dmw319

great! ill get that 160

looking through my records, the turbo thermostat was done in late 08 so I might just skip that one. this car was not driven more than 10k in the last 6 years... haha.

zerMATT951

Yup, skip it.

Sounds like your cost is becoming more and more reasonable!

dmw319

yep!! awesome huh? here is my new parts list. decided to go with regular (non kevlar) belts.

Timing Belt - $14.50
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...C%20Each%20%20

Balance Shaft Belt - $37.25
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...39%36%38%20%20

944 Full Tool Kit - $150
http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...roducts_id=187

Oil Filter Wrench - $9
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...drive%29%20%20

Tune Up Kit (Plugs, Oil/Air/Fuel Filters, Oil Drain plug seal, Distributor Cap/Rotor - $137
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...36%2D%38%39%29

Distributor Cap and Rotor Kit - $52
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Distr...251_2e00_2eKIT

Behr Radiator Cap - $17
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...9%2C%20Each%20

Magwire 1200 degree Wire Set - $80
http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/MAGWIRE.html

Reman Water Pump - $95 (Core charge of $100)
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/944_T...e_Version.html

Thermostat - $10.25
http://www.allzim.com/cgi/sh000001.p...106_2e129_2e05

Water Pump Hardware Kit - $11
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/944_T...6_2e021_2eHARD

Short Elbow Water Pump Hose - $3.95
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Short...106_2e241_2e03

Fryebraid Wire Set - $80
http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Fyreb...8RE09_2d566WWF


I will also still need to find/borrow a 10mm triple square bit from somewhere..

zerMATT951

That list looks totally reasonable to me. I'm guessing you are having problems with the DME relay, so it's getting replaced? I only ask because that's typically not a maintenance item.

Good call on Zim's remanufactured water pump, I've used two and had great luck with them in my own cars and the 924S is going on like 13 years now (with a new owner).

If you are thinking about changing your transaxle oil any time soon, you might also pick up the 3/8 drive 17mm internal hex socket from Zim's when you place your order. It's only $7.95 and won't add to your shipping cost at all.

dmw319

nah, DME is fine.. just thought i could have a spare laying around in case i needed it. guess i could just leave it out! thanks so much for all your help once again!

zerMATT951

Oh heck, there are so many parts on these cars that could break and leave you stranded, I'm not sure which one I'd pick to have a spare of kicking around!

Good luck with the project - these cars are somewhat challenging, but also very rewarding to work on. Just take your time, just don't take 5 years like I did! (although I should say that I had some major interruptions with my project)

dmw319

Well all my researching the past 2 days paid off. I just spent $685.78 on all my Porsche parts! I got most of it from Zims after all instead of going everywhere. Only thing I didnt get there was the specialty tools

Turbo17

I just did my clutch and rear main seal followed by the front engine seals and timing/balance belts. For tools, I skipped all the specialty stuff. The balance shaft sprockets were held with 90 degree needle nose pliers. I constructed my own flywheel lock, since I already had the clutch housing open. I used the twist method to set the belt tensions. I was willing to gamble a bit, but all of the reasonably priced tools for setting tension seemed to have a very large variation on tension readings. About the only tool I would have liked was the thin wrench for adjusting. It was awkward getting in there with the larger wrench in position. There are some decent Youtube videos on this if you haven't done it before.

dmw319

Preciate that turbo17! I went ahead and bought the 150 dollar tool kit from arnnworx. only thing left I need is oil for the oil change and the 10mm triple square bit!

zerMATT951

Zim's used to carry an S-K triple square set that included the 10mm, but they can't get it now. There are some other sources like $3.99 for a 4-piece Chinese set from Northern Tool, but this is one of those situations where a cheap tool can really hurt. If you strip out that shallow cam bolt because the tool failed, it's VERY difficult to remove.

I bought a Snap-On tool several years ago and it's more than paid for itself because it's pulled out 2 bolts that had been mangled by previous mechanics. The bit with "socket driver" is FTSM10E for $29.75 - this includes the 3/8 drive chrome socket. They also sell the bit by itself (FTSM10E2) for $10, but you don't get the chrome socket. I'm not sure what size he shank is, but it's 6-sided, so surely it would fit into a regular 6 or 12-point socket from a regular socket set... probably somewhere in the 10-12mm or 7/16-1/2 range.

Here's the bit with socket FTSM10E:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Here is the bit by itself FTSM10E2 (even though the picture shows it with the chrome socket attached, it is NOT included for $10):
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

dmw319

much appreciated my friend! If I can't find one from a friend I will get that one!

Turbo17

On the triple square - I recommend buying all 3: 12mm, 10 mm and 8mm. I needed two for the back of the engine - clutch/flywheel/transaxle job, and the last for the front of the engine. I bought them separately (from NAPA) and have two that are just bits that fit into 6 point sockets and one with the 1/2" drive chrome base. They all worked well. Don't forget to use a hammer and punch (or the bit) to "wake up" the bolts. It really does help.

Also, note that these bits come under many names. I was told several times they don't carry them until I used another name:
"12 point"
"triple-square"
"cheesehead"

There was one more name I can't remember.

(I didn't mean to imply you shouldn't buy the tools, but after spending over $1000 on parts for my clutch job, I was looking to save all I could on tools. I know the posts of others really helped me, so I thought I'd drop a comment on what worked for me into this thread.)

dmw319

thanks, i may just end up buying the set from rennbay for 28 bucks

Turbo17

As long as I'm here, I'll post some comments on the front end belt job from the point of view of someone doing it for the first time. Getting the Woodruff keys out can be tricky. Use diagonals/wire cutters, open and push them tight down so the cutting edges are parallel to and flat against the shaft, then squeeze the front of the key hard and lift the handles up, the tips lever down and pull out the key. (Clean it up with a file if it gets damaged after it's out.) I needed to use a very short diagonal cutter for the lower balance shaft (it actually had cutoff handles) and squeeze the handles together with vice grips. Longer handles hit the fan shroud - I might have been smarter to remove the fans - they were in the way, but I worked around them.

The oil gear was hard to get off the crank. It only sticks out an 1/8" or less. I had to pick out the old O-ring where it contacted the crank. I carefully grabbed the gear with the same 90 degree needlenose used to remove the BS sprockets. Use care not to scrape the crank. Then I could grab it by hand and slide it off.

Study the info on the BS sprocket replacement carefully. It really is easy to get backwards or to get them turned 180 degrees top to bottom or front to back. Label and sketch everything was worth the effort for me.

Removing the distributor rotor - there was a 3mm Allen head lock bolt. It was really hard to get off (probably Loc-tite), and I was afraid the head would strip out with the force I needed. I used a 1/8" Allen (.125") instead of the 3mm (.118").

Replacing the front main seal - I used the crank bolt and a short piece of cut off pipe, the washer and a larger disk I had laying around to make a press to squarely press it in as the crank bolt was tightened. It's hard to tap in the seal without damaging it. Removing it was easy with a 10 dollar Harbor Freight seal puller.

dmw319

thanks so much for the tips! i will be sure and post up here or pm you with questions whenever i get started