oi-punx

I will be installing an aftermarket boost gauge on my '87 951 within the next few days. I've researched the installation procedure extensively over the past three days and am still left with a few questions. Any advice or help is much appreciated.

1. I've decided to tap the boost line up near the manifold because I don't want to butcher the line down near the KLR. Where is the most convenient place to do this that leaves a very clean appearance? It appears that this guy T'd into the line going to the Fuel Pressure Regulator as seen in this thread on pelican
<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61100&highlight=boost+gauge" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=61100&highlight=boost+gauge</a>

Does this work??


2. I can see where the factory line enters the firewall, but it doesn't appear that there is any space to fit another boost line for the aftermarket unit in my car at that entry point. Is it better to run the line through the opening at the other end of the car as seen in Geoff's pictures? Access seems very limited either way. Am I missing something here?

3. The general consensus for the power source seems to be the ashtray light. I pulled mine out today and was surprised to see a red wire and two green wires. Which one is ground?


Thanks!

JLeake

I don't understand your logic with not wanting to 'butcher the line" near the KLR. You're cutting the line one way or another; why not make things easy on yourself and save routing the line through the firewall? It's easy to tap into using a 7/64 rubber tee.

As far as the power tie-in is concerned, I used the line going to the radio, so can't comment specifically on the ash tray wires. Why don't you just use a test light or multi-meter to find out what's hot when your lights are on?

Dave Sims

<a href="http://www.btinternet.com/~dmsims/944t/boostgauge.htm" target="_blank">http://www.btinternet.com/~dmsims/944t/boostgauge.htm</a>

oi-punx

JLeake,

If you look at Geoff's install pics on the above link it appears that he T'd the line near the FPR. Correct me if i'm wrong but it appears that if he
wanted to reverse the installation he'd simply have to remove the T and reconnect the soft rubber line. I realize that there is nothing wrong with
cutting the hard line near the KLR, but I don't want to have to replace it in the event I mess things up down there. Call me paranoid, but
i'm also fearful of leaks should I choose to uninstall the gauge and "patch" the hard line with a 7/64 piece of vacuum tubing. If I can't find a way to run the line through the firewall then I will just cut the KLR line as many others have done.

Regarding the ashtray light. Pardon my ignorance, but I know next to nothing regarding electrical circuits/electronics. I used my multi-meter last night on all three wires in a vain attempt to see which were hot. I didn't get a reading at any of the wires after grounding the black probe to the door latch and console phillips head screws. I tried various settings on the multi-meter as well including both AC and DC. Perhaps I need to recheck my connections and retest either that or I need to learn how to use the multi-meter correctly.

Thanks for the reply!

oi-punx

Just an update. I received the gauge yesterday and installation was a snap. I T'd into a Vac line connected to the 2nd banjo on the manifold (next to the KLR line). I then routed the new line along the firewall using the existing zip ties all the way to the driver's side edge of the rubber strip that lines the top edge of the firewall. The line then was tucked in front of the Fuse/Relay box going back toward the passenger side about 9" or so where it slips down into the large rubber grommet as seen in Geoff's pictures in my first post. To penetrate this grommet I cut a very small slit. Inside the driver's footwell I routed the line behind the brake pedal and out of the way using an existing wire to zip tie it. It then snakes back behind the console below the radio. This took about 30 minutes max, most of that time was spent trying to get the line into the slot below the radio.

Wiring the connections to the ashtray light took a bit longer. I put my multi-meter to use and found that the red wire is actually ground. One of the green wires was power. I spliced up near the light itself and ran my new wires under the shifter and up near the new boost tube. The gauge works perfectly and as suggested before by someone else, using the ashtray light doesn't make the gauge too bright. I did blow a fuse as the - and + connections on the gauge weren't labeled. Hopefully this will help someone else out who wants to install an aftermarket boost gauge.

Cheers,
-Ben

2+2

Ben, did you use some type of a plate? Are you going to install a air/fuel meter?

oi-punx

Yes, i'm using Lindsey's console plate. Actually I should say I WILL be using Lindsey's plate as it should have arrived today, but didn't. It seemed to be the most reasonably priced. I haven't installed an A/F meter yet, although I researched it. My only mod is an LBE at the moment. But after taking a ride in a 300+ RWHP 951 several months ago i'm beginning to plan light mods for the future.