Building Aluminum Torque Tube.
01-22-2011, 09:57 PM
#31
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yeh i had trouble recently welding under the car etc lighting wise ..I have found cheap welder's realy good at the power supply but the ancillaries are junk 1m earth lead and junky torche is after 3 years the cheap torch is dead and i can't get parts for it so i will set up a bigger binzel i have for it ...
and I've seen more expensive angle grinders explode than cheap ones
and I've seen more expensive angle grinders explode than cheap ones
01-24-2011, 03:14 AM
#32
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So I got the wheel wells done while I wait for machining/pipes. A ridiculous amount of staring and wondering how I was going to do this happened. so much time for something so simple... It was MUCH harder than you think to cut out that piece of black plastic so it would fit every angle and curve in the fiber glass. SO glad thats over.. I can't even think what it would do to me if someone hit the car.. lol. Harsh.. here are the pics.. \
01-24-2011, 07:03 AM
#33
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So let me get this right. You've boxed the rear fenders a la 924CGT and made some liners which seem to have both plastic and aluminium content? You going for 335s out back or just wider track? Guess the beauty is you can find the best width tyre to run based on trial and error. This is going to be a one off Bruce...cool!
01-24-2011, 08:39 AM
#34
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So I got the wheel wells done while I wait for machining/pipes. A ridiculous amount of staring and wondering how I was going to do this happened. so much time for something so simple... It was MUCH harder than you think to cut out that piece of black plastic so it would fit every angle and curve in the fiber glass. SO glad thats over.. I can't even think what it would do to me if someone hit the car.. lol. Harsh.. here are the pics.. \
Looks good, as for the Al welding... its all about heat.. preheat, heat of the weld, cool down, and if necessary heat treating the part as close to the origional heat treatment used... the internal structure of the Al is disturbed when welding, but if you use good heat throughout the process you should end up with a weld joint as strong if not stronger than the origional casting.. remember it is a porous casting, old parts will have to be throughly (sonicly if possible) cleaned prior to welding, or you will contaminate the weld...
And keep Hydrogen OUT as much as possible (use high quality wire/rods, not cheap ones, as teh cheaper ones tend to hydorgenate faster, or have hydrogen in them from the get go)...
Looking at the pics of the welds, it appears you either had a dirty joint or nasty wire / rod as there is some carbon at the perifery of the weld (which also means there is a carbon layer IN the weld)... but it should be fine...
01-24-2011, 08:43 AM
#35
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Chris, There are some areas that are well done, and there are some areas that are very strong and functional, but I didn't wast time on being pretty. Much of it is just roughed in and not really finished yet. . I'll start taking more pics of the good stuff in the coming months.. Other than that, most of it is just raw and needs finishing touches.
01-24-2011, 08:51 AM
#36
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01-24-2011, 03:43 PM
#37
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Well, at this point, I could run fiberglass over the whole thing in the back. The plastic is strictly to keep the wind from getting into the back of the car. John, I'm not sure how I would have laid the fiberglass without some sort of mold though.. I'm not a great fiberglasser to tell you the truth. It is finally making progress though.. !.. Running 305's out rear.
01-24-2011, 03:46 PM
#38
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So let me get this right. You've boxed the rear fenders a la 924CGT and made some liners which seem to have both plastic and aluminium content? You going for 335s out back or just wider track? Guess the beauty is you can find the best width tyre to run based on trial and error. This is going to be a one off Bruce...cool!
01-24-2011, 08:10 PM
#40
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I will be.. BUT.. I am saving that for AFTER I get this thing running..
Venting the rear wells will take more project work that I am losing steam for.
So far, i have about 3 items that will need more detail work that can wait until I've got it flying around a track. 
Venting the rear wells will take more project work that I am losing steam for.
So far, i have about 3 items that will need more detail work that can wait until I've got it flying around a track.
01-24-2011, 09:49 PM
#41
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Here's a few to remind you..
And one of my favorites before I took her apart... I installed Koni shocks soon after this!
Last edited by 95ONE; 01-24-2011 at 10:17 PM.
01-24-2011, 10:42 PM
#42
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Was the favorite before or after the header panel "fell off"?
OH and you can use pretty much anything as a mold for the FG wheel wells... cardboard covered with plastic wrap works pretty well for a basic mold... once the FG resin sets.. pull away the mold and voila!
OH and you can use pretty much anything as a mold for the FG wheel wells... cardboard covered with plastic wrap works pretty well for a basic mold... once the FG resin sets.. pull away the mold and voila!
