ZPmadA

I am considering buying a Narrowband gauge, and boost gauge to keep an eye on my turbo. I just want to make sure it is running fine. I understand a narrow band will be useless outside of WOT, but isn't the proper A/F most important during boost? If something is wrong at half throttle, won't it show up at full throttle? I'm not too excited about a wideband gauge because I don't want to drill an extra hole in my exhaust for the wide band sensor. I figure the narrow band gauge uses my existing O2 sensor that sends signal to the DME.

Will an aftermarket boost gauge help diagnose small vacuum leaks?

Is there anything else I need to help make sure everything is in order? Is a pyrometer really necessary? I just have an Autothority MAF and the rest is stock. I'm only looking for gauges that will help me prevent blowing up the motor should a FPR, damper, or something else of age go faulty. The car passed state emissions with no problems, but occasionally has a rough idle. My mechanic insists the Autothority MAF is screwing up the A/F mixture causing the rough idle, but I'm not sure. I am hoping gauges will help instil confidence.

Scott H

A narrowband is garbage, don't waste your money. Get a proper wideband setup. I removed my center section of exhaust and took it to a local exhaust shop and had the bung welded in for $20. You can cap it off if you ever decide to remove it.

Ultimately, if you aren't logging data, and just looking at it while driving you will miss something. You need a setup that can log, at a minimum, RPM, Vac/Boost, and Wideband O2. TPS is helpful, as is EGT. A knock counter can also be of great help depending on how deep you want to go tuning your engine.

An aftermarket boost gauge is good for knowing how much boost you are actually running, the stock gauge in the cluster is vague/limiting. It won't really help finding vacuum leaks or boost leaks unless they're big. You're best bet to finding vac or boost leaks is to do the traditional testing by either pulling a vacuum or pressurizing the intake track. Note that some boost leaks will not show themselves with only a vacuum test.

Paulyy

a narrow band only tells you if you're rich or lean. not by how much though so it really is usless. when i did a quick tune on my 951 using the narrow band with my AFMLink i guessed just past green should be safe, and sometimes it'll light up 4 even 5 leds at the same time.

best thing i did was buy my LM-2 that logs AFRs boost Rpm and TPS.

carlege

Considering you have no way of adjusting your AF ratio i think a Wide band might be a little excessive. Narrow band for the money will tell you if it starts running lean that you might need to back off a little, turn down the boost and look for a problem when you get home. A Wide band can do this too but its overkill for your setup and like what was mentioned you need data logging to make it really usable.

How much you willing to spend?


P.S. your mechanic is right about the MAF screwing up your AF ratio.

pudges951

If you decide you want a narrowband I have a Lindsey racing one I can sell ya.

CyCloNe!

have you adjusted the Maf? I remember seeing a lot of threads where they suggest with the car running slightly/slowly rotate the maf to get the optimal readings. APE (Autothority) seems to always have wacky a/f ratio's lol anyway.

zerMATT951

Here's a related question: I plan on installing a wideband O2 sensor, can I install that in the factory narrowband bung, run the sensor output into something like the LM-2 or AEM EUGO, then use the simulated narrowband output to feed the DME?

I've got all of the exhaust plumbing removed right now, so now's the time to install a 2nd bung for wideband O2 if that's the preferred route. (although I wish my LR 3" exhaust had come with that in the first place!)

Scott H

No. Too much pressure and too hot, it will kill a wideband quickly. Lindsey has a picture of where to install it under their tech-tips.

pudges951

Second what Scott said, def do not install it where the factory sensor is, install it down by the wastegate area.

zerMATT951

Thanks guys!

Bri Bro

Here. Should be between 10 and 12 OC position to keep water off of the sensor. Picture from LR.

theedge

IMHO, Boost pressure and a wideband are the most important.