Need a header for 951....
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Claremore, OK
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Need a header for 951....
Just replaced the belts and noticed a crack in the 2/3 header. Anyone know where I can find a used one?
If I can't find a used one... I am considering getting a Bursch set from Tweeks for $249 and having them Jet Hot coated so that they will not rust. Any opinions on this?
Thanks
If I can't find a used one... I am considering getting a Bursch set from Tweeks for $249 and having them Jet Hot coated so that they will not rust. Any opinions on this?
Thanks
#3
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Save yourself a ton of bucks, remove the header, take off the heat shields, have them welded back up. The headers are stainless steel, so make sure the welder knows this. Wrap with DEI header wrap and reinstall. Much, much cheaper than replacement. Easy to do. Mine were cracked in three places, I did and put DEI back on it. Underhood temps are even lower than prior, and I only had $50 in the repair and some of my time.
Dave
Dave
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Ken, I didn't look closely... and you are correct. I do not think I want to shell out $1k either. Maybe I'll find something used or have them welded up as Dave suggests. Thanks
Dave, Thanks for the advice. I searched around and some people say weld 'em... and some say it will not hold up. How long has it been since you did it?
Also, I have done alot on my car, but I have never had to remove the headers, looks like it might be a little difficult. What is the best way to approach this. Any tricks I should know about?
Dave, Thanks for the advice. I searched around and some people say weld 'em... and some say it will not hold up. How long has it been since you did it?
Also, I have done alot on my car, but I have never had to remove the headers, looks like it might be a little difficult. What is the best way to approach this. Any tricks I should know about?
#6
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It is easier to remove the headers by removing the studs, you also have to unhook the heater pipe too. Take out 2/3 first, 1/4 second. The actual procedure is probably in the archives. It does require a bit of twisting them around a bit but they will come out. Mine were welded over a year ago. The trick is to make sure the welder is good and is competent with stainless steel. My buddy does it for a living with restuarant fixtures and makes ss stuff for hotrods too. His welds haven't failed yet. Way cheaper than $1k doncha think? Leaves dinero for other, cooler stuff.
Dave
Dave
#7
When you re-install the header, DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM TO THE MANUAL'S TORQUE SPECS. The official word from PCNA( from a tech session on this specific issue) is to just snug the nuts up until the flange makes even contact with the head, plus about a 1/4 turn more. Take a look at the header flange and you'll notice one hole is slotted to allow the head to expand without stressing the header too much. Remember that aluminum expands alot more than stainless steel. If in doubt, err on the side of too loose and snug up the header when the engine is hot, just enough to stop the leaks. Don't ruin your work with too much tightening!
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#9
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Join Date: Aug 2002
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i had my 86 headers welded, put them back on, and 2 of the pipes split the long way. i gave up and got b&b headers. its a nice top quality piece that fit perfectly. it also way more money than four pipes should cost, especially when i wasnt offered any kind of coatings(jet hot,ect.) it also took them almost 2 months to make it and send it. it sure does look nice though...this is just a guess but when i look at the various very high performance turbos they seem to have stock headers, anyone else notice this?