951 Cylinder head removal
07-17-2002, 03:06 PM
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951 Cylinder head removal
Hi Guys:
I'm getting ready to remove the head from my '86 951. It looks quite straight forward, all I'm not certain about is what needs to be done to remove the exhaust manifolds. What is the procedure for doing this?
Are there any instructions available (for the entire head removal job) on the Internet?
Any tips appreciated!
Michael
I'm getting ready to remove the head from my '86 951. It looks quite straight forward, all I'm not certain about is what needs to be done to remove the exhaust manifolds. What is the procedure for doing this?
Are there any instructions available (for the entire head removal job) on the Internet?
Any tips appreciated!
Michael
07-17-2002, 03:27 PM
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Depends on the condition of the studs/bolts. If they are in bad shape I would put a lot of penetrating oil on them and let it sit overnight. With a universal socket adapter you can reach all the bolts where the crossover meets the header. If they snap (which is common for old one) you can you take a punch or long screwdriver and hammer them up. Since my engine compartment is pretty open, I can pull the head with headers still attached. If you cannot, I believe it is a 13MM socket and/or wrench that will remove the bolts. Again, bolts in bad shape could snap or backout the stud.
I have an 89 951 so I am not sure if this is the same for an 86.
Good luck!!
I have an 89 951 so I am not sure if this is the same for an 86.
Good luck!!
07-17-2002, 03:55 PM
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Yup.. take the headers off with the head. Just unbolt the 6 bolts on the header flanges to the crossover point. Lift the head straight off, and then pull towards you to clear the flanges from the block.
07-17-2002, 08:21 PM
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If you still need more clearance, jacking the left side of the engine/oilpan a small amount can help. Make sure you use a block of wood or something similar between the engine and the jack.
07-18-2002, 03:47 AM
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This is what I posted to a thread about this a while ago. Its a cut and past job, just use what you need :-)
"I assume you have the intake manifold off, since you mentioned that you have stripped your motor to the block...if so, then...
remove the timing belt from the cam gear, if you have an auto tension car, then loosen the two 13mm nuts on the front of the autotensioner, and push downward on the part of the tensioner that holds the tension sprocket, this will collaps the tensioner, while holding the tension in the collapsed position, ( I use a big bar for this pushing and holding method) tighten the top 13mm nut you loosened. This will not keep the tensioner collaped, and allow you to slide the belt off the pully.
Remove the rotor and cap assembly, this is pretty tight work on the bottom screw that holds the cap on. The top screw is easy to get at, the bottom is tough, I used to use a shorty screw driver, then I just bought a cheap flat head, put a 90 degree bend in it, and that made the job a lot easier :-)
Once you have the cap off, you will need to pull the rotor off, this is attached to the cam with an 8mm bolt, remove the bolt (and sleep with it, you don't want to loose it) and the rotor can be worked off. If it gets sticky, then plan to replace it, and use pliers to work it back and forth while putting outword force on it.
Take the aluminum gear cover off the front of the cam housing, this is held by three 10mm bolts, one is outside on the top left of the cover, the other two are located inside and to the lower drivers side. Use a small slot head to pry it from the rear section of the cover, it will be a little stubborn, but it comes off. Slide the timing belt off the cam gear now.
Remove the two small 10mm bolts that hold the rear section of the cam gear housing to the back of the timing belt cover, these are located bottom drivers side, and to the back.
Pull the hose clamp off the power steering resevoir, and move the resevoir out of your way, you need this space for the removal of the cam house and head. I just move it slightly forward infront of the cam gear area.
Using vise grips, clamp the ends of the water lines feeding the hardpipe that runs the length of the cam housing over the headers. Remove the hose clamps on either side and slide the hoses off.
On the top/rear/drivers side of the head, you will see the fitting for the water heater. Its easier to just remove the hose that fits on the end of the fitting, some remove the fitting, but its a little tight for that.
Remove the water fitting for the bleed bolt on the front/drivers side of the head, its heald by a series of 6mm allen socket bolts. The hard pipe that is connected to that fitting will also need to be removed to clear the head. Its held it place at the bend by a 10mm bolt attatched to the engine lift bracket.
NOw, using an 8mm allen socket, take the cam housing plugs out, these are the big aluminum plugs on the top of the housing. You can toss the aluminum washers, you get new ones with your head gasget kit.
Using a long 6mm allen socket (snap on), pull the allen bolts that hold the cam housing to the head. I start in the middle and work my way oput slowly. I lossen them all at first, then lossen each one in order (your order, just do it evenly), repeat this untill there is no tension on any of the bolts. The cam hosing will pop up on its own when your getting close to the end of the process.
Gently lift the cam housing up and tilt it towards the passenger side at the same time, this will keep the lifters from falling out and rolling all over your floor. I try to use as swift a motion as possible for this operation. If you drop a few lifters don't panic, but try to keep them in the same order as they are set in the housing originally.
At this point you should have a head looking at you, with oil running down the side of your block (this oil will soak inot the header lining and will smoke like hell on start up when your done, don't worry, but start the car outside of your garage)
Take the bolts out of the header crossover flanges (collector), this allows you to pull the head and the headers at the same time, many hours of cussing are saved this way!@^$#^^*^*^%$!!!!!! If one or two bolts are stubborn and you cant free them from the flange due to tension at the junction, dont worry, leave them be, when you loosen the head, the tension will leave, and you can pluck themn out then.
NOw, loosen the head nuts, I don't know how to do a diagram here, so I'll trust someon will, or that you might already know the pattern :-)
Lift the head out, it might need a bit of prying at the pry points, then gently work it with the headers attatched, until it comes out, its not that tough.
I hope that I did not miss much here, but I'm sure the cllective on this list will fill in the blanks for you if needed :-)"
I hope this helps a little.
Take Care!
"I assume you have the intake manifold off, since you mentioned that you have stripped your motor to the block...if so, then...
remove the timing belt from the cam gear, if you have an auto tension car, then loosen the two 13mm nuts on the front of the autotensioner, and push downward on the part of the tensioner that holds the tension sprocket, this will collaps the tensioner, while holding the tension in the collapsed position, ( I use a big bar for this pushing and holding method) tighten the top 13mm nut you loosened. This will not keep the tensioner collaped, and allow you to slide the belt off the pully.
Remove the rotor and cap assembly, this is pretty tight work on the bottom screw that holds the cap on. The top screw is easy to get at, the bottom is tough, I used to use a shorty screw driver, then I just bought a cheap flat head, put a 90 degree bend in it, and that made the job a lot easier :-)
Once you have the cap off, you will need to pull the rotor off, this is attached to the cam with an 8mm bolt, remove the bolt (and sleep with it, you don't want to loose it) and the rotor can be worked off. If it gets sticky, then plan to replace it, and use pliers to work it back and forth while putting outword force on it.
Take the aluminum gear cover off the front of the cam housing, this is held by three 10mm bolts, one is outside on the top left of the cover, the other two are located inside and to the lower drivers side. Use a small slot head to pry it from the rear section of the cover, it will be a little stubborn, but it comes off. Slide the timing belt off the cam gear now.
Remove the two small 10mm bolts that hold the rear section of the cam gear housing to the back of the timing belt cover, these are located bottom drivers side, and to the back.
Pull the hose clamp off the power steering resevoir, and move the resevoir out of your way, you need this space for the removal of the cam house and head. I just move it slightly forward infront of the cam gear area.
Using vise grips, clamp the ends of the water lines feeding the hardpipe that runs the length of the cam housing over the headers. Remove the hose clamps on either side and slide the hoses off.
On the top/rear/drivers side of the head, you will see the fitting for the water heater. Its easier to just remove the hose that fits on the end of the fitting, some remove the fitting, but its a little tight for that.
Remove the water fitting for the bleed bolt on the front/drivers side of the head, its heald by a series of 6mm allen socket bolts. The hard pipe that is connected to that fitting will also need to be removed to clear the head. Its held it place at the bend by a 10mm bolt attatched to the engine lift bracket.
NOw, using an 8mm allen socket, take the cam housing plugs out, these are the big aluminum plugs on the top of the housing. You can toss the aluminum washers, you get new ones with your head gasget kit.
Using a long 6mm allen socket (snap on), pull the allen bolts that hold the cam housing to the head. I start in the middle and work my way oput slowly. I lossen them all at first, then lossen each one in order (your order, just do it evenly), repeat this untill there is no tension on any of the bolts. The cam hosing will pop up on its own when your getting close to the end of the process.
Gently lift the cam housing up and tilt it towards the passenger side at the same time, this will keep the lifters from falling out and rolling all over your floor. I try to use as swift a motion as possible for this operation. If you drop a few lifters don't panic, but try to keep them in the same order as they are set in the housing originally.
At this point you should have a head looking at you, with oil running down the side of your block (this oil will soak inot the header lining and will smoke like hell on start up when your done, don't worry, but start the car outside of your garage)
Take the bolts out of the header crossover flanges (collector), this allows you to pull the head and the headers at the same time, many hours of cussing are saved this way!@^$#^^*^*^%$!!!!!! If one or two bolts are stubborn and you cant free them from the flange due to tension at the junction, dont worry, leave them be, when you loosen the head, the tension will leave, and you can pluck themn out then.
NOw, loosen the head nuts, I don't know how to do a diagram here, so I'll trust someon will, or that you might already know the pattern :-)
Lift the head out, it might need a bit of prying at the pry points, then gently work it with the headers attatched, until it comes out, its not that tough.
I hope that I did not miss much here, but I'm sure the cllective on this list will fill in the blanks for you if needed :-)"
I hope this helps a little.
Take Care!
