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Exhaust Manifold Leak

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Old 04-10-2002, 12:40 AM
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Brian Beaulieu
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Lightbulb Exhaust Manifold Leak

I'm really new to this however I have a lot of motivation.
The syptoms that make me believe the problem is with the exhaust manifold is while the car is running exhaust comes from the engine compartment.. both when driving and at a stand still. It just dribbles out when it's stopped..

Looking at the engine it was clear that it was coming from one of the 4 pipes coming off of the engine block. It's been quite a while since I looked at the problem so I'm not sure which one it is anymore.

I have a few questions..

1) I've been told that there's an updated bellowed version of the manifold. On mine, the pipe closest to the front of the car (1 or 4) has an accordian style section. That's the only part. I'd expect the other pipes to have it as well if I had the updated version on the car.

2) Is the updated version similar to my description or does it sound like I have the original?

3) Is the connection at the bottom of the .. heading towards the turbocharger.. the same on the original and updated versions?

There's a used exhaust manifold for sale on eBay which i'm considering.. since it'd be a cheap way to test this theory. I'd order new gaskets from a local dealer.

<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1818245557&r=0&t=0" target="_blank">Exhaust manifold on eBay</a>

Anyone have an opinion on whether or not this replacement would be compatible?

Thanks for your help..

Brian
Old 04-10-2002, 01:20 AM
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951and944S
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Brian, ther are also gaskets at the cylinder head, wher the manifolds connect for each cylinder, have you checked these..

I haven't tried, specificly on 944's but on other type cars this works to find leaks in the exhaust.

Between cylinder 1&2 and 3&4 of the intake manifold, passenger side, you'll see vacuum connections. Take the front one loose, inject some transmission fluid into the hole and replace the line. Start engine and look fo smoke leaking from the area where you suspect the exhaust is coming from. Smoke will clear fast so you'll have to be pretty quick if you have no help.

Works every time...
Old 04-10-2002, 01:13 PM
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Brian Beaulieu
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I put the nuts back on at the block.. started it up.. let the 'smoke clear' and found the leak.

Order from back to front is 1 3 4 2

It's coming from 3.. below the bend.. heading down

Damn .. I was hoping that it was just some stuff burning off after a few nasty leaks that have been since repaired.

Any easy way to repair this? 3+4 don't have any bellowed portions.. assuming bellowed means that flex-looking stuff.

Thanks,

Brian
Old 04-10-2002, 01:41 PM
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gregm
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I ALSO HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THE EARLY MANIFOLDS ON MY '86 TURBO. I TRIED TO REPAIR THEM BY WELDING THE CRACKS, BUT IT ONLY LASTED ABOUT 4 MONTHS BEFORE THEY CRACKED AGAIN. I REPLACED THE 1,4 MANIFOLD ONLY. THE 2,3 SEEMS TO BE STILL OK.
Old 04-10-2002, 03:57 PM
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Brian Beaulieu
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The car hadn't been run in over a year so I decided to go in the house and let it run for about 1.5 hours. I went back outside and there was no exhaust coming out. I gave it some gas.. still nothing. I turned it off.. jumped it again (battery isn't holding a charge anymore).. still nothing... could it be something was just burning? This leak (or maybe burning) had been going on for a very long time.. I can't imagine that it jus twent away like this. I have a friend coming over to help me out with the tranny fluid test.. that'll be the final word on it.

Fun fun fun!

Brian
Old 04-10-2002, 09:32 PM
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951and944S
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Brian, keep at it, the test will work for you, but I was under the impression that you had exhaust leak sound somewhere.
So yes, if you are only concerned about smoke it could have been something on the pipes.

And one of the gaskets at the wastegate could sound like it's under the hood, and they're round with a soft metal saturated mesh webbing, so the could in theory seal themselves after getting hot!

BTW Cylinders from the rear of the engine
are 4-3-2-1, 1-2-3-4 from the front, what you stated above is the order in which the cylinders are fired....

Cheers
Old 04-10-2002, 10:04 PM
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Brian Beaulieu
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I'll get all of the terminology correct eventually

Well, we ran the test. No smoke..

It was down 2 quarts of oil.. and further inspection found oil leaks at the front and rear ends of the cam. The smoke is oil dripping on the exhaust.. that'd explain why it was intermittent.

I have to pick up some long hex sockets.. and the cam gasket... we're going to take off the cam assembly.. look for cracks.. and replace the gasket. The car really runs fine so we're pretty sure it's just the gasket.. but we'll find out. We also found that the hex screws at the front and rear weren't snugly tightened to 15 ft/lb.. there appeared to be oil leaking from the front as well. I'm going to clean up the engine and look for more leaks tomorrow.

I'll let you all know how it goes tomorrow.. thanks for all of the insight.

Brian
Old 04-10-2002, 11:40 PM
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951and944S
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There's a cover at the rear of the cambox, and a seal at the camshaft front. Also each balance shaft and the cam if memory serves, has a thin (I mean thin) plastic seal, clear, to seal oil from leaking around each shaft between the sprocket.
Make sure prvious mechanic did not omit this paper thin seal. Inspect the rear cam cover closely before you go and take the entire houising off, may save alot of work.
Also, I hope it's not the plug at the RH (pass.) balance shaft cover, or you'll be learning correct terminology sooner than you may wish too...


Good luck Brian....
Old 04-11-2002, 12:27 AM
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Brian Beaulieu
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There's such a lack of room in the back... it makes it difficult to pin point perfectly. I have an old Haynes manual.. this procedure (cam removal.. not the intake removal) is about "18 steps" Here's our approach...

1) After tightening all of the bolts tonight.. Tomorrow, clean the engine.. specifically around all of the seals.. get all of the oil off. Drive it around (to the DMV .. I let the registration lapse almost a year heh).. see if it still leaks.

If 1 fails.. 2) Remove the cam cover .. along with everything else that's in the way.. examine the gaskets.. hopefully they'll be saturated in oil... to confirm our theory. If it isn't then we have a bigger problem I suspect.

What seals should be replaced while we have the cover off?

1 cam gasket
... anything else? I can't imagine there's just one seal..

This is becoming less frustrating as time passes.

Brian
Old 04-11-2002, 12:45 PM
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R.B.
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Hey Brian,

[quote] I have to pick up some long hex sockets.. and the cam gasket... <hr></blockquote>

If you can't find any of these long sockets, the poor man's method (aka mine ) was to take
a 6mm L-shaped allen key, cut the short end off so you are left with a straight 6 mm allen key.
Use a 6 mm socket on the end and voila you have a lone hex socket. To keep the bolts from slipping off of the allen key make sure you dip the allen key in grease. That'll keep the bolt on till you remove it from the cam cover.

Good Luck!

R.B.
Old 04-12-2002, 03:18 PM
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rplencne
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If you're pulling the cam cover, you've got to pull the timing belt. Might be a good time to consider belts, waterpump, pulleys, etc if they're getting close to their service interval (or if you don't know when they were last replaced). And while you're in there, maybe front seals ...

-Bob P.
Old 04-13-2002, 12:13 AM
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951and944S
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Brian, one last note.
You can purchase a leak detector set including UV light and dye for engine oil from a toolhouse or large parts store.
Simply clean areas, pour dye into engine crankcase, run the engine, then using an enclosure or garage, turn out the lights and shine the UV light at suspect areas.
Oil leaks will show up a flourescent color, making it clear where it's coming from.

Cheers
Old 04-15-2002, 11:04 AM
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Brian Beaulieu
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It's done! Did it Saturday... cleaned the surfaces until it was perfectly clean. put on the new gasket.. torqued down all of the bolts..wrapped it up and let it sit. Sunday I cleaned the engine and let it run.. it smoked for a while until it was completely dry.. and no more oil leak!

Now.. we didn't have a low profile wrench to hold the tension bolt so one person had to do it by hand while the other tightened the nut. We feel it's pretty tight but it's probably not as tight as it was when my mechanic changed all of the belts.. Is there a recommended tool for that? The tension level is pretty easy to mimic.. without a gauge.

Thank you, everyone, for all of the help.

Brian



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