Manual Boost controller v/s CV results
03-15-2003, 12:51 PM
#1
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Manual Boost controller v/s CV results
I thought I would post some obervations as to the different ways of connecting the ReliaBoost controller.
It was connected in line with the stock CV and adjusted for .8 bar on the stock gauge. This way boost did build faster, but not until you went past about 1 /2 throttle. Under 1/2 throttle, the car felt as stock. Also, after reaching .8 bar, it would drop to .6 bar as it reached redline.
I just connected it directly to the wastegate and disconnected the stock CV. At first I only was building .4 bar of boost. I had to adj the ReliaBoost 3 1/2 turns to get back to .8 bar. Now boost is there right now!! it will build at lower throttle openings and really makes the car feel like it has more low end. Also it will hold .8 bar all the way to redline.
Its a bit tougher to drive smoothly at lower speeds in 1st and 2nd, a lighter touch at the throttle is required, but not bad.
I like it much better this way.
Also, the hesitation problem I have been trying to nail down( on USA maps with O2 sensor) is greatly reduced, mainly because it passes from no boost to .4 bar so quickly. I have my O2 sensor disconnected and the DME plugged to run ROW fuel maps. The car really runs nice on the ROW Maps, cold or warm. My plugs are reading great and with a DVM connected to the O2 sensor I read .83 v at Idle(which is where it idles smoothest) between .7 and .8 at cruise and .92 at WFO at .8 bar boost.
It was connected in line with the stock CV and adjusted for .8 bar on the stock gauge. This way boost did build faster, but not until you went past about 1 /2 throttle. Under 1/2 throttle, the car felt as stock. Also, after reaching .8 bar, it would drop to .6 bar as it reached redline.
I just connected it directly to the wastegate and disconnected the stock CV. At first I only was building .4 bar of boost. I had to adj the ReliaBoost 3 1/2 turns to get back to .8 bar. Now boost is there right now!! it will build at lower throttle openings and really makes the car feel like it has more low end. Also it will hold .8 bar all the way to redline.
Its a bit tougher to drive smoothly at lower speeds in 1st and 2nd, a lighter touch at the throttle is required, but not bad.
I like it much better this way.
Also, the hesitation problem I have been trying to nail down( on USA maps with O2 sensor) is greatly reduced, mainly because it passes from no boost to .4 bar so quickly. I have my O2 sensor disconnected and the DME plugged to run ROW fuel maps. The car really runs nice on the ROW Maps, cold or warm. My plugs are reading great and with a DVM connected to the O2 sensor I read .83 v at Idle(which is where it idles smoothest) between .7 and .8 at cruise and .92 at WFO at .8 bar boost.
03-15-2003, 03:24 PM
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I am getting ready to bypass CV aas I have heard it makesa big diference. Did you run a new hose from banjo to wastegate or just connect the two hoses?
03-15-2003, 04:50 PM
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Do you need to unplug or plug anything on the CV when you bypass it? I plugged the original line from the CV to the banjo when I bypassed mine, but I'm not seeing the boost build up any quicker than stock. Am i missing anything?
03-15-2003, 05:51 PM
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You must run a line from the banjo to one end of the boost controller, the outlet of the boost controller then connects to the wastegate.
On the 'J' tube there is a small 1/4 tube that connects to a metal line that runs under the intake. Remove this line and plug the hole in the J boot.
You can leave the cycling valve in place, it wont be used at this point.
You cant simply bypass the CV, you have to add some sort of boost controller, like the ReliaBoost. If not, the wastegate will open right when it starts to build pressure.
You also dont want to simply use the LBE, it needs to be some sort of boost controller that has a way to bleed off pressure when the controller closes so the wastegate will respond quickly
On the 'J' tube there is a small 1/4 tube that connects to a metal line that runs under the intake. Remove this line and plug the hole in the J boot.
You can leave the cycling valve in place, it wont be used at this point.
You cant simply bypass the CV, you have to add some sort of boost controller, like the ReliaBoost. If not, the wastegate will open right when it starts to build pressure.
You also dont want to simply use the LBE, it needs to be some sort of boost controller that has a way to bleed off pressure when the controller closes so the wastegate will respond quickly
03-15-2003, 05:53 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by coolhand:
<strong>Do you need to unplug or plug anything on the CV when you bypass it? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">When I did it on my car, I also plugged the line from the CV to the intake boot. You can pull the line off the boot and plug the boot itself.
<strong>Do you need to unplug or plug anything on the CV when you bypass it? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">When I did it on my car, I also plugged the line from the CV to the intake boot. You can pull the line off the boot and plug the boot itself.
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03-15-2003, 07:56 PM
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No,
The banjo bolt is on the turbo outlet pipe, the hard pipe that runs over your aircleaner to the right side(passenger side) of the intercooler. The J boot runs under the other(drivers side)intercooler 'hard pipe. It comes out of the air flow meter and is rubber and shaped like a 'J' hense...J boot. Look on the side of the J boot and you will see 2 rubber hoses that run to steel pipes going under the intake. The large one comes from the oil seperator, the small one from the Cycling valve. Remove this hose and plug the hole in the J boot.
When connecting the ReliaBoost, the end with the small 'Bleed hole' connects to the wastegate, the other end to the Banjo bolt on the turbo outlet pipe. I wire tied mine to the fuel rail with the hose running along the fuel rail.
The banjo bolt is on the turbo outlet pipe, the hard pipe that runs over your aircleaner to the right side(passenger side) of the intercooler. The J boot runs under the other(drivers side)intercooler 'hard pipe. It comes out of the air flow meter and is rubber and shaped like a 'J' hense...J boot. Look on the side of the J boot and you will see 2 rubber hoses that run to steel pipes going under the intake. The large one comes from the oil seperator, the small one from the Cycling valve. Remove this hose and plug the hole in the J boot.
When connecting the ReliaBoost, the end with the small 'Bleed hole' connects to the wastegate, the other end to the Banjo bolt on the turbo outlet pipe. I wire tied mine to the fuel rail with the hose running along the fuel rail.
03-15-2003, 08:34 PM
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by awilson40:
<strong>I have my O2 sensor disconnected and the DME plugged to run ROW fuel maps. The car really runs nice on the ROW Maps, cold or warm. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">which coding do you have now for your DME (both plugs conected?) This is for Ch and swedisch cars. the RDW cars has one plug conected (that is for the missing elevation control unit) and the other is unconected the same a sin the US cars
How do you know which map the engine reads now? Do you have teh 24 PIN or the 28 PIN DME?
If I am not mistaken the 24 PIN has only one map. So ther e is no other map to read.
If you have the 28 PIN DME which is the map that your engine reads and what is different in this MAP? Ignition or fuel or both?
Konstantin
<strong>I have my O2 sensor disconnected and the DME plugged to run ROW fuel maps. The car really runs nice on the ROW Maps, cold or warm. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">which coding do you have now for your DME (both plugs conected?) This is for Ch and swedisch cars. the RDW cars has one plug conected (that is for the missing elevation control unit) and the other is unconected the same a sin the US cars
How do you know which map the engine reads now? Do you have teh 24 PIN or the 28 PIN DME?
If I am not mistaken the 24 PIN has only one map. So ther e is no other map to read.
If you have the 28 PIN DME which is the map that your engine reads and what is different in this MAP? Ignition or fuel or both?
Konstantin
03-15-2003, 10:05 PM
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28 pin DME and I have connected a 1.8 k Resistor to the connector that would connect to the elevation control.I then watch the voltage from the O2 sensor and can see the different readings from the 2 maps. USA results in a flat .82v from off idle to 3/4 throttle while the ROW maps have varing voltage from .74 v cruise .82 v moderate accel .9 v full throttle and .4 v on slight decell to 0 volts when off the throttle. Just for kicks I connected the O2 sensor and monitored the voltage. Same as above, It seems that the DME ignores a connected O2 sensor when on ROW maps.
I have no way of knowing what it different in the ignition curve.
I have no way of knowing what it different in the ignition curve.
03-15-2003, 10:25 PM
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yes the ROW map use NO O2 sensor and no cat converter that why it does NOT take care of this signal ;-)
It also use 98 Euro octane and not 95 Euro octane.
the 28 PIN DME has three different maps to read. The 24 PIN only one.
Konstantin
It also use 98 Euro octane and not 95 Euro octane.
the 28 PIN DME has three different maps to read. The 24 PIN only one.
Konstantin
03-16-2003, 12:19 AM
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Konstantin,
I was wondering, If the ROW maps ignore the O2 signal, then why is it recomended to ground the signal at the connector in the engine compartment?
And what is the difference between the ROW and the Swiss maps?
Thanks
I was wondering, If the ROW maps ignore the O2 signal, then why is it recomended to ground the signal at the connector in the engine compartment?
And what is the difference between the ROW and the Swiss maps?
Thanks