spanky

Last yr I had a simlar no start no spark, no tach issure on my 87 and found the KLR wire/pin harness conn that sends a signal frm the KLR to to the DME ignt pin/wire had broken. It took awhile to find this, had to test each wire/ pin conn on both the DME and the KLR box's. Check and then recheck each and every wire/ pin conn for both the DME and the KLR units. Good luck with this.

FRporscheman

I tried the magnet, and it worked. I put one ~5mmx5mmx2mm piece of Nd magnet right next to the trigger setscrew, cranked it, and it started, but ran terribly, smoked, and any throttle would kill it. But hey, it started! HAHA, I guess that means the problem was indeed the triggering of the sensor. So I turned it off and looked for the magnet, it had slid like 60 degrees away, I guess that's why it was smoking. 60 degrees of retard can't be good.

I took the magnet out, took the bracket out, filed the bottom of the bracket for clearance, filed the slotted hole to be longer, all so I could swing the bracket as low as possible. My measurements show that the ref sensor should be about 2mm from what's left of the setscrew. I added one shim to the speed sensor, which my measurements show is now 1mm from the ring gear. It started right up and ran like normal!

I drove around town, and as soon as I got back home, it backfired and died, now there is no tach bounce, again.

I guess I start from square 1 tomorrow.

Thanks Spanky, I'll check that tomorrow.

FRporscheman

Well, I found the problem. One of the little spring plates on the side of the pressure plate broke, swung out, and wreaked havoc. (A chunk of aluminum broke off next to the tdc inspection hole in the bellhousing, destroyed the trigger setscrew, and killed 2 ref sensors.)

The ref sensor (my brand new one) ate ****, its copper guts were all over the place and I had to fish out the shiny metal tip. It even managed to hit the speed sensor (rear one) but thankfully that one still works, just a little banged up.

We took out the starter and through that hole we were able to break off that flailing piece. I put in an old but good sensor and it fired right up (again). I think I'm going to have to do a clutch job and replace the setscrew, the mangled sensor bracket, and the PP (at least).

I guess that explains why the clutch was so stiff. I'm amazed I was able to think of all those tricks to get this damn thing running, so at least we can move it around until we have time for the clutch job.

piperporsche180944

I had a similar issue where I wasnt getting power to my DME/KLR, Tach, WBO2 and Piggyback. None of the factory gauges would work either. It ended up being a shorted out wire within the ignition. When I used a jumper in different configurations some of the parts would power up but the car would not start.

FRporscheman

That sucks! But a lot easier and cheaper to fix than a clutch job
Well I'd like to thank everyone for their help in tracking down this gremlin. I don't know if I'd have the ***** to own a 944 without rennlist.

F18Rep

Its kinda half-*** but a small nut epoxied over the remaining stub of the setscrew might work and hold. You could completely cover the nut (a lot of adhesion surface) in epoxy and still maintain its magnetic properties. I think I would try it and just red-line the engine in the driveway as a test. If it works, you're a genius. I would be open to a lot of things before putting $2000 clutch work in a $5000 car.

Building on a budget is not a challenge, it is THE challenge....Bruce

FRporscheman

Truer words were never spoken.

It's not even a $5000 car, more like half of that, and it's destined to be a DE car, so we really want to keep the costs down. But I just don't trust that PP at all. If that spring plate broke, it must be old and ready to keep on breaking.

The epoxied nut was going to be out next attempt, but so far the lowered bracket and shimmed rear sensor is working. i hope this never happens to anybody else, but if it does, I hope this thread offers some helpful ideas. What a stupid, miserable problem to have.