jdog

I have an 86 951 which seems to have a elec. problem.I was on vacation for 2 weeks only to come back to a dead battery. I tested for a draw and found nothing. I tested alt. output and got a reading of 13.84v. Does this constitute a bad alt.? Or is it just charging low.If not a bad alt. then what else could i check.
Thanks,
<img src="confused.gif" border="0">

IceShark

How did you get down to the alternator to check it? <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />

Make sure the plastic heat shield and cooling hose from the front scoop are in place and no holes. This is important, especially on a turbo which sits right next to the alt.

13.8v is about right with the amperage draw for bringing the battery back up. I sell an adjustable voltage regulator for the headlight kits that you could replace your original with. It should help as if you have the original it is about shot by now. The cost is $16.50 plus some shipping.

I suspect a current draw somewhere or maybe a bad battery. Batteries don't like being undercharged which is quite easy if you have the original voltage regulator.

jdog

I took the battery out and did several load tests on it and it was fine not dropping below 10.8v.
I suspect that it may be a problem with the charging system somewhere.I would just hate to replace the alt./reg. and it not be the problem.
Thanks. <img src="confused.gif" border="0">

IceShark

I doubt the alternator is the problem. Regulator is near certainly a problem.

Bosch set that at about 14.0 volts. So the differential in voltage is a bit light and the battery never gets up to charge unless you drive hours every time.

You still need to check amp draw with the car shut down to see if some draw is on, like your glove box light.

If you pull the alternator you would be a fool not to replace the regulator. That is cheap and the brushes are worn down anyway. After all that work you better replace something! <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />

951Gary

I went around with a very similar situation. I measured the current draw and load checked the battery. Should not have had a problem according the measurements.

Check your door switches. You may find that one has failed in the "door closed" position (electrically open). Here is my post on that

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=15&t=011217" target="_blank">door switch and battery drain</a>

good luck
Gary

Randy_J

Thanks Gary 951 for the hint on the door switches.

Just how long should the window switch relay stay "powered" after the ignition is shut off? I wondered why I could still operate the windows for a while after the ignition is off.

Recently I noticed one of the relays staying "powered" because of a dropping resistor stying really hot (too hot to touch) in the panel. (I'm out of town right now and cannot give the relay position - sorry - but you'd know it, as it is so hot that it can burn your hand to the touch).

Sounds like I better pull those door switches to clean them in any event!

951Gary

The windows will operate indefinitely after the ignition is switched off, UNTIL the door is open. Once you open the door, that relay and power to the windows is cut off.

I hope this solves your problem.
Gary