Huntley Racing has just released the ULTIMATE gasket for the 944 and 944 turbo as well as the 16V variants. These gaskets are Full Metal Jacketed for the most support possible to avoid 'blow-out' and far superior heat transfer properties to avoid 'burn-out'. We offer these in two styles: FMJ (standard all metal) and FMJ-OR. The 'OR' stands for internally o-ringed gasket. These have an o-ring embedded in the gasket which adds higher clamp down around the cylinder WITHOUT requiring additional machine work to the head or block!! These have proven far superior to the old-school 'wide-fire-ring' gasket in applications running very high boost. These gaskets are available in the standard 100mm bore as well as custom bore sizes up to 110mm. We stock 100mm and 106mm for immediate delivery. The FMJ runs $127.92 and the FMJ-OR runs $175.92. For more info contact me at Huntley Racing.

 

I think GURU RACING offer the ULTIMATE gasket, or at least were the first.

I have one of theirs and I can tell you that it is certainly impressive. If yours is similar, then you have done your homework, or should I say, looked over their shoulder and copied. There's leaders and then there's followers!

Keep up the good work GURU RACING. Your forsight and knowledge about what we need is equally impressive.

GURU RACING gets my vote!!!

 

Hmmm, lets not sling mud. GURU was the first to put this idea into action and come out with an all metal head gasket. But this O-ringed metal gasket is something to look at. If it does the same as an o ringed head, combined with an all metal gasket, its not a bad idea and might be worth checking out. Unless the GURU gasket seals so well that there is no need.

 

This O-ringed gasket may be worth checking out. look at the info on HR web site:

" The FMJ-OR gaskets are made from all metal materials that have Viton coatings top and botom for ultimate sealing and superior Blow-Out resistence.........The FMJ-OR has an embeded o-ring which adds additional clamp down force to the cylander sealing surface for added stability. ABSOLUTLY NO MACHINE WORK REQUIRED to run the o-ringed gasket"

Might be a good alternative to O-ringing the head?

 

Will the O-ring gasket work in conjunction with an O-ringed head? How about if head AND block are O-ringed?

 

Derrek,,

It's always good to hear advances in technology, particularly in sealants. In the past, head gaskets were somewhat of a limiting factor, in how many CC's these 4's could reliably achieve. How much prolonged boost have they sustained? A new gasket is very welcome news.

Thanks again

 

Yes I am very interested in this new FMJ O-ringed product. Particularly after experiencing 3 blown head gaskets, I personally would like to know more about their capabilities and some actual test results if possible.

 

i thought part of the idea of a head gasket is, it goes before far more expensive, harder to replace, etc. parts go. ie, isn't it better to burn a headgasket thru than burn a valve, or a piston??? god knows i'd rather mine had gone than my valve (oh well. that's life).

just a thought. not trying to sandbag but i don't want ppl to get so caught up in these thing's potential to not think about WHY gaskets fail. perhaps danno can back me up, i know he wrote some stuff on o-rings etc. a while back.....

 

< Viton coatings top and botom for ultimate sealing >

what is a viton coating?
any picture of the sealing material for teh water and oil channel?

Konstantin

 

"What is viton coating?"

Here is a link that might help

<a href="http://www.viton.com/Products/Viton/techInfo.asp" target="_blank">http://www.viton.com/Products/Viton/techInfo.asp</a>

 

Hmm, just love this ultimate gasket statments. Guys, don't forget gasket should be looked upon as a safety measure! If gasket holds - rods and valves are alot more expensive to replace yeah?

 

This question of using the head gasket as a fuse was brought up on another list and I will paste most of my responce here:

Ultimately the cause of most of head gasket failures, burned valves, cracked blocks and cracked head, broken piston rings, burned pistons and such is detonation or pre-ignition. Regardless of the type of headgasket you use, detonation will eventually cause one or more of the failures above. NO MATTER HOW STRONG YOU MAKE THE MOTOR, DETONATION WILL CAUSE DAMADGE!! I have to emphasize that point since few in the aftermarket business seem to focus on this. If you are detonating you need to stop driving the car until you fix the problem. The causes of detonation are many and often several factors lead to this. The most common are: Lean mixtures, too much ignition advance, low octane, hot spots (carbon buildup, poorly machined pistons, poorly machined combustion chamber), too much compression or boost, high induction temps, high exhaust backpressure, etc... Let me clarify that just because you run 25 PSI of boost DOES NOT MEAN you will ping!! If you have enough fuel at the right octane and your turbo is in it's efficiency range and there are no pre-ignition sources you may be able to run this boost all the time safely, but if you have a turbo putting out 200F because it is out of it's map, and are running 87 Oct and have lots of carbon buildup etc... expect to hurt the motor. This all being said, using an inferior head gasket because it is a fuse, is a poor excuse for lack of proper 'tuning' of your car to avoid detonation. By improving the head gasket we have added extra insurance and avoided the other 10% of head gasket failures (the deterioration of the composite fiber gaskets, and fire ring collapse). Plus these gaskets offer you some buffer when the car starts to detonate, to cure the problem BEFORE you blow a headgasket or do other damage. In all likelihood you will still blow these gaskets BEFORE any of the other failures anyway but just not as soon. Good luck.

 

Sound reasoning, Derrek

Well, I'm in a quandry now. Whose gasket should I buy?

 

I can answer that one too! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

 

Derrek wrote:

"Ultimately the cause of most of head gasket failures, burned valves, cracked blocks and cracked head, broken piston rings, burned pistons and such is detonation or pre-ignition. Regardless of the type of headgasket you use, detonation will eventually cause one or more of the failures above. NO MATTER HOW STRONG YOU MAKE THE MOTOR, DETONATION WILL CAUSE DAMADGE!! I have to emphasize that point since few in the aftermarket business seem to focus on this. If you are detonating you need to stop driving the car until you fix the problem. The causes of detonation are many and often several factors lead to this. The most common are: Lean mixtures, too much ignition advance, low octane, hot spots (carbon buildup, poorly machined pistons, poorly machined combustion chamber), too much compression or boost, high induction temps, high exhaust backpressure, etc... Let me clarify that just because you run 25 PSI of boost DOES NOT MEAN you will ping!! If you have enough fuel at the right octane and your turbo is in it's efficiency range and there are no pre-ignition sources you may be able to run this boost all the time safely, but if you have a turbo putting out 200F because it is out of it's map, and are running 87 Oct and have lots of carbon buildup etc... expect to hurt the motor. This all being said, using an inferior head gasket because it is a fuse, is a poor excuse for lack of proper 'tuning' of your car to avoid detonation. By improving the head gasket we have added extra insurance and avoided the other 10% of head gasket failures (the deterioration of the composite fiber gaskets, and fire ring collapse). Plus these gaskets offer you some buffer when the car starts to detonate, to cure the problem BEFORE you blow a headgasket or do other damage. In all likelihood you will still blow these gaskets BEFORE any of the other failures anyway but just not as soon. Good luck."

That is "hitting the nail on the head". Too many people try to patch over tuning issues..great post.

Take Care!