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Is it a crap shoot if cylinders get scored?

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Old 08-26-2011 | 11:05 PM
  #16  
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LOL, nice pic! I can tell you're not very happy in that picture, like me, when I'm messing around under the hood... PITA these things to work on sometimes!
Old 08-27-2011 | 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnKoaWood
U.S. Chrome.. they will hone and re-plate the cylinder walls.. then you just need a set of Nicasyl compatible pistons (much larger selection).

PM Chris White for more info!
+1
Old 08-27-2011 | 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnKoaWood
No they do not all score, but they all do wear out over time..

Proper maintenance will extend the usable life, but EVERYTHING wears out!

The origional blocks, while revolutionary (sort of) for their time, were also so prone to wear that Porsche quit using the Alusil bores, in preference for Nicasil plated bores in an Alusil block / cylinder...

Prevention requires proper maintenance over time...
again +1

I hate you john!
Old 08-27-2011 | 08:31 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Alpine951
I guess I did not make my point so thgat every one understood. I am not wondering what to do about a block that currently has scored bores. I am wondering if scoring is inevitable on these motors. If I do a complete rebuild or buy a good stock bore engine is it inevitable that the bores will get scored? I see so many posts with scored cylinders. What can prevent this from happening?
I have a 150K mile motor with no scoring. Like others have said, I think it depends on how well the engine is maintained.

Good luck with Irene!
Old 08-27-2011 | 10:50 PM
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Well I guess I should have mentioned in my original post what if I track the car too because that is what I did with the original motor and hope to get back again. Oh yeah and what if I pump it up to 315... 325 rwhp?

Last edited by Alpine951; 08-27-2011 at 11:12 PM. Reason: forgot
Old 08-30-2011 | 02:14 AM
  #21  
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What can prevent this from happening?
One of the ways I think they get scored is just the everyday stuff of not thinking... Like, pulling the plugs without first blowing out the plug wells of the grit that is always in there - just waiting to fall into the cylinder. Watch for it the next time you're standing around waiting for your car to be PPI'd....Bruce
Old 08-30-2011 | 11:16 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ehall
again +1

I hate you john!
I know, and I am ok with it!

Originally Posted by Alpine951
Well I guess I should have mentioned in my original post what if I track the car too because that is what I did with the original motor and hope to get back again. Oh yeah and what if I pump it up to 315... 325 rwhp?
RWHP... sleeve or Nicom coating... dont argue, just do it..

That is roughly double the origional HP output level... you CAN get there on a stock botom end... and it will stay there for a short period of time... sleeves or Nicom can prolong the amount of time it is up and running!

AND someone asked for a budget rebuild DIY...
1) remove motor
2) tear down to bare block
3) Send to U.S. Chrome for Nicom coating
4) Buy Nicom compliant pistons (larger selection than alusil compliant pistons)
5) Buy seals, gaskets, sealants, etc..
6) reverse the abov till you have a running car again!

OR

1) Remove motor
2) Ship to Chris White
Old 08-30-2011 | 11:26 AM
  #23  
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I just had my engine bored out a bit and then had sleeves put it to match the original displacement. Works fine for me!



Old 08-30-2011 | 12:26 PM
  #24  
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Cost of used block that is good to go, vs sending scored block out for sleeving/coating??

Pull motor, ship to Chris... ball park $$ ??
Old 08-30-2011 | 02:51 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by toddk911
Cost of used block that is good to go, vs sending scored block out for sleeving/coating??

Pull motor, ship to Chris... ball park $$ ??
Used block ? ?
coating ~$1K (+$1K for new pistons)
sleeving ~$1kish depending (+$1Kish for pistons)
ship to chris ~$ sky is the limit, mainly due to "while in there"

350 RWHP... priceless



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