yikes! waaaay rich
08-05-2003, 03:28 AM
#61
Burning Brakes
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An update...
(Just to finally close this chapter, and Thanks dmoffit for the pipes)
I replaced the cats, cause I thought maybe they were melted from running rich and causing too much exhaust pressure. It didnt help.
(I had the test pipe laying around anyway... so this gave me an excuse)
Then I finally gave in a sent danno and email and got my problem solved for a little over $200 with some new chips. With the new chips the curve is much much better!
Thanks Danno!
(Just to finally close this chapter, and Thanks dmoffit for the pipes)
I replaced the cats, cause I thought maybe they were melted from running rich and causing too much exhaust pressure. It didnt help.
(I had the test pipe laying around anyway... so this gave me an excuse)
Then I finally gave in a sent danno and email and got my problem solved for a little over $200 with some new chips. With the new chips the curve is much much better!
Thanks Danno!
08-06-2003, 05:53 AM
#63
Rennlist Member
well,since you lost the problem it jumped over to me.i fixed all the pesky vac lines(i had like 3 hoses disconnected!!!!) and now my boost is real steady and ~12psi,wont try 16psi(as stated by derrek@huntley) for a while(running a mpg test between recirc vs. vent).the car runs alot better at boost whit all the lines connected but my a/f gauge still shows rich(even when recirulating also).what could this be?im on the brink of getting chips already.danno?fast951? TIA
08-06-2003, 06:43 AM
#64
Drifting
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Shorty, using 16psi chips at 12psi boost is probably the biggest reason for your engine running rich at the moment...
The engine management on our cars can't get actual air flow numbers when you go WOT, since the barn-door AFM meter goes wide open almost immediately. So the whole system then just ignores both air flow signal and o2 signal and feeds fuel according to what's burned on the chips.... and what you currently have there is meant for 16 psi of boost (quite a lot of air), and you're only feeding 12 psi (not that much air)... so it's too rich.
I'm not very good at explaining this stuff even though I thought I had it figured out
Maybe somebody else could clarify?
The engine management on our cars can't get actual air flow numbers when you go WOT, since the barn-door AFM meter goes wide open almost immediately. So the whole system then just ignores both air flow signal and o2 signal and feeds fuel according to what's burned on the chips.... and what you currently have there is meant for 16 psi of boost (quite a lot of air), and you're only feeding 12 psi (not that much air)... so it's too rich.
I'm not very good at explaining this stuff even though I thought I had it figured out
Maybe somebody else could clarify?
08-06-2003, 06:46 AM
#65
Rennlist Member
i have an LBE how can i set it at 16psi?how many threads or MMs?thanx for the info Sami,i just fixed the leaks 2day never really tested it @16psi yet.will do 2marrow
08-07-2003, 03:44 AM
#67
Race Director
"i have an LBE how can i set it at 16psi?how many threads or MMs?thanx for the info Sami,i just fixed the leaks 2day never really tested it @16psi yet.will do 2marrow"
Use a boost-gauge, not threads to measure your boost. Slowly turn in the adjuster on the LBE, like 1 turn at a time and see what max-boost you hit in 4th/5th gears. Then re-adjust as necessary until the gauge just hits 15-16psi. Most likely it'll drop 2-3psi in the upper-RPMs, which will save you from going too lean.
Use a boost-gauge, not threads to measure your boost. Slowly turn in the adjuster on the LBE, like 1 turn at a time and see what max-boost you hit in 4th/5th gears. Then re-adjust as necessary until the gauge just hits 15-16psi. Most likely it'll drop 2-3psi in the upper-RPMs, which will save you from going too lean.