ali4

I took a look from under the car and found the switch. I noticed it is seeping coolant from the bolts. Is this normal or could this be caused by the switch going bad? I tried taking a picture but I don't think it shows the leak very well.

944hal

Can't tell from the picture. There are no bolts anyway. The temp switch is threaded and screws into the radiator. I doubt it going bad would cause it to leak.

944hal

Anyway, if you can reach it, pull the wire off and see if the fans stop. There is a connector, so try and grab it as close to the switch as possible. Don't pull on the wires at the rear of the connector. Water sepage could be coming from the hose just above the switch.

ali4

Ok so I took the connectors out I plugged a charger to the battery and the fan DID NOT turn back on!!! Thanks for the help...

Now I will order the switch from pelican parts. I wanted to try and do the job myself but removing the fan sounds difficult. Also I dont know if I have enough clearance under the car to pull it out. Looks like it may be difficult. If its easy or there is an easy way to do it please let me know I would like to try it on my own. Keeping in mind I had another thread where some members walked me through an oil change (My first oil change ever), so i would need a lot of detail and maybe even pictures.

slap929

you are talking about the thermo switch, right? It is not that difficult to do and is a good/easy job to do. You will need to jack up the car and get under the front end. The switch(if it is the thermo) will be under the pipe leading to the radiator from the block(if i remember correctly). You wont need any special tools and it really isnt that difficult. The only way to learn is to... Yeah you get the point. This car is going to make a mechanic out of you yet.

Bri Bro

This might help
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-05.htm

CyCloNe!

you can remove the switch without taking anything out, so keep the fans in... i just did this job... put the sucker on jack stands, drain some of the coolant (i skipped this and had a mini bath), undo the switch with a deep socket and install the new one, put the plug on and good to go. It will only take about 30min or less.

Willard Bridgham 3

+3

ali4

How do i get to the actual switch? I was having a hard time actually getting my arm all the way up to grab the plug (from the top I couldn't even see it). I have the car on drive up rams which may not be high enough. I think maybe I am going at it from the wrong angle I am considering draining the coolant from the radiator. This way I can (TRY) to do the turbo cooling pump as well...

Bri Bro

Follow the procedure and start taking stuff off so you can access it. Note that the sensor takes a really large socket. Clarks also has a procedure for the turbo water pump.

cruise98

Have you determined if both fans work in both high and low speed operation yet? The question was asked previously and it is very important to determine this.

It does sound like your thermoswitch is bad, but you could easily have other issues. With warm weather here, you need the cooling system to be in tip top shape! Are your hoses squishy and bloated, with crud seeping at each connection?

ali4

I unplugged the thermoswitch and the fan did not turn on so I know the swtich was bad.

Previous to this issue I noticed that the car would slowly heat up till the needle was just past the 3rd white line but below red line then I could see the needle begin to drop (i assumed the fans turned on and the temp began to drop). Was I this temp range normal?

cruise98

During normal operation, and you have the factory rated thermostat, the coolant temperature gauge should read at or near the lower white line (80 degrees C) and will creep up to the mid-point between the upper and lower white lines when sitting still in traffic. The upper white line represents 100 degrees C. If the temperature normally runs above the mid-point, you need to investigate immediately.
There are several temperature ratings of the thermo switches, so it is hard to say at what point they should turn on for your car. If they are not both running at high speed when the temperature is above 90, you might have a problem.
The fans are controlled by the cooling fan relay which is in turn controlled by the thermo switch, and the a/c system. Whenever they are on, both fans should run at the same speed at the same time. If only one is working or you only get high speed operation, there is a problem.

You should always have power available to the relay, so the fans can run at any time. Remove the cooling fan relay. It is the large rectangular silver relay in the back of the panel. Check the diagram on the fuse panel cover for the exact location. All of the following checks can be made at the fuse panel. You will need a bright light to see the markings on the fuse panel.

1. In the Bosch world, a terminal designation of “30” means it is un-switched battery voltage. Check for voltage at positions 30 M1 and 30 M2. You should get 12v + at both positions. If no voltage, check the wiring from the battery, the connections to the fuse panel, and the fuse panel itself. You will have to pull the fuse panel up, but disconnect the battery before messing with the fuse panel.

2. Check for continuity between ground and the temp switch position on the fuse panel. If you have continuity, the thermo switch is calling for fan operation. If the car is cold, the thermo switch is bad.

3. Fabricate a jumper wire with flat blade connectors on each end, and a 20a fuse in the middle.

4. Connect the jumper between M1 30 to M1, the drivers fan should run at high speed. If the fan does not run check for voltage in the connector at the fan motor, if you have voltage but the fan does not run, replace the fan motor.
5. Check the passenger fan by connecting the jumper between M2 30 and M2, the passenger fan should run at high speed. If not, the same drill.

6. Next connect the jumper between M1 30 and V1, the drivers fan should run at low speed. If not the resistor or wiring is bad. Check for voltage at the radiator fan connector and then check the resistance across the resistor.

7. Next connect the jumper between M2 30 and V2, the passenger fan should run at low speed. If it does not run, check the wiring and resistor.

If the car is still running hot and the fans are working properly, you have other issues, like a clogged radiator, water pump failing, air bubbles, bad thermostat, or a bad head gasket.

ali4

Keith - Thanks for that information. I am currently working on getting the thermoswitch replaced. Once that is switched I will take a look at the fuses. It sounds pretty complex, I am very bad with electrical work but will give it a shot and may be reaching out to you for questions.

The previous owner did the water pump, thermostat, and head gasket about 4,000 miles ago. I am not 100% sure if the radiator was done, I will also be getting a cooling system flush done which should get rd of any air in the system. Does the 951 purge itself of air in the cooling system? I was told it does, but the person may have been incorrect.

cruise98

It takes some effort to bleed the air out of the cooling system. It is not self-purging. There is a bleed screw on the fitting at the front of the head near the intake manifold that must be opened to fill and bleed the system. there are all sorts of opinions on the best way to do this floating around. I use a vacuum filling gizmo and then bleed with the screw open while gently blipping the throttle. It takes a while and you waste some coolant but it is not hard to do.