Best way to replace stabilizer bar bushings?
05-26-2003, 08:26 PM
#1
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Best way to replace stabilizer bar bushings?
Hi All -
One of the inner bushings for my front stabilizer bar has self-destructed. I figure it's time to replace all of them, and my instinct is that the car should be on jack stands when I do this so that the suspension is not under load. Does anybody have experience with this? Could I do the job with the car on ramps - which is easier for me?
Secondly, is there any advantage to going non-OEM on the new stabilizer bar bushings? I don't track my car though I do like to drive it in the manner for which it was made, i.e. fast. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Thanks for the input.
One of the inner bushings for my front stabilizer bar has self-destructed. I figure it's time to replace all of them, and my instinct is that the car should be on jack stands when I do this so that the suspension is not under load. Does anybody have experience with this? Could I do the job with the car on ramps - which is easier for me?
Secondly, is there any advantage to going non-OEM on the new stabilizer bar bushings? I don't track my car though I do like to drive it in the manner for which it was made, i.e. fast. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Thanks for the input.
05-26-2003, 10:09 PM
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Three Wheelin'
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I did my front bushings a while back with the car on jack stands with no problems. I also just replaced my rear with a Weltmeister bar and did it with the car on ramps so I think you can do it either way. About the non-OEM bushings I think they can be more noisy I am trying to get an answer on that myself with the rear.
05-26-2003, 11:33 PM
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I just replaced both the front and rear sway bars to MO30 sways. I did not consider using "ramps" at the time....
For the front swaybar:
1)I did the same as Tazman and jacked the front of the car up.
2)put front of the car on jack stands.
3)remove wheels
4)remove bushings from a-arm (may need to use jack to jack up the a-arm to be parallel to the ground to pull the bushings out).
5)remove bushings from a-arm on the other side (may need to use jack to jack up the a-arm to be parallel to the ground to pull the bushings out).
6)remove center sway bushing mounts.
7)pry open center sway bushing mounts to remove old bushings.
Reverse instructions to install new bushings with sways.
For the rear swaybar:
1)Jack up the rear.
2)place jack stands.
3)remove wheels.
4)remove bushings from droplink.
5)remove bushings from rear sway bracket (by this time, the sway should be sitting on the exhaust pipe).
6)work the swaybar out.
Reverse instructions to install new bushings with sways.
As for non-OEM bushings, I have not used them so far so I'll let someone else chime in.
Good luck.
For the front swaybar:
1)I did the same as Tazman and jacked the front of the car up.
2)put front of the car on jack stands.
3)remove wheels
4)remove bushings from a-arm (may need to use jack to jack up the a-arm to be parallel to the ground to pull the bushings out).
5)remove bushings from a-arm on the other side (may need to use jack to jack up the a-arm to be parallel to the ground to pull the bushings out).
6)remove center sway bushing mounts.
7)pry open center sway bushing mounts to remove old bushings.
Reverse instructions to install new bushings with sways.
For the rear swaybar:
1)Jack up the rear.
2)place jack stands.
3)remove wheels.
4)remove bushings from droplink.
5)remove bushings from rear sway bracket (by this time, the sway should be sitting on the exhaust pipe).
6)work the swaybar out.
Reverse instructions to install new bushings with sways.
As for non-OEM bushings, I have not used them so far so I'll let someone else chime in.
Good luck.
05-27-2003, 02:54 PM
#4
Race Director
It's easier if you drive up on ramps, or jack the car up and put several blocks of wood under the front wheels.
This keeps the A-arms parallel to the ground which makes getting the drop-link bushings easier to get in and out of the sway-bars. Do the D-bushings first and use a little grease (I've found adding some graphite extends the service-interval). Now that the swaybar can pivot up and down easily, the end-link bushings are easier to replace (do both at the same time).
This keeps the A-arms parallel to the ground which makes getting the drop-link bushings easier to get in and out of the sway-bars. Do the D-bushings first and use a little grease (I've found adding some graphite extends the service-interval). Now that the swaybar can pivot up and down easily, the end-link bushings are easier to replace (do both at the same time).