Single or Dual Gauge Pod and which Gauges to get?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Single or Dual Gauge Pod and which Gauges to get?
I've been thinking about getting the a-pillar gauge pods, but want advice from you folks.
I need a boost gauge for the GURU chips, but was wondering if I should go ahead and get a dual-gauge pod for an Oil Temp Gauge, Air/Fuel monitor, or etc...
Which pod would you guys get and which gauges?
TIA <img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />
I need a boost gauge for the GURU chips, but was wondering if I should go ahead and get a dual-gauge pod for an Oil Temp Gauge, Air/Fuel monitor, or etc...
Which pod would you guys get and which gauges?
TIA <img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2002
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I have the one from Lo-Tek installed in my car, along with a boost gauge and an A/F gauge
<a href="http://www.gaugepods.com/944.html" target="_blank">Lo-Tek</a>
Oil Temp would probably be more helpful if you track the car. The A/F gauge is really just a dummy light since its so inaccurate. The A/F gauge was just the easiest to install (quick tap into the DME), and I needed another gauge for my gauge pod
<a href="http://www.gaugepods.com/944.html" target="_blank">Lo-Tek</a>
Oil Temp would probably be more helpful if you track the car. The A/F gauge is really just a dummy light since its so inaccurate. The A/F gauge was just the easiest to install (quick tap into the DME), and I needed another gauge for my gauge pod
#5
Race Director
you can do a search to get more views/opinions, but..Ive asked this before and your best bets for 951s are:
Electronic Fuel Pressure (about 200 bucks)
Exhaust Gas Temp (about 120 bucks)
Oil Temp (40-50 bucks)
Air/Fuel (about 50 bucks) (but I already have the ARM1, so I need another 2 1/16" to fill the other hole)
Electronic Fuel Pressure (about 200 bucks)
Exhaust Gas Temp (about 120 bucks)
Oil Temp (40-50 bucks)
Air/Fuel (about 50 bucks) (but I already have the ARM1, so I need another 2 1/16" to fill the other hole)
#6
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Here's what an A-pillar gaugepod installation looks like. This one has the Autometer boost and A/F gauges.
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/JakeGaugePod.JPG" alt=" - " />
<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/JakeGaugePod.JPG" alt=" - " />
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#8
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I think the general consensus is that teeing into the pressure line going to the KLR (under the passenger side of the dashboard) is the easiest route (no need to pass through the firewall). Thats what I did. All you need is a 7/64" rubber vacuum tee. I had trouble locating the tee locally, so I got it from napaonline. Part No. CRB2663 Here's a direct link if it'll allow me to link it: <a href="http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=23503027&prmenbr=5806" target="_blank">Napaonline 7/64" vacuum tee</a>.
#9
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by evil 944t:
<strong>What kind of pod is that? Is the boost accurate? where did you tee in?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">That is the LoTek gaugepod. You remove the factory trim in the A-pillar and replace it with this single-piece unit.
It's hard to say exactly how accurate the boost gauge is because I don't have an accurate reference to compare it to. I'm sure it's more accurate than the factory gauge in the dash, though. The two track each other fairly well, however, except that the factory one pegs out at around 15 psi.
The boost gauge tees into the vacuum/pressure line at the KLR box. All the wiring and plumbing runs inside the A-pillar and then underneath the dash.
<strong>What kind of pod is that? Is the boost accurate? where did you tee in?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">That is the LoTek gaugepod. You remove the factory trim in the A-pillar and replace it with this single-piece unit.
It's hard to say exactly how accurate the boost gauge is because I don't have an accurate reference to compare it to. I'm sure it's more accurate than the factory gauge in the dash, though. The two track each other fairly well, however, except that the factory one pegs out at around 15 psi.
The boost gauge tees into the vacuum/pressure line at the KLR box. All the wiring and plumbing runs inside the A-pillar and then underneath the dash.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2002
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I just bought the lo-tek gauge pod, and 5 indiglow gauges that change to one of seven different colors at the touch of a button.
Oh no, I am going to look like Rice! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
<a href="http://karfanatics.com/Gauges/Gauges_SPW_Color_Chart.jpg" target="_blank">http://karfanatics.com/Gauges/Gauges_SPW_Color_Chart.jpg</a>
Please don't Persecute me!
<img border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" title="" src="graemlins/drink.gif" />
Oh no, I am going to look like Rice! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
<a href="http://karfanatics.com/Gauges/Gauges_SPW_Color_Chart.jpg" target="_blank">http://karfanatics.com/Gauges/Gauges_SPW_Color_Chart.jpg</a>
Please don't Persecute me!
<img border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" title="" src="graemlins/drink.gif" />
#11
Rennlist Member
I prefer the a-pillar mounted gauges since they're in line of sight. No one besides Lo-Tek makes a bolt in 951-specific gauge pod so that is probably the best route to go. If I had to choose, I'd choose boost and oil temp.
#12
Race Director
"I think the general consensus is that teeing into the pressure line going to the KLR (under the passenger side of the dashboard) is the easiest route (no need to pass through the firewall)."
Yes, this will work.. most of the time. If you're using our MAP kit, I suggest keeping the numbers of Tees and lengths of plumbing as short as possible. Only use hard-plastic lines to go to the boost-gauge. Even better for the MAP-sensor, is to run the boost-gauge out the big rubber grommet, through the wiring-harness and T into the other banjo-bolt on the intake manifold. The one that's suppying boost/vacuum to the FPR and fuel-dampener.
Yes, this will work.. most of the time. If you're using our MAP kit, I suggest keeping the numbers of Tees and lengths of plumbing as short as possible. Only use hard-plastic lines to go to the boost-gauge. Even better for the MAP-sensor, is to run the boost-gauge out the big rubber grommet, through the wiring-harness and T into the other banjo-bolt on the intake manifold. The one that's suppying boost/vacuum to the FPR and fuel-dampener.
#13
Instructor
Join Date: Oct 2002
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Hi,
I use the Lo-tek 2 pillar gauge pod. The meters I use for this pillar is Greddy 52 mm electronical Boost and E.G.T meters. They fit great.
It´s a shame that there are not a 60 mm gauge pod available. Because if You wan´t warning meters thats the only size that are available.
If You don´t need a gauge pod and just want warning meters look at Defi meters, the best meters on the market and the looks of them is amazing.
There is several companys that offers reliable meters and good looking meters. Check out HKS, Apexi, Greddy, Blitz and Defi.
Regards
Johan
I use the Lo-tek 2 pillar gauge pod. The meters I use for this pillar is Greddy 52 mm electronical Boost and E.G.T meters. They fit great.
It´s a shame that there are not a 60 mm gauge pod available. Because if You wan´t warning meters thats the only size that are available.
If You don´t need a gauge pod and just want warning meters look at Defi meters, the best meters on the market and the looks of them is amazing.
There is several companys that offers reliable meters and good looking meters. Check out HKS, Apexi, Greddy, Blitz and Defi.
Regards
Johan
#15
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<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/tee1.JPG" target="_blank">tee pic</a>
installed
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/tee2.JPG" target="_blank">on the klr line</a>
Jason
installed
<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/tee2.JPG" target="_blank">on the klr line</a>
Jason