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Gonna pull the engine, what to do WIAI?

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Old 07-09-2011, 11:38 PM
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Crackership
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Default Gonna pull the engine, what to do WIAI?

So, as some of you know, I recently had a bit of an engine fire. After further inspection, I can say for sure that it was caused by something leaking.

I say "something" leaking, because the only fluids I can rule out are fuel (because I can find no fuel leaks) and coolant (also, no coolant leaks.. but also not exactly flammable)

There are definitely oil and PS leaks. Substantial ones.

Before I go any further, I really want to thank everyone who has helped me out with this car so far, specifically John Koa Wood, Ramius665(Aaron), John @ Vitesse and Jeff N. for their exceptional levels of assistance. Thank you all very much!

Ok, back to the task at hand:

What I'm planning to do is, reseal the engine and PS system, and handle any wise WIAI's, as well as repair the fire damage (there really doesn't seem to be all that much). But I really want to make sure I've got this well planned out before I proceed. I'd consider myself a moderately experienced mechanic, but I strongly believe that the wisdom of an individual is rarely equal to that of a community.

If there is something you think is obvious, and I probably already know, I'd rather you assume I don't... saying it can't hurt, not saying it certainly could.

Ok, the PS system I think I have pretty well handled, I've resealed about a half-dozen racks, and about as many pumps. And I've got a great hydraulic shop locally to rebuild my lines... I think I'm covered there.

The engine resealing and WIAI's are where my uncertainties come in.

I suppose it's rather important to have some info on the car to answer some of the following questions, so:

'86 951 ~135k Miles
Street driven, most of the time it's my daily except in terrible weather (by WA standards).
I might do some lapping days occasionally... haven't in this car yet, but I might.

Lightly modded:
Vitesse MAF, chip
83# injectors
3 bar FPR
3" exhaust from dp
Tial 38mm WG
LR MBC
k26/6 @ ~16psi (I rarely see over 15, but the MBC is set at ~16)

Overall goals:
Either a K27/6 or some more modern equivalent
300 or so rwhp with equal or greater tq and a lot of area under the curve
As reliable as a modded 951 can get.
Basically, a great road car with the ability to be entertaining at the occasional lapping day.

Not all of the above goals can be achieved at this point ($$$ I don't have), but I'd really rather not skip anything that may hinder any of those goals at a later time, or skip anything that will require re-work later.

so here are my questions:

First of all, does the Victor Reinz block seal kit contain all the seals and gaskets I will need for the block? Specifically, I'm concerned about having the appropriate seals/gaskets/crush rings for the OPRV, oil thermostat, oil cooler lines, turbo drain, balance shafts, AOS...? anything else I should have?

Also, I already have an oil pan gasket, but it seems like I'll be close to the cost of the kit with the rest of the parts I need... perhaps I'm looking at stuff I don't need? In my experience with seal "kits" is there's usually something you wind up not using...

Second, I have a Victor Reinz head kit that I've scavenged a few things from, but it's mostly complete. Is there anything else I should make sure to have before I dig into the head (other than the stuff that's been used previously)?

I'm planning to replace rod bearings, but should I worry about mains and rings at this point? I think probably, but I'm looking for more opinions.

Anything else that is wise while I have the block/head apart?

Also, I really don't want to resurrect the "which head gasket is better" debate here, but what I would like opinions on is, with the above goals and aspirations in mind, is something other than the stock HG warranted?

I'll be replacing all coolant hoses, WP and thermostat are new-ish (less than 10k miles). Anything else in the cooling system that I should examine?

I'll be replacing the fuel lines. They look fine, but all the fuel line failures (and resulting fires) I've seen have pretty well convinced me that they should not be taken for granted.
Planning to do the LR SS ones... Other suggestions?

I'm considering having the exhaust manifold and X-over pipe ceramic coated while I have them off... Do you think this is a worthy expenditure on a tight budget?

Also, I'll be replacing the rear main seal, and I'm assuming the clutch ***'y and flywheel must come off to facilitate that(?). That said, I have no reason to believe that the clutch is badly worn, but would you recommend a replacement anyway? If so, what clutch would be appropriate, all things considered? PP too??
Furthermore, I'm assuming, since all the clutch kits I see for sale seem to come with new bolts that the flywheel/PP bolts are torque-to-yield, and thus must be replaced if loosened... correct?


I know that a lot of these questions can be answered piecemeal by searching, and I've done a lot of that. I'm just hoping this will help me get a better view of the big picture as it pertains more directly to my car...

Thanks in advance,
-Dave

Last edited by Crackership; 07-10-2011 at 12:19 AM.
Old 07-10-2011, 01:08 AM
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zerMATT951
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I'm doing a bunch of WIAI items on my car, so you might check out my re-assembly thread for some ideas if you haven't seen it already. Not that I'm an expert by any means, but I've spent 5 years thinking about all of thape things that I'm *just now* doing, so I think I've picked up quite a few little tricks along the way.

That said, here are some of the less common items that you may not have thought of. They may not fit into your budget, but I think they are worth considering:

1. Have LR cut your crossover in two... But make sure you start with a factory 2-piece so you end up with a 3-pieces so that future oil pan or clutch work will be simplified.

2. Consider the LR steam vent kit and their radiator drain valve.

3. Replace any questionable harness sections, especially your injector harness. LR has a very high quality inj harness with or without the knock sensor harnes.

4. I like Lart's oil cooler lines, so of you don't already have lower-cost rebuild options, you might look at a set of those.

5. LR suggests 2 o-rings on the dipstick tube... can't hurt.

Sounds like you've already got most of the major stuff mapped out, and there are many more-experienced guys on the list to help steer you with suggestions for that stuff so I'll keep quiet so I don't look foolish .

Oh, and on the ceramic coating question, I would definitely do the crossover and header (if aftermarket). Other than that, you might do the hot side housing if you think you might keep that turbo for a little while. I did several other bits, most of which were form cosmetic purposes only. I used Jet Hot for that reason too, and their quick turn-around. If you have a month to kill and want the best, go with the white stuff from PA that the name is escaping me right now...

Good luck!
Old 07-10-2011, 01:25 AM
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Crackership
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Originally Posted by zerMATT951
1. Have LR cut your crossover in two... But make sure you start with a factory 2-piece so you end up with a 3-pieces so that future oil pan or clutch work will be simplified.
I just don't think it'll fit into the budget, would be nice though... I have the 1-piece, so I'd have to get a 2-piece first...

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
2. Consider the LR steam vent kit and their radiator drain valve.
Good call, I had been considering these, and then forgot about them... (my memory apparently thinks I'm getting old... )

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
3. Replace any questionable harness sections, especially your injector harness. LR has a very high quality inj harness with or without the knock sensor harnes.
Already have the injector harness handled (thanks Aaron). And I'll definitely be going through the rest of the harness.

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
4. I like Lart's oil cooler lines, so of you don't already have lower-cost rebuild options, you might look at a set of those.
I like Lart's oil cooler lines too, but I discovered them after getting my stock ones rebuilt... oh well.

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
5. LR suggests 2 o-rings on the dipstick tube... can't hurt.
Will do. Thanks!

Originally Posted by zerMATT951
Oh, and on the ceramic coating question, I would definitely do the crossover and header (if aftermarket).
Good luck!
What if it's a stock header? Aftermarket is just too much $$$, I'm sure they're great, but I just can't justify the expense at this time...

Thanks for the input!
Old 07-10-2011, 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Crackership
What if it's a stock header? Aftermarket is just too much $$$, I'm sure they're great, but I just can't justify the expense
If your stock header is in good shape, just leave it as-is. Aftermarket is very expensive and will not give much if any additional performance, so it's not an option for a tight budget.

On the other hand, if your flange or joint welds have those infamous cracks, you will want to at least try to pick up a set without cracks.



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