Cycling valve question
#1
Cycling valve question
Hi all, I have an 88 951 and lately the car seems really sluggish. I have autothority stage two chips with a LBE. I just drove my buddy's 86 bone stock 951 and it pulls better (quicker and harder) than mine off the line. I checked my cycling valve and I hear no "clicking" when i rev the motor. I checked the voltage and I get 13V on one lead constantly, even at idle and the other lead I checked for resistance to ground....nada infinity. Do I have a messed up KLR...from what I read it seesm that there should be a constant ground and voltage only when the airflow door is open more than 60%... From the look of it I have a bad ground and a constant trigger to the CV. Is this right? What reading should I get? Thanks.
#2
No, the CV always has a +12v power-source going to it. The other wire is then grounded on & off by the KLR to activate the CV (defaults to no connection to ground). This is a duty-cycle signal very much like an injector and only a duty-cycle display like on high-end Fluke VOMs can show you its activity.
Quick test of CV and wastegate operation is to disconnect or clamp-shut the hose between the CV and wastegate. Gently do several runs with increasing throttle to see how boost builds.
Quick test of CV and wastegate operation is to disconnect or clamp-shut the hose between the CV and wastegate. Gently do several runs with increasing throttle to see how boost builds.
#4
Thanks for the replies...I really thought my KLR was for sure messed up (the factory workshop manuals win the prize for being vague). Right now it is boosting to 1.9 on the dash gauge so I do get boost. Just on the low end it really seems to bog down at first and then when on boost it just doesn't pull the way it used to (or how I remember it). I might try to put the Autothority banjo bolt in place of the LBE and see if that helps.