jdog

Anyway to test this contraption out of the car?
Need to know if all this stuff is good before I put half the engine back together.
Thanks.
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nickhance

yeah.. there should be three connections on the top. Hook up a power supply to two of them and it'll swing one way, then reverse the connections and it'll swing the other way.

Don't worry if you don't find the right 2 plugs on your first try.. it didn't blow mine up.

sm

jdog,

did it work? do you remember which connections you tested?

jdog

Going to try possibly right now.
i will post and let you all know.
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Bri Bro

If you look on the outside of the black connector on the idle controller, you will find the numbers 3,4,5 which align with the three pins inside the connector. 12VDC is first applied to pin 4 (center pin). If ground is then applied to pin 3, the valve will snap shut. If ground is applied to pin 5, the valve will snap open. The current should be around 2/3 of an amp so fuse/current limit the setup at 1 to 2 amps.

In normal operation, the two inputs are pulsed so the power should not be left on for any extended period.

sm

Brian,

If I test the idle valve with a 12v car battery connected directly, is that ok?

Thanks.

Bri Bro

Sure, but be very careful not to touch the leads together. A car battery can turn a 18 gauge hookup wire into a red hot melted mess in a heartbeat. That is why I like to use a cheapo in-line fuse that you can buy at any Auto center. Burns on the tip of you fingers really hurt.