Rebuilt Control Arms vs. Rebuilding Arms
04-20-2011 | 10:50 AM
#6
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
I just got the super-deluxe kit from rennbay, cost 135$ +/-
Hoping it will be sufficient as opposed to the track kit.
Going to tackle the job this weekend, just hoping the arm is still in good shape as I have had to keep driving it with a knocking ball joint while waiting for the parts to clear customs. Will keep you posted if you like.
Hoping it will be sufficient as opposed to the track kit.
Going to tackle the job this weekend, just hoping the arm is still in good shape as I have had to keep driving it with a knocking ball joint while waiting for the parts to clear customs. Will keep you posted if you like.
04-20-2011 | 12:40 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Race Car
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,638
Likes: 1
From: KC, MO
Does switching to steel arms lower the resale value or anything? Is it considered a "quick fix" I do like the idea of cheap control arms. How much lighter are the aluminum ones vs. steel?
I should also mention I do not race this car by any means occasional spirited drive.
I should also mention I do not race this car by any means occasional spirited drive.
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04-20-2011 | 01:02 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis,IN
If you aren't a purist, or close, I doubt it will hurt the resale, but if I personally was looking to buy a 951 and it didn't have the alum arms, I'd pass. Just like I'd pass on one with a turbo coolant pump delete, AC delete, or yellow plug wires. Thats just me.
For "spirited driving" any difference in weight won't matter. Just make sure you get the right castor blocks if you get the steel arms, then track down a welding shop to stiffen them.
For "spirited driving" any difference in weight won't matter. Just make sure you get the right castor blocks if you get the steel arms, then track down a welding shop to stiffen them.
04-20-2011 | 02:50 PM
#10
Thread Starter
Race Car
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,638
Likes: 1
From: KC, MO
If you aren't a purist, or close, I doubt it will hurt the resale, but if I personally was looking to buy a 951 and it didn't have the alum arms, I'd pass. Just like I'd pass on one with a turbo coolant pump delete, AC delete, or yellow plug wires. Thats just me.
For "spirited driving" any difference in weight won't matter. Just make sure you get the right castor blocks if you get the steel arms, then track down a welding shop to stiffen them.
For "spirited driving" any difference in weight won't matter. Just make sure you get the right castor blocks if you get the steel arms, then track down a welding shop to stiffen them.
What do you mean have the castor blocks welded up?
04-20-2011 | 05:45 PM
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 929
Likes: 5
From: Parral, Chihuahua, Mejico
Don't buy rebuilt arms as the rebuilders bore out the ball joints oversized to put in low-quality joints and then, when you come to do the Rennbay kit, you'll have to buy new arms because the ball joint is not stock size.
Get the kit and do your own.
Get the kit and do your own.
04-20-2011 | 11:40 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 779
Likes: 0
From: Northern NJ
If you aren't a purist, or close, I doubt it will hurt the resale, but if I personally was looking to buy a 951 and it didn't have the alum arms, I'd pass. Just like I'd pass on one with a turbo coolant pump delete, AC delete, or yellow plug wires. Thats just me.
For "spirited driving" any difference in weight won't matter. Just make sure you get the right castor blocks if you get the steel arms, then track down a welding shop to stiffen them.
For "spirited driving" any difference in weight won't matter. Just make sure you get the right castor blocks if you get the steel arms, then track down a welding shop to stiffen them.
ummm though not for sale!
