boerge

Picked up new car bought from JohnTorg.
Started right up and idled perfect with fresh installed M-Tune.
Put into first, clutch pedal does not come back up the last 1/3 of travel, until a few seconds later, with a small "clonk", indicating that pedal is now back in normal position. Some whining can be heard from pedal area when operating pedal.
30 minutes later, pedal does not come back the last 1/3, and more or less sticks close to the floor, now operating on a 1/3 or less of normal clutch pedal travel, not giving the very best feedback. Also now clutch slips as soon as boost hit, where I immediately let off.
Drive the car home in this condition. Clutch operates, but very short travel and slips.

Is this the master cylinder that needs to be renewed, and/or slave, or could this maybe be resolved with some bleeding?

Any advice would be helpful.

Darwantae951

I would first inspect everything for signs of leakage (Altho leaking cylinders generally cause the pedal to go the floor and stay unexpectedly). Then try giving it a good bleed.

boerge

Update: I cannot see any leaks, but I was able to pull the clutch pedal back out manually, and after that it seemed to get correct travel and operation again, but still the last 1/3 of travel as I let go of the pedal, it hesistates, but eventually get fully backed out.
Is it correct to think that a repalcement of the mastercylinder will do the trick? I planned to change out slave and MC, but now I think I'll stick to the MC.

Van

There's air in the line. Bleed it again.

Willard Bridgham 3

+5..........

I park my car in the winter and every spring when I first drive it, the pedal goes to the floor. I pull the pedal up by hand and bleed the brakes and the problem is gone for the summer.

Ronin-951

Dont like the clutch slipping issue, hopfully it's a Slave Cylinder leak problem, ... you need to pull it out and have a look. IMO you should replace the Master and Slave cylinders as a pair, newfound pressure tends to blow the seals out of the oldest part. Bleeding these bad boys is kinda difficult, the high line between the cylinders can hold the air unless you have alot of flow, most people use some type of Motive Bleeder to saturate the system and carry out the air from that high line. I have used a 'Saddle Tap Valve' in the upper line to connect to my hand Vac pump which will then pull all the air out in seconds.

User 52121

Someone posted a parts listing to swap out the hard line between the master/slave with a flexible braided hose. That made it possible to hook everything up on the top side of the engine bay, bleed the system, and then just fish the slave down between the bell housing and firewall when done (which isn't possible with the OE hard line.)

I'm at work and don't have the URL handy (pretty sure I have it bookmarked at home.) Do a search, it should come up.

kdorsey

Question: does the pressurized master cylinder provide the pedal return power? IOW, does the clutch pedal snap forward when pressed and stay with a non-pressurized master cylinder? So once the system is completely bled, will the normal return come back? Just need to confirm.

M758

Same here for my Turbo S, except I don't bleed the brakes. I will pop it back with my foot if needed and pump it until it comes back to normal. I suspect some sort of leak, but it only happens after a month or more of sitting. When I daily drive it the cluch pedal works fine. One day I will trace down the real issue.

second wind

Hello Van......my pedal stayed down (1989 944 turbo) for a couple of days then came back up. Fluid could be really old. What fluid do you like? No visible leaks and trying to avoid expensive repair.....you sound very convinced it is just air in the line......please share more if you can....thank you very much.
gg

smkn951

i just had the same issue a couple months back. ended up replacing both clutch MC and slave. bled is so many times, went through a quart and finally decided the the mc was out. didn't want to take a chance so i also did the slave cylinder.

Humboldtgrin

second wind

Thank you Humboldgrin.....I don't recall mentioning my clutch slipping or making noise....it does not do either....but the pedal did stay all the way down for a few days and somehow corrected itself. Today I decided to replace the clutch slave and master and not try to do a bandaid by way of just bleeding. Best to fix it correctly the first time. Thank you again.
gg

Dan Martinic

FYI after opening the system to change the slave, I found it pretty easy to bleed the clutch with just a Motive pressure bleeder on top, once I got my son to sit in and depress the pedal a couple times during the process. Not sure why, but that stiffened the pedal right up

second wind

Thank you Dan...did you change the master as well or only the slave? Your opinion on doing only one or both? Thank you again...
gg