Danno, Guru racing chip problem........
09-16-2002 | 12:02 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: Nashville/Orlando
Danno, Guru racing chip problem........
Yo, Danno my car seems to be running a rich on idle. Is that normal???? I notice a little bit of black smoke on idle and it never had that before. And its burning up gas like hell. Also I am running cooler that before so the extra gas might be cooling my engine a little bit. Is it ok???? I think you sent me the chips for the turbo S since I have some head work and exhaust. What do you think??
09-16-2002 | 12:56 AM
#2
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,075
Likes: 3
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Make sure your TPS clicks into the idle position with the throttle closed. That signals the DME to switch over to the idle fuel-map, otherwise it will use the partial-throttle map.
What version chips did you get? Was it version 4a? I'll send you an updated version 6a. That has a little less fuel under idle and low-RPM/low-throttle conditions. It also has a more aggressive timing map if you select region#3 (Australia) with the coding-plug. This is for 100-octane race-gas only and should net another 2-3% power.
What version chips did you get? Was it version 4a? I'll send you an updated version 6a. That has a little less fuel under idle and low-RPM/low-throttle conditions. It also has a more aggressive timing map if you select region#3 (Australia) with the coding-plug. This is for 100-octane race-gas only and should net another 2-3% power.
09-16-2002 | 01:40 AM
#3
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: Fullerton, CA
FYI... I chased a rich/hi-idle problem for the first two years of owning my car. I replaced several parts, thinking my TPS was ok since it clicked at the idle position.
After testing it with an Ohm meter, I discovered it was bad. So, the 'click' theory isn't all inclusive.
In fact, if someone would of recommended to just test it in the first place, it would of saved me a lot of time and headache. Its real easy to test - takes about 15minutes. All you need is an Ohm meter.
If I was you, if the TPS is greater than 5 years old I'd just replace it. Its not solid-state, so it has a finite life-span.
Good Luck,
-Sean
After testing it with an Ohm meter, I discovered it was bad. So, the 'click' theory isn't all inclusive.
In fact, if someone would of recommended to just test it in the first place, it would of saved me a lot of time and headache. Its real easy to test - takes about 15minutes. All you need is an Ohm meter.
If I was you, if the TPS is greater than 5 years old I'd just replace it. Its not solid-state, so it has a finite life-span.
Good Luck,
-Sean
09-16-2002 | 07:04 PM
#5
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 14,075
Likes: 3
From: Santa Barbara, CA
You can actually test it in the car at the KLR plug. Check for +voltage at KLR pin #22 (white/green-stripe) with a digital voltmeteter (ground anywhere). Then have an assistant gradually open the throttle. You should see the voltage increase smoothly without any dropouts or jumps.
Also check the idle-switch at DME pin#2 (white/black strip).
Also check the idle-switch at DME pin#2 (white/black strip).
09-17-2002 | 01:02 AM
#6
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: Fullerton, CA
I've placed the page from the factory repair manual on my web site(Link Below).
Perform 'Section C' 'No Display:' procedure to test the TPS.
<a href="http://www.20dollars.net/pics/carstuff/misc/951TPSDiag.JPG" target="_blank">http://www.20dollars.net/pics/carstuff/misc/951TPSDiag.JPG</a>
I'd be interested to see what you find.
Hope this helps,
Sean
Perform 'Section C' 'No Display:' procedure to test the TPS.
<a href="http://www.20dollars.net/pics/carstuff/misc/951TPSDiag.JPG" target="_blank">http://www.20dollars.net/pics/carstuff/misc/951TPSDiag.JPG</a>
I'd be interested to see what you find.
Hope this helps,
Sean
