What oil filter(quick)
03-22-2003, 11:17 AM
#1
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What oil filter(quick)
I haven't been able to get a manual for this car yet ... I'd really like to change the oil and filter this morning.
What brand/model filter does this take?
How much oil is added after draining?
Where approximately is the drain plug located(in case it's a little obscure)?
THANKS for the quick help! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
What brand/model filter does this take?
How much oil is added after draining?
Where approximately is the drain plug located(in case it's a little obscure)?
THANKS for the quick help! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
03-22-2003, 12:00 PM
#3
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Hey there
Mahles are the respected standard, only $4-5 ea. from Paragon Products so get like 3 in your next order to them
In a pinch, most quality auto parts stores stock Mobil 1 filters or Bosch filters. These are OK.
Say NO to Fram!
The drain plug is pretty obvious - on the passenger side of the oil pan. after the large-but-thin alluminum under-engine protector is removed (If you car still has one).
Fill new oil to the mark and rn for 5 mins. Lt set for atleast 15 mins and check level again.
Look up the archives, a few messages on the board have covered some of the details like how to get the old filter off w/ out oil all over the engine/ground. Some people puncture the top of the old filter to let the oil have a chance to drain out the bottom before removal, some use plastic bags.
Hope that helps.
Matt
Mahles are the respected standard, only $4-5 ea. from Paragon Products so get like 3 in your next order to them
In a pinch, most quality auto parts stores stock Mobil 1 filters or Bosch filters. These are OK.
Say NO to Fram!
The drain plug is pretty obvious - on the passenger side of the oil pan. after the large-but-thin alluminum under-engine protector is removed (If you car still has one).
Fill new oil to the mark and rn for 5 mins. Lt set for atleast 15 mins and check level again.
Look up the archives, a few messages on the board have covered some of the details like how to get the old filter off w/ out oil all over the engine/ground. Some people puncture the top of the old filter to let the oil have a chance to drain out the bottom before removal, some use plastic bags.
Hope that helps.
Matt
03-22-2003, 12:05 PM
#4
Only one choice, in my opinion... Mahle OC-142. Ian Riley at Europarts (954-968-3766) and Jason at Paragon will get you taken care of in a jiffy, and both sponsor Rennlist, so give 'em your business.
Regards,
Regards,
03-22-2003, 12:16 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
sorry folks, didn't mean to intro tweeks and perpro, i wasn't aware of mahle. what makes it good. also i can only get fram on base. but ty for the info and in the future i'll be getting it from paragon.
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03-22-2003, 06:03 PM
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Correction:
Turbos have a large black plastic engine tray in front of a thin alluminum one, I was thinking "NA" when posting this morning.
Bad dog! bad! . . .
Turbos have a large black plastic engine tray in front of a thin alluminum one, I was thinking "NA" when posting this morning.
Bad dog! bad! . . .
03-22-2003, 06:06 PM
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Any import to the alum. undertray(aerodynamics, etc)?
I don't have one ... as I noticed when replacing my wastegate(2hr beginner job my bum ... maybe a beginner with 3 friends to pry stuff and a oxygen/MAP gas torch ...) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
I don't have one ... as I noticed when replacing my wastegate(2hr beginner job my bum ... maybe a beginner with 3 friends to pry stuff and a oxygen/MAP gas torch ...) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
03-24-2003, 02:58 AM
#12
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Yeah, hee, hee. . . wastegates - or any part of our exhaust systems - dont come off easily. It's enough to drive a man to buy a heliarc welder and tubing bender just to have an easily serviceable exhaust. In the mean time there's always Tim Richards for hire. That and a can of PB Blaster goes a long way
Re: engine pans. They do make a difference both air-flow wise and protection, how much difference is arguable. I know the most significant on a turbo-car is the front nose undertray - it is a big benifit to radiator airflow. The further back you go, the less important - in my opinion. I keep the middle plastic undertray and put it on/ leave it off intermittantly. The rear alluminum one, ebayed that baby!
Re: engine pans. They do make a difference both air-flow wise and protection, how much difference is arguable. I know the most significant on a turbo-car is the front nose undertray - it is a big benifit to radiator airflow. The further back you go, the less important - in my opinion. I keep the middle plastic undertray and put it on/ leave it off intermittantly. The rear alluminum one, ebayed that baby!
03-24-2003, 06:38 AM
#13
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FWIW, the black "factory" filters with the Porsche script sold by dealer parts counters here in Europe for $14/ea are "Made in U.S.A." and are probably the same "Deutsch" brand filters you can buy at Autozone for under $5. <img border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" title="" src="graemlins/cussing.gif" />
