After taking the cylinder head to get a 3 angle valve job and reassembling it back onto the block, the car started with a loud knocking noise and it also slowly overheated. What may have been the issue here?

Some thoughts that could have cause this:
-When removing the camshaft housing some of the lifters fell out of the cam housing and may not have been put in the correct order, does this matter?
-When I reassemble the camshaft housing it was not flesh onto the cylinder head so I just put the bolts in and screwed it on. (forcing it onto the cylinder head) I did align the camgear to the TDC mark before putting the timing belt back on. (The timing shaft belt was not remove.)

Here is a video before the removal:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nykv4iKJHfA


Here is a video after valve job and new headgasket:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYOAWEQ-Xdw

Also during the removal I found an interesting surprise which also answered my question to why the car was not properly responding to acceleration:



Picture of the finished cylinder head back on the car:

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...linderhead.jpg

Any help or ideas will be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU!

 

What's in your airbox? :|

 

I believe it's acorn! Must have been the squirrels!

 

weird.
i think the problem might be when you forced the cam tower on the head. my lifters also fell out but we measured them and put the taller ones for intake and shorter for exhaust

 

What is the wining noise in the pre-valve job video? What prompted the valve job?

 

So the lifters are different sizes? I thought they were all the same. I only found one part number
(928.105.311.06) to the lifter rather than two which. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

It is ideal to have the lifters in their original positions, but not a must, they are hydraulic so will self adjust.

The Cam Tower will not sit flush on the head by itself, the cam lobs I believe for cylinders 2 and 4 are forcing valves open as you torque it down.

Sounds like you now have an exhaust leak and the over heating could be due to the coolant system not being completely bled of air.

Why did you pull the head to begin with?

 

I don't know if it was because it was lacking air from the clog up airbox.

1000 miles after the timing belt was changed it went back to the shop for it's regular tension check up and the mechanic found out that the camgear was loose. He did a leak down test and found that there was a 50% leakage on the first cylinder. He claimed that it was bent valves. So instead of letting him attempt the job I decided to do it myself. Took the head to a machine shop and found out that there was no bent valves although there were build up on the valves which may have caused the valves to stay open. So I decided to get the head resurfaced and get a 3 angle valve job.

 

951Saga: Yes it does sound like an exhaust leak, I will check up on that too. Although if I do rev the car just a bit I will hear the knocking noise. Maybe this video can present a better knocking noise:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0vi5oyqUaQ

 

Always hard to tell via video like this, but it sounds like either an exhaust leak or one loud lifter. Mixing the lifters is not fatal -- they wear with their lobe and bore so best not to move them, but not the end of the world. The cam tower will not sit flat on the head -- you have to draw it down onto the head evenly by tightening the bolts a little at a time so the tower pulls down evenly. Sounds like that's what you did. If it's a loud lifter, it will quiet down after driving it for a a while (it needs to pump back up with oil). If it's an exhaust leak, you will eventually see some black soot marks where the exhaust is getting out -- either at the top or bottom flanges. Based on the video, it sounds more like an exhaust leak. Might be worth loosing all the header nuts and the 6 nuts/bolts at the collector, and then re-tightening them evenly using car to ensure all the flanges are pulling together evenly. Assume you used new seal rings in the collectors and new gaskets at the head, right?

Based on the first video, it sounds like you b/s belt is a bit tight too...

 

Yes I replaced the rings and gaskets. Have anyone tried putting ATF into the motor and have it run for a while to clean out the motor and lifters?

Read a post about someone doing:
https://rennlist.com/rennforums/show...light=Knocking

Seems like a risky task. Lett me know what you guys think or if anyone else have actually attempted this. Thanks.

 

If it's the lifters, they will quiet down after driving it for a little while. Have you driven it yet? They can clatter for 10-15 minutes of gentle driving if they are dry. If it's an exhaust leak, AFT won't help either.

 

Yes drove it down the block and the overheat light came on so I turned the car off and pushed it back home. The noise did sound louder during first start up. It seems a little more quieter after the ride but it still is knocking. Should I be worry about driving the car after fixing the overheating problem?

 

Where are u located? I keep asking people this question. You may have someone around you that can troubleshoot the problem in minutes.
I really think you might have a header leak. Also for the overheating, there's a bolt right in front of the engine that it bleeds the air pretty quick. GL

 

It sounds as both an exhaust leak and noisy lifters. There are a few things that you could check. After you start the car and before it gets too warm, put your hand around the exhaust manifold to see if you feel any exhaust leaks anywhere. Did you test the lifters before you put them in? A collapsed lifter can make a lot of noise. Is the timimg belt aligned correctly? On the overheating problem, assuming that your gauge is working properly, did you bleed the cooling system?