Hey guys, I have a couple ?s as to what you guys recommend in these areas. First of all I fried my brakes at the track, need new pads, rotors and calipers. What brake system do you guys recommend. I want to put one of the better systems on the car, cause braking is an essential on the track.
Second, I am looking to do a K27 Turbo Package and Mass Air Flow Kit, how much power am I going to be gaining and how much will this cost me after install.
Third I had a lot of body roll and was a little disapointed in my suspension so I am looking to upgrade to a very aggressive track suspension, what do you guys recommend and how much?
Here is a background of the car, its an 89 Turbo S, with Ported/polished heads, Autothority Chip, Boost Controller, Fab Speed Exhaust, with removed cat and .comp Tires Thanks for you help guys, i will keep you updated on the transformation from street beast to track monster.

 

Probably best to do a search on MAP / MAF / K27 / Garret / brake upgrades etc. There's a ton of stuff available, you'll just have to figure out some good keywords to find it.....

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

If you stay with stock brake components, I'm a big fan of just upgrading the pads to Pagid Blacks and swapping to the 33 vlave.

If you upgrade, the Big reds will bolt on without adapters. Some people move to a more aggressive prop valve than the 33 with that setup. That should be the most effective and easy brake upgrade path.

I haven't gone down the MAF/MAP/Turbo upgrade path yet but there's a lot of buzz around the guru racing map kit.

 

[quote]Originally posted by ninefiveone:
I haven't gone down the MAF/MAP/Turbo upgrade path yet but there's a lot of buzz around the guru racing map kit<hr></blockquote>

Yeh! Check it out:

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=18&t=003091" target="_blank">Turbo Upgrade Stuff</a>

The guru 364...can you say 450 HP for $2900?! Not to make too too big a deal of it yet but it's got my vote! The MAP Stage II looks to be a real goodie too!

 

What's up Hugh!

 

I spoke to Windward performance and they said with a Mass Air Flow Kit, K27 Turbo upgrade and bigger injectors I am looking at 100rwhp, is this true? I think it costs about 2400 without install.

 

100 rhwp lol! they want 2400 to downgrade you from stock?

(fingers crossed I am not revealing my n00bness here - or maybe u meant +100 rhwp heh heh)

 

Hey Simpson!

 

[quote] I spoke to Windward performance and they said with a Mass Air Flow Kit, K27 Turbo upgrade and bigger injectors I am looking at 100rwhp, is this true? I think it costs about 2400 without install. <hr></blockquote>
Having gone through a similar street to track evolution myself, I'll give you the benefit of hindsight. I hope it's useful. Your car has plenty of power (more than you can use at this point in your driving career I'll venture). Take that $2400 and get some good rotors/pads and the 33 proportioning valve. You've got kickass brakes already. Get the 968 M030 swaybar set (30mm front, 22mm adj. rear) and some safety equipment (seats, harnesses, extinguisher, etc) if you haven't already. If you want to spend more, buy some wide freakin' wheels (9's and 10's maybe) and track rubber to boot. Go out and drive your butt off. When your're faster than your car, buy the Guru MAP kit for about $1200 and get that extra 100 rwhp. Just my two cents. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

I agree with Russ's excellent advise.

 

I'm kind of surprised you fried your brakes, Our monster units are pretty "fry" proof. As for the brakes, just get a new set of rotors, (drilled or slotted your call).. I think the cryo treatment is over the top, it costs 2x what normal rotors cost. Get some track pads, (I use Hawk Blues) and you will need to push your eyeballs back into the sockets after a hard stop, and they'll go all week with no problems. You'll want to swap out the pads to go back to street, those pads are WAY to agressive for street. I second the 968 MO30 sway bar call, it's on my shopping list for spring. I went to camberplates to get the -3 degrees my Hoosier rubber needed. If $$$ isn't that big of a deal (?), Hoosier track tires are a fun way to shave several seconds. $700 a set will last 2 weekends, maybe more. Then, of course, you need the track rims.

<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

 

Good advice except, that slapping on a MAP kit isn't going to give you another 100 HP (rear wheel or otherwise).

The MAF sensor doesn't come close to being a restriction... and at 347HP to the crank, is more than capable of controlling the a/f ratio.


Further... a larger turbo, especially the K27/6 turbo will give you a much wider power band than could ever be achieved with a K26/8 turbo.

 

How about getting some brake ducts for the stock brakes? Cheap and effective improvement (track pads, ss lines and super blu fluid too)

 

The MAF in itself doesn't contorl the A/F. The DME, chips, etc. handle the A/F based on inputs.

True a MAF equipped engine can get you to 350 RWHP. It can go even higher. A friend hit 400. However, it didn't last. The problem was keeping the A/F dialed in with changes. He kept the same turbo and went the stand alone route with MAP and makes the same 400 with no problems.

I beleive Danno's MAP kit, chips and MAP sensor, is the better mouse trap in today's plug and play market.

Alan

 

damn you guys know your stuff. thanks a lot for all the info. this is my first experience with a 944 so I am relatively dumb in respect to what there is to do to the car. For those of you who asked about the frying of the brakes, let me explain how bad it really was. I was up at Road America for a two day event with the bmw club and was smoking around the track. Car felt really nice and pulling some very fast lap times for it being the first weekend in this car. My brakes started to fade and it was becoming harder and harder to stop in time. I changed my fluid twice to see if i could help the situation, i was running ATE superblue. As time went on my rotors worpped(sp?) but some of the 944 guys said its not a big deal and to keep driving. well on my second session of the second day i lost my brakes coming into turn 8 at about 100mph. I mean lost them, pedal to the floor and NO braking at all. I pumped a couple times to get some pressure and finally got a little bit. I knew at this point if i put the car into the sand sideways the car would probably roll, so i engine braked a bit got the car down to a speed managable to make the corner, ran the car off the road onto some grass, car then slowed down a bit and I coasted into the pits. When we tried to pull the pads out, we noticed that I had melted them onto my rotors and I was completely metal to metal. keep in mind these were new pads and my mechanic had put new pads on the week before. When i showed him the pad he said that he had never seen a pad end up looking as bad as mine did, he even held on to two of them. It was one Hell of a SCARY experience. This is why i am going to put the best brake system on the car possible. As far as the MAF kit and MAP kit from Guru can someone please explain the difference between these two? Also so some of you guys recommend the K27 and some dont, can i have some reasons for both. As for tires I have a set of practically new Yoko A032 Comp tires on the car now. It is not driven too often on the street, mostly for track use, so my next set of tires will be Hoosiers. I think the suspension, brakes and tires are set for me now, i just need to figure out the engine work i am going to do to make my car move along even faster. once again thanks a lot for all the info, you guys were a big help.