How long to "break in"?
08-22-2011, 09:37 PM
#1
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How long to "break in"?
I know there will be differing opinions on this, but anyway...
I'll (hopefully) be starting my car up by next weekend, and I'm wondering how long to "break in" for... The only internal work I've done is rod bearings, but the engine has been out and empty of oil for about a month and a half, so I'm planning to run some break-in additive at first.
Anyway, what are your opinions on break-in time, how much to baby it, any other tips?
TIA
I'll (hopefully) be starting my car up by next weekend, and I'm wondering how long to "break in" for... The only internal work I've done is rod bearings, but the engine has been out and empty of oil for about a month and a half, so I'm planning to run some break-in additive at first.
Anyway, what are your opinions on break-in time, how much to baby it, any other tips?
TIA
08-22-2011, 10:42 PM
#2
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I didn't swap any internals, but since mine was apart for so many years and I had everything off, then back on, I'll probably swap the first oil fill & filter after a few hours of running. Going to use 10w-40 on the first fill. The next fill & filter will stay in for 1,000 or so, and it'll be 20w-50.
With new bearings and out-and-back so quickly, I'd think you would be good with 500-600 miles to your first change for bearing break-in, but I'm not an engine builder, so hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.
With new bearings and out-and-back so quickly, I'd think you would be good with 500-600 miles to your first change for bearing break-in, but I'm not an engine builder, so hopefully someone with more experience will chime in.
08-22-2011, 10:54 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Break-in additives and oils are more for new cams and followers. With just a bearing refresh, I wouldn't worry about any break-in.
You will have to do the regular checks with starting an engine that's been apart for a while. Do your best to prime the oil pump before cranking the engine. Once the engine is started and has oil pressure, check for leaks as it comes up to operating temperature. When the engine is up to temp, where the fans have turned on and brought the temperature back down, shut it off. Let it sit for a hour (coolant system will heat up and have higher pressure than when the engine is running). Check for coolant leaks. If everything checks out, drive the car like normal.
You will have to do the regular checks with starting an engine that's been apart for a while. Do your best to prime the oil pump before cranking the engine. Once the engine is started and has oil pressure, check for leaks as it comes up to operating temperature. When the engine is up to temp, where the fans have turned on and brought the temperature back down, shut it off. Let it sit for a hour (coolant system will heat up and have higher pressure than when the engine is running). Check for coolant leaks. If everything checks out, drive the car like normal.
08-22-2011, 11:50 PM
#4
Nordschleife Master
For just rod bearings, i would fill up with a relativley cheap dino oil (Mobil Clean 5000). Run the car for about 10-15 minutes at idle. Drain, change filter and put in your normal fill. This is what i did. I mainly wanted to flush out any crap that did not make it out (or made it in) while i was cleaning everything aswell as flush out the assembly lube. I had the head off also during this work. I plan to change the oil at 1500 miles about, then go back to my regular changes at 4k.
08-23-2011, 01:34 AM
#6
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I spoke with Dave Lindsey about priming earlier today. He confirmed his earlier recommendations of applying 10-15 psi of compressed air in the dipstick tube while cranking the engine with the ignition and fuel pump disabled (relays pulled). You also need to pinch off the AOS to j-boot (or MAF) line, or you'll never get 10-15 psi to hold. Use a rubber-tipped air nozzle at the dipstick tube.
I've also read about pouring oil into the oil filter housing to fill as much of that part of the oil plumbing. I'm assuming you'll get the oil cooler partially filled with that process.
I've also read about pouring oil into the oil filter housing to fill as much of that part of the oil plumbing. I'm assuming you'll get the oil cooler partially filled with that process.
08-23-2011, 01:42 AM
#7
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I spoke with Dave Lindsey about priming earlier today. He confirmed his earlier recommendations of applying 10-15 psi of compressed air in the dipstick tube while cranking the engine with the ignition and fuel pump disabled (relays pulled). You also need to pinch off the AOS to j-boot (or MAF) line, or you'll never get 10-15 psi to hold. Use a rubber-tipped air nozzle at the dipstick tube.
I've also read about pouring oil into the oil filter housing to fill as much of that part of the oil plumbing. I'm assuming you'll get the oil cooler partially filled with that process.
I've also read about pouring oil into the oil filter housing to fill as much of that part of the oil plumbing. I'm assuming you'll get the oil cooler partially filled with that process.
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08-23-2011, 01:56 PM
#9
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Ok, so (I think) my last concern on this is: Should I treat the car extra carefully for the first 300-500 miles? or just drive normally (read "spiritedly")?
08-23-2011, 02:04 PM
#10
Three Wheelin'
I'd take it easy for 50-100 miles or so after a bearing change just to make sure something else didn't get mucked up in the process. If you see no leaks/hear no strange noises then do one last drain/fill of oil with your normal fill and then let 'er rip.
08-23-2011, 09:05 PM
#11
This is what I did with my new 3.0L following Mike Lindsey's advice for priming.
Jason
Jason
I spoke with Dave Lindsey about priming earlier today. He confirmed his earlier recommendations of applying 10-15 psi of compressed air in the dipstick tube while cranking the engine with the ignition and fuel pump disabled (relays pulled). You also need to pinch off the AOS to j-boot (or MAF) line, or you'll never get 10-15 psi to hold. Use a rubber-tipped air nozzle at the dipstick tube.
I've also read about pouring oil into the oil filter housing to fill as much of that part of the oil plumbing. I'm assuming you'll get the oil cooler partially filled with that process.
I've also read about pouring oil into the oil filter housing to fill as much of that part of the oil plumbing. I'm assuming you'll get the oil cooler partially filled with that process.