Here is what was said in an e-mail I recieved from Danno:

Hello all,

I've found an error in our installation instructions for the '88+ 951 cars with 28-pin chips. The error was with the chip-map selection using the region-coding plug (got them reversed) Here is the corrected instructions for version-6 chips and above:

The FQS switch adjusts as follows:

FQS INJ IGNTION
---------------------------------------------------
#0-stk 34.6lb 0
#1 55.0lb 0
#2 65.0b 0
#3 75.0lb 0
#4 34.6lb 2.0 degrees retard
#5 55.0lb 2.0 degrees retard
#6 65.0lb 2.0 degrees retard
#7 75.0lb 2.0 degrees retard

There is a two-wire connector about 150cm away from the DME connector called the region-coding plug. On the '88+ 28-pin chip cars, make sure that the CONNECTOR IS OPEN (no plug installed).This selects the ignition setting for street-gas and ignition. The supplied jumper wire can be used to short this connector and selects the ADVANCED ignition map which is for race-gas only.

Here's the progression of ignition timings you can use:

PLUG-OFF + FQS#0 = standard GURU optimized ignition map 15-18psi (typically 1-10 degrees more than stock)
PLUG-ON + FQS#0 = +4.0 degrees ignition advance (15-18psi on 100-octane race-gas)
PLUG-ON + FQS#4 = +2.0 degrees ignition advance (15-18psi on 96-octane 50/50 pump/race gas mix)
PLUG-OFF + FQS#4 = -2.0 degrees ignition retard for 18-20psi on pump-gas, 20-23psi on race gas

You can substitute FQS#0&4 with 1&5 or 2&6 for whatever size injectors you're using.

When I asked for clarification this is the reply:

Hello Eric,

Yes you have the '88+ 28-pin DME chip in your car. I've got a new version-8 update coming to you. Please send back your old chip with the unused FPR.

The region-coding plug is considered 'shorted' if it's 'ON'. So you should have it removed for street-gas. With race-gas and the higher ignition selected, you should be able to notice an improvement. Just barely, but 10-15hp is barely noticeable.

Happy Holidays! -danno

 

I have a question regarding the differences between the first 4 FQS settings and the last 4. What differences would be expected between the regular map and 2 degrees of retard? (Throttle response, power, etc.) Why the additional retard for 18-20 psi? I have my FQS currently set at position #1. I'm breaking in a clutch right now and as soon as that is done I will play with the boost. I had planned to go as high as 18 PSI on my K27/8. I plan on doing some dyno pulls this summer and will probably compare different settings. I just don't want to do anything stupid or harmfull so that is why I am asking what risks I am taking. FYI - I run pump gas only.

 

Sorry for the confusion...

"What differences would be expected between the regular map and 2 degrees of retard?"
"Why the additional retard for 18-20 psi?"

The differences are so minor that you will not feel it. However, your combustion-chamber and headgasket will. At higher boost-levels, the air is typically hotter, thus bringing you closer to the edge of detonation. Also a denser mixture (from higher-boost) will also burn faster than a less-dense, lower-boost mixture. Thus as you increase the boost, you want to retard the timing so that the mixture is completely burned and exerting maximum force at about 10-15 degrees ATDC. Having it occur before that, even if you can combat detonation with high-octane, will not result in more power because you'll just be compressing the piston and con-rods instead of spinning the crank around.

SoloRacer's pointed out a mistake and correct I made last year. Some of you may still have the earlier instructions. Here's a synopsis on the function of the region-coding plug:

'86-87 24-pin DME: no difference with it ON or OFF
'88+ 28-pin DME: ON selects race-gas ignition, OFF picks street-gas

Also notice that the race-gas setting is only good to 18psi. If you run more than that, select the retarded maps even with race-gas.

I'm thinking about removing the race-gas ignition setting altogether to reduce confusion over the region-coding plug. It's only worth about 10hp max but can cause severe problems if inadvertently left in the race-gas setting when you put in pump-gas. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>I'm thinking about removing the race-gas ignition setting altogether to reduce confusion over the region-coding plug. It's only worth about 10hp max but can cause severe problems if inadvertently left in the race-gas setting when you put in pump-gas. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Sounds like the folks with the 88+ setup should definitely put a toggle switch into the circuit to make it easy to move between the two settings.

Ron