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HR Stage II turbo & Stage III MAF new install problems

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Old 07-19-2002, 05:09 PM
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Leftturn
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Post HR Stage II turbo & Stage III MAF new install problems

I'm brand new to this forum (although I've been lurking for quite a while). I have problems with the subject installation.

Long story short:

1987 951 with HR stage II turbo and stage III MAF (ARC2/ARM1, Hard pipes, Autothority Stage II chips, new cam belt. I finally got everything installed last night. The car was running, had the ARM1 doing it's dithering thing, ARC2 settings were at 9:30 1:30 9:00 and 1:30. Idled great, good throttle response. I made a short run down the boulevard off boost and parked it happy. This morning it wouldn't start (had planned on a ARC2 tuning run down I95).

Plenty of fuel (plugs wet/fouled. replaced them). Good spark at #4 plug.

I called Derrek and he said it was probably too lean even though I smelled fuel and the plugs were wet. I fattened it up anyway to no avail.

I'm totally frustrated. This has been a marathon ordeal from conception through ordering/delivery and install. I thought I had it whipped last night and now this. Pass the dynamite please!
Old 07-19-2002, 06:55 PM
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special tool
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Did you put that cam belt on?
Old 07-19-2002, 07:30 PM
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Leftturn
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No. It was done by someone much more qualified than me.
Old 07-19-2002, 11:21 PM
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Bri Bro
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Check the cam and engine timing marks. Might also check the reference sensor plug but I think you would not get spark if it was disconnected.
Old 07-20-2002, 12:00 AM
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Leftturn
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Thanks Brian. After sleeping on it for a while, I came to the same conclusion that it must be the timing.
Old 07-20-2002, 12:04 AM
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John Anderson
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When your cranking tyhe ignition, does the ACRII stay lit up? I've seen many with this problem when they install, most of the time, they have the ARCII wired to a 12 volt source that gets shut off as the car is cranking, this means no juice to the ACRII untill the engine is running. You can see the problem here :-)

And yes, even wired this way, the car can be started by light feathering of the gas pedal when cranking.

YOu might want to also check your crank triggers. TRhey are loacted on the back of the intake manifold, by the fire wall, two rectangular plugs. be sure they are plugged in tight. If they are not, you will turn over all day with out a signal to spark.

YOu might also want to check your ignition relay, and your DME relay.

One last thing to check...ALL of your vacuum and intercooler connections. If you blow an IC pipe, your not going to start the car. Don't just look at them either...give them a good pulling, try to jerk them out of the car.

Be sure you MAF connection is good also :-)

Hope these help a little.
Old 07-20-2002, 12:05 AM
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John Anderson
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sorry for the typos, can't control my fingers when they start to fly :-)
Old 07-20-2002, 09:33 AM
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John,
Thanks for the tips. The ARM1 stays lit while attempting to crank. It goes to the first green light and then back to double yellow when when I stop cranking and to red when the key is turned off.

I'll check out the other things mentioned.

Here's a tip for everyone. Don't start building a house at the same time you start something major on your car. The package from huntley came in right at the same time I got my site clearance permit. My cup runneth over.
Old 07-21-2002, 07:14 PM
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Danno
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Check your fuel-pressure. The fouled plugs may indicate too much fuel. Try starting with one of the injector plugs disconnected.

Ignition sounds possible. Pull a spark-plug wire and insert a spare plug and ground the outside case to the block. See if there's a spark on this plug when you crank the engine (don't hold wire or touch the plug when you're doing this) .
Old 07-22-2002, 06:00 PM
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[quote]Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>(don't hold wire or touch the plug when you're doing this) .</strong><hr></blockquote>

Hehe. No you don't want to do that. It doesn't feel good. I can laugh about it now...


<img src="graemlins/oops.gif" border="0" alt="[oops]" />
Old 07-24-2002, 03:13 AM
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marksportcts
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And make sure that you don't have any fuel puddles or fuel leaks. When I first started my car last year after the rebuild, I disconnected the wire going to the cap at the perfomance ignintion moudule that is mounted by the brake booster. As I cranked it over, the spark would jump about 1-1.5" to the body from the module, when the fuel line started spraying fuel out. Fortunately it didn't catch fire. Turns out that I forgot to tighted the fuel line.



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