Would someone please explane the simptoms of bad Ball joints?
06-25-2003, 10:26 PM
#3
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i just replaced mine in my honda accord this weekend luckly it broke when i pulled into my driveway.it was the lower ball joint and it was a grinding sound from the drive shaft was rubbing up against the shock mount. but my signs were a slow to center steering feel if that makes sence. and a lot of squeaking like the joints were dry witch they were and it was a heavy feel to the steering as well hope that helps. if you have any doubt i would replace it.i was lucky it broke when i pulled into my driveway.
scott
scott
06-25-2003, 11:22 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
The steering starts to feel imprecise, like the car moves around a bit too much and is harder to keep in line. It's hard to explain, but you can tell something's wrong if you're in tune with the car.
06-26-2003, 03:34 PM
#6
Drifting
Poor steering feel may not always be caused by a failing ball joint and a failing joint may not always be noticeable in the steering (I know mine weren't). If you can feel it through the wheel, the joint is about ready to fall apart.
There is a test to perform directly on the joint to verify it is good. With the car up on jack stands (securely) and the wheels still on the car...
Place a block of wood (I use a piece of 2x4 about 5" long) inside the wheel under the ball joint. With a large screwdriver, pry bar, pipe, etc. lay it over the wood and try to pry up on the underside of the control arm directly under the joint. Pull hard, you won't hurt everything. If you see ANY movement of the joint (you will usually see the boot compressing if there is movement) your joint is bad. You may have to put your fingers on the joint to detect the movement.
Joints can fail at any time, even with only street driving. I've had joints fail within a few months (and few hundred miles of street driving) of the last check. For a street car, this is a good check to do whenever you change your oil and are under there anyway; for a track car, before every event.
Catastrophic failures are bad, bad, bad.
There is a test to perform directly on the joint to verify it is good. With the car up on jack stands (securely) and the wheels still on the car...
Place a block of wood (I use a piece of 2x4 about 5" long) inside the wheel under the ball joint. With a large screwdriver, pry bar, pipe, etc. lay it over the wood and try to pry up on the underside of the control arm directly under the joint. Pull hard, you won't hurt everything. If you see ANY movement of the joint (you will usually see the boot compressing if there is movement) your joint is bad. You may have to put your fingers on the joint to detect the movement.
Joints can fail at any time, even with only street driving. I've had joints fail within a few months (and few hundred miles of street driving) of the last check. For a street car, this is a good check to do whenever you change your oil and are under there anyway; for a track car, before every event.
Catastrophic failures are bad, bad, bad.
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06-26-2003, 07:30 PM
#8
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If they are severely worn you'll also have alignment problems. When I went in for an alignment, the mechanic came to me and said that he was getting a really large amount of movement after setting the suspension up and couldn't guarantee that i would have decent tire wear.
06-26-2003, 08:17 PM
#9
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by ArcticCzar:
<strong>While we're on the subject, can somebody recommend a rebuild kit for the balljoints? I know the joints themselves are still in good order, but the boots have failed.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Cough...Cough.... <a href="http://www.rennbay.com" target="_blank">www.rennbay.com</a>
<strong>While we're on the subject, can somebody recommend a rebuild kit for the balljoints? I know the joints themselves are still in good order, but the boots have failed.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Cough...Cough.... <a href="http://www.rennbay.com" target="_blank">www.rennbay.com</a>
06-27-2003, 10:26 AM
#10
Drifting
ArcticCzar,
If you only need new boots, you won't need a ball joint rebuild kit (which are available from a few suppliers, such as above).
A VW ball joint boot from an Audi 5000S will fit perfectly. Most VW dealers will sell them for ~$25 each, though they will likely have to order them.
If you only need new boots, you won't need a ball joint rebuild kit (which are available from a few suppliers, such as above).
A VW ball joint boot from an Audi 5000S will fit perfectly. Most VW dealers will sell them for ~$25 each, though they will likely have to order them.
06-27-2003, 11:08 AM
#11
Three Wheelin'
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"> If you only need new boots, you won't need a ball joint rebuild kit (which are available from a few
suppliers, such as above).
A VW ball joint boot from an Audi 5000S will fit perfectly. Most VW dealers will sell them for ~$25
each, though they will likely have to order them. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Boy, that makes me realize what a bargain the Rennbay kit really is at $65 complete. Now I feel like my kit at the introductory price of $27 was highway robbery. Good job Travis!
suppliers, such as above).
A VW ball joint boot from an Audi 5000S will fit perfectly. Most VW dealers will sell them for ~$25
each, though they will likely have to order them. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Boy, that makes me realize what a bargain the Rennbay kit really is at $65 complete. Now I feel like my kit at the introductory price of $27 was highway robbery. Good job Travis!
