Building Aluminum Torque Tube.
01-24-2011, 11:40 PM
#49
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ehemmm.. that was PRE - flight.
ha.. no.. those shocks were GONE. So they just gave when I hit the gas pedal. BUT.. I did have 400+hp at the wheels at the time.. that did help a bit.
yes.. Spending a ridiculous amount of money and time to make a retarded light race car by taking out all the weight, or moving the weight closer to the center of the car to feel even lighter. The whole back of the car including aluminum bumper/wing frame weigh a total of 30lbs. Maybe less. It also will fit a few sanctioning bodies rules. Mostly geared towards NASA GT2. I wish I never took it this far... But now I must finish..
OMG.. SOooooooo funnny..
yes.. Spending a ridiculous amount of money and time to make a retarded light race car by taking out all the weight, or moving the weight closer to the center of the car to feel even lighter. The whole back of the car including aluminum bumper/wing frame weigh a total of 30lbs. Maybe less. It also will fit a few sanctioning bodies rules. Mostly geared towards NASA GT2. I wish I never took it this far... But now I must finish..
OMG.. SOooooooo funnny..
01-24-2011, 11:45 PM
#50
Three Wheelin'
^ I couldn't resist.
Looks like a fun project, the car as a whole too. You're using solid mounts for the transmission and engine correct? That would take a lot of strain off of the tt.
Looks like a fun project, the car as a whole too. You're using solid mounts for the transmission and engine correct? That would take a lot of strain off of the tt.
01-24-2011, 11:57 PM
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01-25-2011, 12:00 AM
#54
Nordschleife Master
01-25-2011, 12:12 AM
#55
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And keep Hydrogen OUT as much as possible (use high quality wire/rods, not cheap ones, as teh cheaper ones tend to hydorgenate faster, or have hydrogen in them from the get go)...
Looking at the pics of the welds, it appears you either had a dirty joint or nasty wire / rod as there is some carbon at the perifery of the weld (which also means there is a carbon layer IN the weld)... but it should be fine...
Looking at the pics of the welds, it appears you either had a dirty joint or nasty wire / rod as there is some carbon at the perifery of the weld (which also means there is a carbon layer IN the weld)... but it should be fine...
oh, thats just where I threw some heat up into the part of the casting that I hadn't cleaned. So yeah, I expected that part. no biggie. It's getting machined out to 3 7/8" right now.. I got the larger OD pipe in today as the sleeve.. i can't do anything with it until the machinist is done.. I fear he may take a while.. Why always slow at the machinist.. Always.
01-25-2011, 12:15 AM
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What will be different about yours? pics? links?
FC RX7 Turbo for $800 (Blown motor) and and L33 for $700.. Bought them both.. can you guess what happens next? Ill tell you.. it will STILL take a long time to get into anything because my time is limited.
But honestly, I think that just slowed down this project.. I didn't want that.. too many options kills me.
Last edited by 95ONE; 01-22-2012 at 12:09 PM.
01-25-2011, 01:06 AM
#57
Three Wheelin'
Are you tapping the aluminum TT to use allen set screw to hold bearings in place for driveshaft? Or is there another method to secure bearings, are you going with 4 OEM type or using Constantines huge bearings?
01-25-2011, 01:22 AM
#58
Bannana Shine
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I suppose flying off is more fun than falling off!
Originally Posted by JohnKoaWood
BTW, I have shipping confirmation on my new trans mount, so the solid will be coming off soon...
01-25-2011, 03:01 PM
#59
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The ID of the Aluminum tube is exactly the same a the steel one. (a hair smaller) The stock bearings should install as stock. Now that's said, I'll find out when I do it..
Last edited by 95ONE; 01-22-2012 at 12:10 PM.