apitts73

also...yes it was a solid lifter motor.

rlm328

You just need a new block and then switch all the goodies from the old block to the new one. Try and get hold of Lart he maybe able to fix you up with a good 3.0L block. There was one on here in the last couple of weeks that was pretty reasonable.

Tom M'Guinn

I'd want to know what was wrong with the old motor before replicating it. Cracked cylinder may have been hydrolock from coolant getting into the cylinders, but I'd want to get to the bottom of the valve contact in any event. If LR didn't install the head, which I gather from one of your posts, then are you sure the solid lifters were set up properly? Did you ever check to confirm there was adequate piston to valve clearance? A low tech way for doing so is to clay or Play-Dough on the piston top and then install the head and rotate it with the cam timed. You can then disassemble and check to see how close the valves came to the tops of the cyliders (and/or if those marks are on-the-job relief cuts...).

apitts73

for sure i will be on the look out for a good deal on a 3.0l block from now on.

tom,

im pretty sure those marks are from before....almost positive the head was installed the right way and timing was done correct....as for the cam...it shouldn't have changed from when LR set it up in the beginning would it?

actually LR set it up when they replaced the cam,etc.....so im pretty sure it was set up correctly.....maybe needed some tweaking, but very close.

i think it was detonation from race mode and the chipboard set to default instead of image #4....possibly in part from back pressure too.

no matter what, when i put it(solid lifter cam) back on(3.0l or 2.5l) motor...i will check the clearance...is there an easier way to check rather then play-dough and taking it back apart? if not then so be it...ill do it that way!

the reason why i would rather use the vitesse stuff on the stock motor is its already wired into the car.

schip43

I'm sorry man I can't even imagine how much this must suck! It sounds like you just had to many hands involved in the overall project and no one responsible for the finished project or am I missing something?

Tom M'Guinn

I went from my 2.5 to my 3L without changing any of the VR engine management hardware, but was careful to ensure I was running the proper maps at all times. Just work with John to get yourself set up properly with the right images.

apitts73

thanks tom...for sure i will talk to john first.

is the super 75 something like the VR stage 5 turbo?

i cant blame anyone but myself....should have known more about everything on the car before i went driving around!

333pg333

I thought this motor had been completely built by LR and they just sent it to you? Did you just buy the parts and have it assembled locally? Who put on the head and timed the cam? The cam has to be retimed or set every time the head comes off and goes back on again. Do you have an adjustable cam wheel? Detonation won't cause valve marks in the pistons. Valves cause valve marks in the pistons. Although you can have both at the same time of course.

The 75 will be too large in terms of spool, not psi. So on a 2.5L it will be laggier, all other things being equal. From what one reads, the 75 is not ideal for a 2.5L so perhaps you can pickup a smaller turbo pretty cheap to run in the meantime.

apitts73

yes,
the motor was fully built by LR....but when it was first started, the cam seized because the only used part on the head was the oil pressure relief valve.

it was seized its self. so the cam starved of oil right from the start and only lasted and hour of idling.
the mechanic that took over after LR thought the lifters were noisy but it was mentioned that the solid lifters are a bit more noisy than stock...so they assumed the noise was from the lifters..not the cam seizing.
i guess it sheered off the pin for the adjustable cam gear when it seized...thats when the valves hit the pistons.
LR took the cam back and replaced everything...i dont think any valves were bent......set the lifters up the same way he did when he built the motor about a month earlier.
then my mechanic here put the head and cam back on....all they needed but didnt get was some tweeking to dial them right in.

the last 2 motors that blew HGs cracked #2 in the 1st one and #3 in the second one...and now #4 in this motor.....pretty sure from detonation and then coolant in the cylinder which then cracked it......I THINK, BUT DEFINITELY DONT KNOW FOR SURE.

another turbo means even more $$$$....but if a good deal came around i might!

adam

apitts73

also....after the cam blew, i decided to go with the VR maf/v-flex.
but i didnt set it up right...well i relied on the mechanic to make sure it was...and they obviously DIDNT!!

Thom

Sorry to hear this.

I would also suggest using the 2.5 engine while you sort the 3.0.
I'm sure you could sell the LR75/10 and get a good K26, you will always have the time to shop for another turbo when the 3.0 is rebuilt.

FWIW a friend is running a LR75/8 on his 2.5 and the engine is a bit laggy, say a bit laggier than a stock K26/8, but it is still driveable and a lot of fun if you like old school on/off power delivery.

apitts73

unless a good deal comes up on a turbo(other than a k26), i think i will use the super 75/10.

this motor has sat in a crate for a year. is there anything that i should do to it before installing it in the car? taking into account i have never taken a car motor apart before! bikes/snowmobiles...yes

trying to find a 3.0l block......sent out about 6 or 7 emails in the last hour.

Thom

I would at least take off the head to check the bores and if there isn't any corrosion.

apitts73

ther is no head on it...just short block.
im thinking of using my stage 2 head/solid lifter cam from the 3.0l

i guess there isnt much i can do aside from opening up the bottom end, but is that really necessary?
adam

Chris White

Definitely sounds like detonation from too much ignition timing to me. Bummer.
On the ‘good’ side (if there is such a thing) you didn’t damage other parts so all you need is a good 3.0 block, gaskets and bearings to redo the engine. The labor is the obnoxious part.