alengyel

I called the company, they said the Alusil was fine. But the are trying to sell them. Thanks Perry.

Matt Sheppard

Well, after checking the thrust on the crank, it was WAY out of spec. The center main bearing thrust surface - front throw - is really eaten away and it started eroding the other rear bearing webs. It didnt seem to distort them on the bearing seating surface yet, but it was creaping it's way in there

So, I guess my luck has run out . . . I have an '83 NA engine complete that I will tear into this week to scavange the crank - maybe even the whole bottom end if the bores are better than these on the turbo block. Any concerns here? I'll do an archive search, I remember it being discussed.

Erick : We have met. Last year's Festival of Speed, Fontana. I bought some turbo S wheels and spare frome you. I'd love to see your new Turbo S. Grant in Denver said you bought his seats. I really wish I could have got the rest of the car. He ended up selling it for $8K I beleive.

Matt

Perry 951

If your thrust surface on the crank is "well" out of spec, chances are your bores are ovaled. That is the exact reason I sent my block off to Garrity.

You'll need a crank, as you already know, and depending on how far out of round the bores are, possibly pistons.

Let us know what you find.

dand86951

MATT, I know you were looking for the "Holy Grail" of a cheap good engine rebuild,(aren't we all) but with that many miles it would be a bit of a miracle for there not to be the kind of wear you have. If you decide to use the block I would really have the bores checked at a competent shop for diameter, roundness and taper. If they are round and not too much taper( top to bottom) then a coated set of pistons would work. If they are not round and they have a lot of taper or simply are too worn in the diameter, then it is a much tougher job.

I can recomend calling Dartin Liners, they have them ready for the 944, and get in touch with EBS for a set of JE pistons to go with them. You should be able to get Pistons, rings and liners for around $825. Machine shop charges should be around three to four hundred to put the liners in. not cheap but should be very solid when you finish.

badcoupe

don't people have a hard time sleeving these blocks?

Matt Sheppard

I did not have time to spend on the engine today but I thought about this problem plenty. I think using the '83 block might be wiser, . . . though I haven't inspected it yet. I will do that first before my next step. Now I will have 2 engine disassembly's to keep track of - the garage is getting smaller.

I dont know about the rest of you, but I really have this problem of planning way before I actually get measurements i.e. I think "I SHOUD need to replace XYZ when I do this project." Then, I get to it and learn what I will really need are the other 23 characters of the alphabet. I'm just prone to over-think before I do I guess.

Dan:

Thanks for the advice and it's sound reasoning there. This whole 2.5 rebuild was so that I could take the smoking, clacking 2.7 sleeved engine out and take my time to rebuild it correctly since the complete a$$ monkey who did it before just must have not really cared much about it - it only has 10K on a complete rebuild, Garrity sleeved block (hey Brian, sound familiar?) and JE's, Raceware everything, piston squirters, lots of slick stuff . . . and yet only has 107 PSI compression on each cyl., smokes like a chimeny and clacks like . . . well, it's just NOT right and needs to have proper attention. This 2.5 is just to get me through 'til that engine has been carefully sorted and assembled ala Perry 951's current mill. I knew a 270K motor would need some things, but I was extreamly optimistic about the bottom end and thought the top should be where I will replace things. OK, redo the head, pull the pan off, pistons/rods out, OK check those out, rod journals spec out, GREAT! . . . oh no, what is THIS! 1/8" of end play? That's the LAST thing I expected - why I dunno - It is my pipe dream.

Well, I am glad I took it apart to the level I did. The crank's center main thrust surface is totally hammered - a HUGE groove is dug into the forward throw. Possibly enough end play to distort the main bearing saddles and, as mentioned, oval the bores. This would have been a foolish platform to put $1K into thinking it will be sound to stomp on for what may perhaps be a whole year. Better luck next engine!

Thanks for all your advice
"In the multitude of council, there is Wisdom"