my car started, and had the wideband installed in a drilled hole very downstream the turbo, what I do with the Analog Output Harness? Is It unusefull? I mean If I keep the OEM sensor with the wideband sensor downstream connected to the gauge, I will get read and the OEM sensor will make his job to the DME exact? So I dont need the analog output harness !?

Analog Output Harness.
Black(ground)
Brown(Wideband analog output 0-5V(0v to 10AFR, 5 to 20AFR)
Green(Narrow Band analog outpt 0-1V (0V to 20AFR, 1V to 10AFR)

Tedro951

Just me, but I would put down the keyboard and do what these guys are saying. Or, put a little more fuel in the cylinders manually to ensure a bent rod.

FRZ

Just me, but I would put down the keyboard and do what these guys are saying ... this is what i'm trying to do..

For the bent rod..the engine is 1000km freshly rebuilt.. I dont think. If you read the previous plost you will read the car was running normal, except the rough idle due to the bad outpût signal wire I plugued to the DME. Maybe I fried the DME with this, I must test it tonight.

Before post, please read the prvious postS to understand the discussion.. howerver thanks for the suggested idea..

fast951

Wet plug will not help. Keep the plugs in the head and just use a new plug, to test for spark with.
The Black & Green are on the coil itself.. You need a Noid light or a LED arrangement.. A voltmeter allows you to check for +12V on the black wire (with ignition ON).

You unplug/disconnect the harness from the KLR box. You do the test with the KLR unplugged, just jumper the wires on the KLR plug on the harness side..


No, having fuel puddling on top of the pistons is NOT NORMAL.

WARNING - You are messing with fuel, and you are risking a fire.. As long as there is fuel on top of the pistons, do not attempt to crank the engine... Too much fuel and you can bend a rod as fuel does not compress!!
First thing you want to do is :
- !!!!DISCONNECT the battery!!!!
- Remove the spark plugs and allow the fuel to evaporate (compressed air will speed up the process)..

- Once you are 100% sure there is no more fuel on top of the pistons (or anywhere else outside the fuel rail). You can proceed with your testing..
- Don't forget to remove the Fuel Pump FUSE..

Have you considered taking the car to a professional mechanic?

Tedro951

I've read the previous posts. John gave very simple instructions to test the coil. You came back with "I have a multimeter, where are the black and green wires" and something about the DME.

WTF?

John also mentioned bypassing the KLR using a very simple technique. You came back with "...is I need to remove the KLR chip inside?" If you've removed the connector from the KLR box and jumped the pins as John says, why would you want to remove the chip? You could put the KLR box in the bedroom closet, since the connector is off for jumping the pins.

Tom M'Guinn

There may be a language barrier here...?

FRZ

Hey men, what is the best? Ask more questions to be SURE about what I will do, or think its ok and make the problem worst!?? Sorry if im not that good as you apear to be but shut up

FRZ

Ok I will take a look. Normally berfore cranking I remove the fuel with a hose in each cylinders. I will call my mechanic today to ask him some questions. thanks sir for the help.

FRZ

Well, I think I'm getting no sparks, but injections. This is what I did:

1. Removed the fuel pump fuse
2. Removed the fuel rail keeping all plugged on it. I took a "big bowl" where I can sit the injectors and the fuel rail in.
3. Cranked the car a lilbit to drain test if the injectors sprays -> Yep. All the 4. As the injectors was drained and the fuel pump fuse is removed, I re-installed the fuel rail in place.
4. Removed all the plugs
5. Put one plug into the #1 plug wire and my neighbor put the plug's electrod on the headlight metal grey bar.
6. Cranked the car a little, nothing.
7. Made same thing with the #3 plug wire, nothing.

As the 4 plugs was removed, is its normal that the car seems to crank "light". The sound was something like if the starter was turning alone. There was not the normal cranking engine sound like wap-wap-wap-wap vroom. It was like waaaaaaaaap, an equal sound. Dont know if you understand what I mean. I asked my neighbor to take a look at the engine pulley and they are rotating. I'm 99% sure this is because there is no compression because the plug holes are open. So no compression.. Someone can confirm!?

As my mechanic said, DME can be just in some place exemple the spark's circuit can be fried but the rest of the DME is running fine.

What other test I can do now to find the sparks problem? I there a way to test the DME without getting an other DME!?

I was reading on the forum and I saw this, maybe its the KLR ? heh
[...]
The 951 DME is expecting to talk to the KLR - it sends the ignition signal to the KLR, and waits for it to be returned to the DME before firing the ignition coil
[...]

Thats complicating the problem now..