Advice on re-painting 86 951
#1
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Advice on re-painting 86 951
The paint on my car is great from the road, but as you get closer, there are some real rough places. First of all, it is not the original paint, it has been re-painted in guards by a previous owner. There are probably 5 places where hunks have been taken off, of course, this is in many different body pieces. Another eye-sore are the painted plastic pieces that fit between the rear bumper and the body - these have paint that is cracked. (all of you with original paint jobs - cheerish what you have!).
I took it to a body shop, he looked at all of the hickies and said a total repaint was the way to go - at about $2,300. This is just a local body shop.
Can any of you give me any pointers on what to look for in a re-paint. Are therespecific things to expect from a body shop, etc.
Thanks
I took it to a body shop, he looked at all of the hickies and said a total repaint was the way to go - at about $2,300. This is just a local body shop.
Can any of you give me any pointers on what to look for in a re-paint. Are therespecific things to expect from a body shop, etc.
Thanks
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Hobbs, NM (or lovington)
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That sounds like a good deal, my dad is a painter. If you want it to look bad *** get dupont chroma base paing, $180 for .5 gallons though. I have half a gallon of clear on mine, and make sure to look at some previous jobs they did.
#3
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Your paint sounds like mine... good from far but far from good.
Definatly look at past work performed, and do not be afraid to look real close. It is the little details that will drive you nuts with a repaint. Also make sure that their past work is representative of their current standards.
Definatly look at past work performed, and do not be afraid to look real close. It is the little details that will drive you nuts with a repaint. Also make sure that their past work is representative of their current standards.
#4
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You will save a lot of cash if you do most of the prep work. Take off every peice of moulding, mirros, door handles and skins, etc. Then flatbed it to the shop and let them strip it back to the origional Sikkens that is on it. This way there is a solid base to work from.
I suggest having it shot with one of the 2 OEM paints availible, Sikkins ($430/gal) or Spies Hecker ($380/gal). I shot mine with Spies and would do it again in a heart beat. Turned out excellent. Both OEM paints are 1 stage. A 2 stage would be almost $1000 in material alone.
I suggest having it shot with one of the 2 OEM paints availible, Sikkins ($430/gal) or Spies Hecker ($380/gal). I shot mine with Spies and would do it again in a heart beat. Turned out excellent. Both OEM paints are 1 stage. A 2 stage would be almost $1000 in material alone.
#5
Race Director
2300?!?!
I went to three shops, and all three were well over 5,500 for a complete respray. One was over 7000! Im getting my front resprayed to the doors and my rear fender repaired and resprayed, and hopefully adding a gtracing rear bumper/air front spoiler to the tune of just under $4000
Thats from a previous quote, they are going to look at it when they start the rear which was quoted a tad under 1400.
quality work though..Ive seen some awesome Porsches come in/out...
I went to three shops, and all three were well over 5,500 for a complete respray. One was over 7000! Im getting my front resprayed to the doors and my rear fender repaired and resprayed, and hopefully adding a gtracing rear bumper/air front spoiler to the tune of just under $4000
Thats from a previous quote, they are going to look at it when they start the rear which was quoted a tad under 1400.
quality work though..Ive seen some awesome Porsches come in/out...
#6
Racer
While your stripping the trim, don't forget the door moldings and the stone guards.
There are a couple of board members here that did not have the moldings removed prior to painting and the result is pretty bad. And new stone guards always look better..
There are a couple of board members here that did not have the moldings removed prior to painting and the result is pretty bad. And new stone guards always look better..
#7
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Katy, TX - Texas Greaseslingers West
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[quote]Originally posted by Gundo:
<strong>While your stripping the trim, don't forget the door moldings and the stone guards.
There are a couple of board members here that did not have the moldings removed prior to painting and the result is pretty bad. And new stone guards always look better..</strong><hr></blockquote>
Ouch! Brings back bad memories! Luckily I had "Remove the Stone Guards" in the written estimate/contract. Their loss, they had to repaint. Oh well, at least the guy didn't complain - not to me anyway. I'll bet the paint and body guy got an earfull!
<strong>While your stripping the trim, don't forget the door moldings and the stone guards.
There are a couple of board members here that did not have the moldings removed prior to painting and the result is pretty bad. And new stone guards always look better..</strong><hr></blockquote>
Ouch! Brings back bad memories! Luckily I had "Remove the Stone Guards" in the written estimate/contract. Their loss, they had to repaint. Oh well, at least the guy didn't complain - not to me anyway. I'll bet the paint and body guy got an earfull!