We posted links to 4 videos just received from Dailey showing the difference between a standard oil pump used on a dry sump system and their pump with oil separator being used and the amount of oil foam generated from each set-up.

They had a custom clear oil sump tank made and what you see is something
very enlightening. These videos are not available elsewhere so you're the first to see them. Enjoy!

Links are on our Dry Sump web page after the 3rd picture for the top.

View Here

What made sense to get as our optional upgraded pump we offer is now backed up by visual "see for yourself" proof they work.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words. I'm sold on the improvement! If only money grew on trees...

 

Very interesting video. We always used barnes and aviad pumps on our usac midget, makes me wonder how bad they foamed. I'll have to keep this in mind, at the cost of those motors this is definately something to think about. We've been thinking of building another midget!

 

What kind of oil was used in these tests?

Some have antifoaming additives, some don't.

 

The Dailey pump is the way to go, I have been using them for a while.
The air / oil separator is very important for several reasons – deaerating the oil allows for putting the oil cooler on the send side (from the pump to the tank). This is nicer than putting the cooler on the pressure side of the pump – better to have no restrictions on the feed into the engine. Also the deaeration by the pump means that you don’t have to rely on the traditional round tank with tangential entry to deaerate the oil – you can go with a much smaller and custom shaped tank.

I learned about the Dailey pumps quite a few years ago from a friend of mine that builds high end circle track engine. The typical dry sump pumps had to be rebuilt several times per year (some of these guys race 3 times per week) but the Dailey pumps were going several years without rebuilding.

Nice stuff! BTW – Both the LeMans GTE class winners used Dailey pumps!

 

I run the LR dry sump system with this pump and i'm very happy with it .It's a big investment ,but if you look at what you risk on running a high hp engine without a proper oiling system the advantages are realy clear.When i race my car at the track i do not have to worry about oil starvation ,that alone makes it worth it.Working with Mike and Dave Lindsey on this kind of projects makes things a lot easier.

 

I have the pump as well. Can´t really say that I´ve tested it yet, but the quality is great and I can say that the oil pressure is enough

 

If using the pump with air/oil separator, what size oil tank is required for a 968 with a N/A (for now) motor?

Also, does anyone know of a tank that can fit WITHIN the 968’s engine compartment? Or will the 19x6” 2 gallon silo-shaped Peterson tank fit where the factory charcoal canister is within the fender?

Thanks

 

if you are using a good air/oil separator then you don't need the classic round shaped oil tank. The classic tanks are round to act as an air/oil separator as the incoming oil swirls around the perimeter of the tank.
You could have a tank made in any shape to fit in where you want.

 

Thanks Chris. What’s an optimal location within the engine bay, based on your extensive experience?

What about having a custom tank built and installed where the 968 air filter box is (if I end up using an ITB system&#129303 ? There seems to be plenty of space in that general area, though it will place all that weight relatively high up on the car.

 

the 968 woudl be a very tight fit in the engine compartment. I have never tried that. Not an issue for most dedicated track cars. One option is to put it in the spare tire well in the rear. If you do that then you will want to seal it off from the passenger compartment and vent it outside.

 

I was thinking on tank placement a while back and thought that a custom tank that sits were the washer reservoir sits would be a nice clean place and great for weight distribution in a 968. A small reservoir for the washer could be placed else were. Just an idea.

/Peder

 

If we are really worried about 'race car type' weight distribution then adding polar momentum is just as bad as raising the center of gravity.....for a full on race car the passenger floor is the best location.
For street cars - don't worry that much - you cant generate the grip to a point that this matters!

 

I see what you mean but when I thought about that I was thinking a dedicated streetable trackcar that look and work like a stock car with different modifications made in a stealthy manner. Not a full on racecar. But as said just an idea for a custom placement.
If not to raise center of gravity the drivers side fender could be used were the coal canister sits as suggested by SM. In there a tank can be made to sit very low (floorlevel) kinda like Porsche did on the aircooled 911:s

 

One often overlooked issue with dry sump systems is that they are vented - and you will get that hot oil smell often! So the tire well mounting point starts to look better (with a sealed top). Also better to get at it for any maintenance.