Rear hatch seal replacement
08-30-2002, 04:55 PM
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Rear hatch seal replacement
Hi,
I am mid prject replacing my rear hatch seal. Problem is that I have wires going from the top left unibody to the rear wiper and third brake light. There does not appear to be any way to detach these wires.
I am unclear if I need to unbolt the hinges in order to replace the seal?
Would someone who has any one done this before please describe the process. I have checked the archives and the shop manuals to no avail.
Thanks,
Matt
I am mid prject replacing my rear hatch seal. Problem is that I have wires going from the top left unibody to the rear wiper and third brake light. There does not appear to be any way to detach these wires.
I am unclear if I need to unbolt the hinges in order to replace the seal?
Would someone who has any one done this before please describe the process. I have checked the archives and the shop manuals to no avail.
Thanks,
Matt
08-30-2002, 11:42 PM
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This may not be the solution your looking for but I took the easy way out.
I'm embarrassed to say I cheated at replacing my rear hatch seal. I got so frustrated at trying to figure out the best way to remove the third brake light wiring to the point I CUT the hatch seal to make one long strand.
Then I simply took one end of the seal and snaked it through the wiring. I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (Part#051135-08001) to attach the hatch seal to the contours of the rear hatch.
You'll find that if you ordered the OEM rear hatch seal, you'll end up with at least 6" of excess rear hatch seal when you attach the two ends.
Be very careful when cutting the excess seal for a perfect fit.
I'm happy with the result. I hope you find a better way at replacing your rear hatch seal.
Good Luck.
<img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
I'm embarrassed to say I cheated at replacing my rear hatch seal. I got so frustrated at trying to figure out the best way to remove the third brake light wiring to the point I CUT the hatch seal to make one long strand.
Then I simply took one end of the seal and snaked it through the wiring. I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (Part#051135-08001) to attach the hatch seal to the contours of the rear hatch.
You'll find that if you ordered the OEM rear hatch seal, you'll end up with at least 6" of excess rear hatch seal when you attach the two ends.
Be very careful when cutting the excess seal for a perfect fit.
I'm happy with the result. I hope you find a better way at replacing your rear hatch seal.
Good Luck.
<img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
09-05-2002, 11:34 PM
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I ended up taking the hinges off. I ended up:
1. Openning the hatch and hung one end from my garager rafters.
2. Unhooked the shocks (pushed out small plastic lock pin from outside hatch end of shocks).
3. Undid the roof hinges. (Next door neighbor kid helped hold the hatch in place.)
4. Slipped in seal. (Found the same "extra" six inches. Reversed direction and fed the seal in tight using the pressure of the bend to feed it against itself and ended up without any extra. To say it differently: Hold the seal perpendicular to the hatch mating surface. Push it directly into allowing the 90 degree bend to push you around the circumference of the hatch as the seal engages the hatch rim.)
5. Lowerred hatch and re-attached hinges.
1. Openning the hatch and hung one end from my garager rafters.
2. Unhooked the shocks (pushed out small plastic lock pin from outside hatch end of shocks).
3. Undid the roof hinges. (Next door neighbor kid helped hold the hatch in place.)
4. Slipped in seal. (Found the same "extra" six inches. Reversed direction and fed the seal in tight using the pressure of the bend to feed it against itself and ended up without any extra. To say it differently: Hold the seal perpendicular to the hatch mating surface. Push it directly into allowing the 90 degree bend to push you around the circumference of the hatch as the seal engages the hatch rim.)
5. Lowerred hatch and re-attached hinges.
