Turby

What are all the nessasary parts needed to do this converstion? Any pros/cons, or are there a variety of options concerning pistons/cylinder heads????? I am starting to think this will be a whole lot easyer than the 3L. I remember someone saying they had a 3L crank for sale, too bad I cant remember who. Thanks fellas...

Russ Murphy

I think you can bore and sleeve the block up to 2.8 with no crank change. I talked to Garrity about several different options when I got the rebuilt head from him. They were all pretty expensive.

Bri Bro

You can also just stroke the engine and leave the cyclinders as is.

*eurospeed951*

You can do a stroker kit which I think you only need a crank and rods for, or you can go with the all bore 2.8 I just got my 2.8 block back. It had chromolly sleves bored from 100mm to 103mm and I am useing JE pistons. The rest of my parts should be here next week and I hope to start building it by the end of this month. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Ski

Garrity has a 2.8L kit in the classifieds for $3595!!! It is a 3.0 crank, Pauter rods, JE pistons that were custom, to use in the engine without sleeves, or so he states.

Turby

I couldnt find that 2.8 kit??? Exactly where was it???

951carter

Hey Turby, your car sounds interesting. What are the odds of gettin' some pics?

Turby

I am not too keen on how to post pics, search for "sideskirts" and in that thread you will find some pics.

Ski

951: Stroker kit for sale. Only one left
Categories: 924-944-928 Parts For Sale No
Photo

Ad Number: 32058
Date Posted: 06/12/2002
Contact: Garrity
St. Louis, Missouri 63130
USA
Price:
E-Mail: garrity928@mindspring.com
Web Site:



Description
I have one 951 stroker kit left for sale.

It is a really nice setup of only the finest parts. It includes a brand new 968 crank that is fully race prepped. It has gallery plugs tapped and installed, cross drilled, polished, knife-edgeds, stress relieved with cryogenics, deburred, and slicked up and ready to go.

New PAW high performance light weight connecting rods

New PAW forged racing pistons that work in with the factory bore, no sleeves required.


The complete setup usually ran $5495

First come, first serve price is $3995.

The last setup I have is first come first serve. No whining if you miss it please. This is the last one I have for sale, sorry.

Thanks,

Garrity garrity928@mindspring.com

Robby

Eurospeed-

I think you mean you have a 106mm bore- not 103mm. The 106mm bore will take your displacement to 2786cc whereas the 103mm takes you to 2631cc. I BELIEVE the 968 crank is 87.9 vs the 951 of 78.9, if so, JUSt the crank will get you 2763cc- add the two together and you get 3104cc. The prob w/the bore seems to be head gasket failure- not sure about Jon and Tim's bad boys- maybe they'll prove that it CAN be done reliably- I HOPE so- I've GOT to have something to shoot for- at this point I would want just the crank for the extra TQ- I'm a little leary of BIG bores w/sleeves, etc- I'm NOT an engine builder though, nor am I rich enough to experiment <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

StanUK951

This may sound thick but I thought I read somewhere that fitting 944S2 crank and conrods using the standard turbo pistons gave a capacity of 2.8 litres without any other mods

Is this correct??

Robby

Sure, the S2 has the same displacement as the 968 w/the same crank, etc- I'm not sure if pistons need to be replaced or not, when using one of these cranks in the 951 though, but the end result would be a 2.8L- well, it's a hair under, but it rounds to 2.8 and is almost a FULL 300cc of displacement increase giving loads more low end TQ...

StanUK951

Probably another dumbass question to you guys but how hard is it to fit an S2/968 crank and rods? Is it an engine out job or something that can be done by removing the sump? <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

John Anderson

Installing a 3 liter crank would also mean you need to install custom shorter rods or pistons that have had the the pin locations moved.

As far as an inframe or out of frame job for doing the conversion, I've never done it in the car, so I can't say as to how hrad it would be :-) I can say, by the time you get to the crank and have everything cleared out, its probably easier to just drop the motor..besides, this gives you a great chance to get everything freshened up and cleaned!

Robby

Yeah, what John said- I've never heard of anyone ever trying to do it w/out removing the engine. Even if you could, AND it were easier, you wouldn't want to unless you had extremely low miles, or had just rebuilt the bottom end recently. I think it's absolutely imperative to do a basic rebuild when doing such a mod...

Robby -hoping to get my car back w/new front seals, timing belt, etc, so I can start saving for my rebuild... Does it EVER end???