17x8 ET48 235/40 on the front
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
17x8 ET48 235/40 on the front
It rubs...it ground against the lettering on the brakes until we sanded that down...and then it rubbed against the top of the fender with the wheel turned and going over bumps...
Running 1.5 deg camber...will increasing camber help??? to 2, 2.2 degrees?
thanks,
Adrial
(oops, sorry...meant to post this to the 924/944 board)
Running 1.5 deg camber...will increasing camber help??? to 2, 2.2 degrees?
thanks,
Adrial
(oops, sorry...meant to post this to the 924/944 board)
#2
Drifting
Join Date: Jul 2002
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The offset is a bit too small. Aren't the stock Turbo S wheels something like 60 ET in the front?
There's a plastic cover inside the wheel well (covering the entire area), held on simply by some screws. I though I'd remove mine to make more room... dunno if it helps or not, but at least it's easy to try it
There's a plastic cover inside the wheel well (covering the entire area), held on simply by some screws. I though I'd remove mine to make more room... dunno if it helps or not, but at least it's easy to try it
#5
Drifting
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Check your original wheels, you still have them right?
Tommy (sybelix) actually has 18x8 ET 49 wheels on his '90 951, with 225/40 rubber ... maybe you just have that 10mm too much tire in there?
Now, I really don't know if this is possible or not, but what if you took your front wheels to a machine shop, and had them shave ~5mm or so off the centers on the inside? That'd increase the offset...
Tommy (sybelix) actually has 18x8 ET 49 wheels on his '90 951, with 225/40 rubber ... maybe you just have that 10mm too much tire in there?
Now, I really don't know if this is possible or not, but what if you took your front wheels to a machine shop, and had them shave ~5mm or so off the centers on the inside? That'd increase the offset...
#6
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
The problem with increasing the offset on the current wheels (the 17x8's) is that it would grind against the brake.
I still have the original wheels, these 17's are just track wheels.
Sybelix, WOW...thats a definite shock to me...Are you sure its the same on the 90's vs. the 89's with the difference from club sports to D90's?? (I dont see why it would be different, but I just want to be sure).
Anybody have any 17x8's for sale with an offset around 52-65mm??
I still have the original wheels, these 17's are just track wheels.
Sybelix, WOW...thats a definite shock to me...Are you sure its the same on the 90's vs. the 89's with the difference from club sports to D90's?? (I dont see why it would be different, but I just want to be sure).
Anybody have any 17x8's for sale with an offset around 52-65mm??
#7
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I have 17x8" ET56 Fikse's on the front my turbo. With a 245/40 up front I have zero rubbing and lots of clearance on the caliper. Camber is set w/plates at -1.5.
I *think* 48ET is just a little too little offset. I know I certainly don't have 8mm of wiggle room. Try a smaller tire, like a 225/45 of whatever brand/style you have mounted currently.
I *think* 48ET is just a little too little offset. I know I certainly don't have 8mm of wiggle room. Try a smaller tire, like a 225/45 of whatever brand/style you have mounted currently.
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#8
Has to be an offset problem.
I used to run 255/40s on the front of my old car with zero rubbing.
The first set of wheels I tried rubbed the calipers too, and I had to try a different set. Funny they worked on a 928, but not on the 951.
I used to run 255/40s on the front of my old car with zero rubbing.
The first set of wheels I tried rubbed the calipers too, and I had to try a different set. Funny they worked on a 928, but not on the 951.
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
So...I guess I could bolt up a 60mm ET 9" wide wheel up front and run 255/40?
I'm in the hunt for an either 17x8 or 17x9 with the proper offset for the front...
I'm in the hunt for an either 17x8 or 17x9 with the proper offset for the front...
#11
Race Director
"It rubs...it ground against the lettering on the brakes until we sanded that down...and then it rubbed against the top of the fender with the wheel turned and going over bumps..."
Aye, there's the rub, literally. There's actually a couple of independent factors here and changing some may fix some of the rubbing issues, but not all.
First and simplest is the design of the spokes. Spokes that come straight up out of the mounting area like say.... 5-spoke Gottis or RUFs won't clear because they don't provide enough room for the big calipers. Whereas wheels with spokes that are further towards the outside like C2, Cup wheels does have enough room. This is all at the same offset too, which doesn't really relate to brake-clearance.
Next, the offset is what's causing you to rub on the fenders. The stock 16x7" wheel on your car has 65mm offset. By going to a 17x8" 48mm offset wheel, you've placed ALL of the extra width on the outside, plus an additional 1/3rd inch as well. So your new wheel's outer rim edge is 1.33" further outwards than stock, thus the rubbing tire. You'll also notice that you have even more clearance on the inside between the strut compared to stock as well.
Don't know what brand/model these wheels are, but the way to fix the rubbing issues is to get new wheels (or new halves with 3-piece wheels) so that you have a 17x8" 70mm offset wheel. This will place 2/3rds of the extra 1" width on the inside and 1/3" on the outside. Fender rubbing shouldn't be an issue and you've already solved the brake-caliper issue by sanding off the lettering.
"How big an offset can I run while still clearing Turbo S (928 S4)
brakes and clearing the factory coilovers (not 2.5")..."
Provided that you have adequate caliper & spoke clearance, you can run a 9" rim up front with stock 65mm offset and a 255/40-17 tire without any problems. Going to 2.5" coilovers and 70mm offset will let you run a 10" rim to extract even more grip out of those tires. Even better grip can be had with an 11" rim and a 275/40-17 tire, but you'll need wider fenders because the 1" taller tire will rub the fender without any suspension movement at all... I wished someone would make a wide 25" diameter tire, like a 295/35-17...
Aye, there's the rub, literally. There's actually a couple of independent factors here and changing some may fix some of the rubbing issues, but not all.
First and simplest is the design of the spokes. Spokes that come straight up out of the mounting area like say.... 5-spoke Gottis or RUFs won't clear because they don't provide enough room for the big calipers. Whereas wheels with spokes that are further towards the outside like C2, Cup wheels does have enough room. This is all at the same offset too, which doesn't really relate to brake-clearance.
Next, the offset is what's causing you to rub on the fenders. The stock 16x7" wheel on your car has 65mm offset. By going to a 17x8" 48mm offset wheel, you've placed ALL of the extra width on the outside, plus an additional 1/3rd inch as well. So your new wheel's outer rim edge is 1.33" further outwards than stock, thus the rubbing tire. You'll also notice that you have even more clearance on the inside between the strut compared to stock as well.
Don't know what brand/model these wheels are, but the way to fix the rubbing issues is to get new wheels (or new halves with 3-piece wheels) so that you have a 17x8" 70mm offset wheel. This will place 2/3rds of the extra 1" width on the inside and 1/3" on the outside. Fender rubbing shouldn't be an issue and you've already solved the brake-caliper issue by sanding off the lettering.
"How big an offset can I run while still clearing Turbo S (928 S4)
brakes and clearing the factory coilovers (not 2.5")..."
Provided that you have adequate caliper & spoke clearance, you can run a 9" rim up front with stock 65mm offset and a 255/40-17 tire without any problems. Going to 2.5" coilovers and 70mm offset will let you run a 10" rim to extract even more grip out of those tires. Even better grip can be had with an 11" rim and a 275/40-17 tire, but you'll need wider fenders because the 1" taller tire will rub the fender without any suspension movement at all... I wished someone would make a wide 25" diameter tire, like a 295/35-17...
#12
The fronts rub by about 5mm. Otherwise they would tuck in to the fender nicely. Current camber is -1.5. Would bumping camber to -2.5 help.
The rub spot is about top center but changes slightly with steering direction.
Obviously new wheels is the best way to go, but funds are tight. Is this an easy solution?
The rub spot is about top center but changes slightly with steering direction.
Obviously new wheels is the best way to go, but funds are tight. Is this an easy solution?
#13
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Oct 2001
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Danno:
<strong>Even better grip can be had with an 11" rim and a 275/40-17 tire, but you'll need wider fenders because the 1" taller tire will rub the fender without any suspension movement at all... I wished someone would make a wide 25" diameter tire, like a 295/35-17...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If you go to 18" diameter wheels, there are quite a few options. Here are a couple of examples:
285/30-18:
BFGoodrich KD 285/30-18 24.8"
Kumho Ecsta V700 285/30-18 24.6"
Hoosier R3S03 285/30-18 24.6"
295/30-18:
Yokohama AVS Sport 25.0"
Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 25.2"
<strong>Even better grip can be had with an 11" rim and a 275/40-17 tire, but you'll need wider fenders because the 1" taller tire will rub the fender without any suspension movement at all... I wished someone would make a wide 25" diameter tire, like a 295/35-17...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If you go to 18" diameter wheels, there are quite a few options. Here are a couple of examples:
285/30-18:
BFGoodrich KD 285/30-18 24.8"
Kumho Ecsta V700 285/30-18 24.6"
Hoosier R3S03 285/30-18 24.6"
295/30-18:
Yokohama AVS Sport 25.0"
Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 25.2"
#14
Nordschleife Master
Oops now I get scared!
I bought a set of 17" RUF and the front wheels did not have enough clearance for the the Turbo S-brakes. I've bought 5mm spacers to solve that problem but I am afraid the wheel might get to far out and rub against the fender!
After reading thist post it seems like I have spent 15 hours to repaint the wheels just to sell them again
Only time will tell..
I bought a set of 17" RUF and the front wheels did not have enough clearance for the the Turbo S-brakes. I've bought 5mm spacers to solve that problem but I am afraid the wheel might get to far out and rub against the fender!
After reading thist post it seems like I have spent 15 hours to repaint the wheels just to sell them again
Only time will tell..
#15
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
According to my simple trig calculations, and assuming that the tire is 25" in diameter, and that the camber angle is measured from the base of the tire...an extra .5 degrees of camber would push the top of the tire in 1/4 of an inch or 6.3mm.
another .5 (giving me total of 2.5) degrees camber would push it in by another .22 inches.
The question is, assuming my above calculations are correct, will this extra clearence help if the rub only occurs when the wheel is turned?
Duke, whats the offset on those Ruf wheels? and diameter?
Thanks for the responses,
Adrial
another .5 (giving me total of 2.5) degrees camber would push it in by another .22 inches.
The question is, assuming my above calculations are correct, will this extra clearence help if the rub only occurs when the wheel is turned?
Duke, whats the offset on those Ruf wheels? and diameter?
Thanks for the responses,
Adrial