Oil leaks and Waterpump
09-08-2002, 11:46 PM
#1
Instructor
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Carnation, WA
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Oil leaks and Waterpump
Hey All,
I am replacing all of the seals on the front of my engine in an effort to tame the oil leaks. As always the project is turning out to be more than I thought it would. Now that I have the car this far apart it would seem that additional preventive maintenance makes some sense. Also I have disapointing discoveries to report about the work that Paul Weir's shop (since gone ouyt of business) when I purchased the car a little more than a year and a half ago. At the time I had the shop replace the belts and tension them, I even brought the car back a few weeks latter to have the belts retensioned. Upon dissasembly I discoverred:
1. Both belts were so loose that I was able to slip them off without moving the tensioners. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />
2. A bolt was free under the timing cover. It had landed on top of the water pump drive where friction had heated it so that it melted into the cover and wedged it against the pulley. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />
Now the questions:
1. Is any play acceptable on the water pump?
2. The belt for the balance shafts appears to be narrower than the pulleys. Could an 86 turbo use the wider 16v belt?
3. The inside edge of the timing belt appearred chewed. Any ideas for causes?
4. I bought the Krickett II from Napa for $12 bucks. The scale goes from 300 to 50, any ideas what to retension the belts at?
Thanks for your help.
Cheers,
I am replacing all of the seals on the front of my engine in an effort to tame the oil leaks. As always the project is turning out to be more than I thought it would. Now that I have the car this far apart it would seem that additional preventive maintenance makes some sense. Also I have disapointing discoveries to report about the work that Paul Weir's shop (since gone ouyt of business) when I purchased the car a little more than a year and a half ago. At the time I had the shop replace the belts and tension them, I even brought the car back a few weeks latter to have the belts retensioned. Upon dissasembly I discoverred:
1. Both belts were so loose that I was able to slip them off without moving the tensioners. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />
2. A bolt was free under the timing cover. It had landed on top of the water pump drive where friction had heated it so that it melted into the cover and wedged it against the pulley. <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />
Now the questions:
1. Is any play acceptable on the water pump?
2. The belt for the balance shafts appears to be narrower than the pulleys. Could an 86 turbo use the wider 16v belt?
3. The inside edge of the timing belt appearred chewed. Any ideas for causes?
4. I bought the Krickett II from Napa for $12 bucks. The scale goes from 300 to 50, any ideas what to retension the belts at?
Thanks for your help.
Cheers,
09-09-2002, 10:40 PM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: San Jose
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Matthew,
I just did my belts, seals, waterpump, oil filter housing seal, p/w steering reservoir w/ updated feed line. It was a lot of work and there are many unexpected things which require additional time to fix and workaround.
I would highly recommend the oil filter housing seal replacement. Everything is apart and it's significantly easier to get access now as oppossed to later when the waterpump is in the way and you have to fight the steering pump, oil filter, ... to replace the seal. BTW, the oil filter has to come off so the heat shields can slide out; this means you have to change the oil as well. See my post about a 6 weeks ago (scan for oil filter housing). I kind of outlined what you need to do and all the bolts w/ how to access those botls for removal. I posted it since nobody's posted this before for a 951 and I could refer back to it when I needed to perform the task later on for another vehicle. I'm not expecting to do this again for this 951 with all the aircraft-grade gasket maker I put on there.
Getting all the right components was one of the biggest hurdles since there's been some many updates to the 944 components from Porsche you don't know what's current and what's old. I had the PET CD (Porsche parts CD) and this was a lifesaver! It had all the updated information which superceded some part numbers and then added new parts in some cases.
Anyways, back to your questions:
1) Waterpump -> there should be no play in the pulley at all. My new Lasco pump had no play and the original one in the vehicle didn't leak and had no play either. You have to get the updated pump w/ larger roller and the chrome guard rail that needs 2 extra bolts.
2) I only used the narrower belt because that's what is recommended by the factory. I would not want to go messing around with a wider belt and cause problems, especially after you put the kind of time & effort that's required to do the replacement of the belts.
3) Inside edge of timing belt might have been worn out by the loose bolt as it was jumping around in the enclosed belt area before it melted itself into the belt casing. There's really no other explanation for this.
4) You bought the wrong Kricket tool, just like I did. I had to return it back to Napa and get the Kricket 1 tool (KR1). I didn't find this out until a few days before actually requiring usage of it, but caught it in time to exchange it for the one with the correct tension range (30lbs to 100lbs?). You probably read the same post I did where the guy recommended the KR2 product instead of the correct KR1 tool.
Let me know if you've got other questions. There are lots and lots of details I haven't mentioned due to lack of space.
*****
I just did my belts, seals, waterpump, oil filter housing seal, p/w steering reservoir w/ updated feed line. It was a lot of work and there are many unexpected things which require additional time to fix and workaround.
I would highly recommend the oil filter housing seal replacement. Everything is apart and it's significantly easier to get access now as oppossed to later when the waterpump is in the way and you have to fight the steering pump, oil filter, ... to replace the seal. BTW, the oil filter has to come off so the heat shields can slide out; this means you have to change the oil as well. See my post about a 6 weeks ago (scan for oil filter housing). I kind of outlined what you need to do and all the bolts w/ how to access those botls for removal. I posted it since nobody's posted this before for a 951 and I could refer back to it when I needed to perform the task later on for another vehicle. I'm not expecting to do this again for this 951 with all the aircraft-grade gasket maker I put on there.
Getting all the right components was one of the biggest hurdles since there's been some many updates to the 944 components from Porsche you don't know what's current and what's old. I had the PET CD (Porsche parts CD) and this was a lifesaver! It had all the updated information which superceded some part numbers and then added new parts in some cases.
Anyways, back to your questions:
1) Waterpump -> there should be no play in the pulley at all. My new Lasco pump had no play and the original one in the vehicle didn't leak and had no play either. You have to get the updated pump w/ larger roller and the chrome guard rail that needs 2 extra bolts.
2) I only used the narrower belt because that's what is recommended by the factory. I would not want to go messing around with a wider belt and cause problems, especially after you put the kind of time & effort that's required to do the replacement of the belts.
3) Inside edge of timing belt might have been worn out by the loose bolt as it was jumping around in the enclosed belt area before it melted itself into the belt casing. There's really no other explanation for this.
4) You bought the wrong Kricket tool, just like I did. I had to return it back to Napa and get the Kricket 1 tool (KR1). I didn't find this out until a few days before actually requiring usage of it, but caught it in time to exchange it for the one with the correct tension range (30lbs to 100lbs?). You probably read the same post I did where the guy recommended the KR2 product instead of the correct KR1 tool.
Let me know if you've got other questions. There are lots and lots of details I haven't mentioned due to lack of space.
*****