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951 Rejeuvenation Advice Request

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Old 12-02-2010 | 09:45 PM
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Default 951 Rejeuvenation Advice Request

Hi,

I just posted a 951 fuel line question on the 944 site, and didn't realize the locus of activity was here for the Turbo.

Basically we are helping an older neighbor blow the dust off his cherished 951. He bought it new in 86.

We just got done replacing his TB/WP/BS. Just under 50K mi. Original pump, belts. Pre-guard. Very loose. WP let-go on release of tension. We told him to go buy a lottery ticket. Lucky man.

Tomorrow it goes back on the lift for thorough engine cleaning and inspection.
Very wet underneath.

What should we be looking for? We know so far the fuel lines must be replaced, AC line is bulging, lots of oil leaking (pan?). I know the list of stuff every sitting 928 needs. Am clueless on 951.

Could you guys share your list of things stuff to inspect? What do you predict it will need?

Last edited by Landseer; 12-03-2010 at 12:57 AM.
Old 12-02-2010 | 10:33 PM
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Its supposed to leak oil! Just kidding. It's probably the pan gasket, and upon removal you'll see why.

Lindsey racing has a great fuel line kit.

I don't have much experience with water pumps, but the timing belt is a good idea especially if it's been sitting. I've been lucky with them myself.

Search for new owner threads here, people who know a lot more than me give much better advice to people, but thats what I would check
Old 12-02-2010 | 10:36 PM
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I would say power steering, oil pan or drain plug seal as well. Best to change the rod bearings while you are in there if its the pan. Also, while you have the front apart, I would replace all the front seals and reseal the cooler pack (make sure to get the proper alignment tool).
Old 12-03-2010 | 12:11 AM
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vacuum lines.

fuel filter.

+ things everyone else suggested.

how long has it been sitting exactly? Would not be surprised at all to see oil cooler seals or head gasket going bad. I'd just fix things as they break though.
Old 12-03-2010 | 12:44 AM
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Hard to say, but I think he inspected it every year and drove it every now and then during spring and summer.

Cooler pack / tool. Got to research that.

With only 50k miles, would you really do rod bearings?
We want to do all new coolant hoses of course.
A turbo-related vaccum valve on the drivers side has a broken diaphragm based on a vac test.


What else fails?
Motor mounts?
Old 12-03-2010 | 03:40 AM
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I bet ya dollars to donuts that the Power Steering fluid, is what's leaking
With that low mileage, I assume it's been driven on Sundays only
As for other stuff ... I have been down this road ... and it's very painful ...
It's while-your-in-there-itis ...
I have 42K on mine( orig owner) I didn't have anything really wrong with the car with the exception of a leaking cam seal. So when I was in there, I decided to replace the turbo... Then the, in-there-itis started
All Belts, Slave and Master cylinder, Water Pump, all rollers and idler pulleys, TB seal, all associated gasket and O Rings, including AOS O-rings (3),Thermostats and all the Cam Shaft Seals.. in addition to the Turbo ... The list is really endless, once ya open it up ... because its such a PITA to work on
But on the bright side, it's only taken me 5 yrs and counting
Best of luck
Regards
Ed
Old 12-03-2010 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by AScholtes
I would say power steering, oil pan or drain plug seal as well. Best to change the rod bearings while you are in there if its the pan. Also, while you have the front apart, I would replace all the front seals and reseal the cooler pack (make sure to get the proper alignment tool).
if you're doing the oil pan seal, i'd put some thought in to a three-piece lower crossmember (LR, or i got one from this guy) and send the turbo crossover to LR and make it a 2-piece.

next time he needs ANY work done around the oil pan, you're saving 10+ hours of labor.
Old 12-03-2010 | 08:40 AM
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Welcome Chris!

"What do you predict it will need?" It'll need alot of patience and cash. The best advice I can give is while its in inspection mode, make a list. Belts, WP, rollers, and hoses should liberate about $600 or so from the owner. I'm guessing all suspension rubber. Sway bushings, rack bushings, engine mounts, you name it. Adding them to the WP order will get the parts outlay over the $1000 mark. If a PS hose or two needs replacing it'll be another $250 or so. Oil pan gasket isn't that expensive, but with bearings, Xmember, and Xover mods, $2000 in parts will be on a UPS truck. The cracked headers can be welded, but options exist from $299 chinese to $2000 for coffee table art. If a new header is installed, the owner will probably want a new $300 wastegate and the HP that comes from a cat test pipe and exhaust. This will only add $800-1500, but will give a solid 25HP, providing he springs for $300 chips. New rotors and pads to bring all this mayhem to a halt should come in around $600 if he can resist new brake hoses to replace the 25 year old versions. This will add another $100 or so. A little more if he orders the wrong ones (check the fitting type to the caliper).

If the newly increased HP doesn't play well with the old, oil soaked clutch disc and flywheel, your friend is moving from Bronze to Silver in the 951 Games! That'll be $800 or so. Less if he scrounges, more if he wants a trick flywheel. Bleeding the slave is damned near free, though.

If $3000 in parts doesn't scare him, encourage him to move up to Gold! This will be a new AC compressor, plugs/wire/cap/rotor, struts, shocks, and possibly 968 M030 sways to match. One can be granted gold status by spending twice the value of the car in parts. Labor doesn't count.

Platinum is a whole other deal.

This is all in fun, but make sure your friend has a good sense of humor, and a stable job. Most of us have spent big $$ keeping these things alive. I've enjoyed my restoration and would probably do it again.

Anyone in gold or platinum class, please add a "+G" or "+P" so Chris doesn't think I'm crazy...
Old 12-03-2010 | 09:38 AM
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That's a cool reply Ted, thanks!

This gentleman drove the car on the track a few times when it was new, and he was probably late 40s at the time. He wants simply to make it solid again, so moving up in class might not be the path, but really cleaning it up is needed.

Original cap, rotor and plug wires are a replacement item, that's for sure.
Will know more later today, but looks like we have some rust under the battery and a bit on the floorboar. Am searching battery box rust repair. This will be a cut / TIG job.

It is white paint. Is white single stage? No clear, right?
Old 12-03-2010 | 09:42 AM
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My red was SS, but CC now. I thought they all were SS, but someone will pile on here and know. This sounds like a cool owner and a fun project.
Old 12-03-2010 | 10:51 AM
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Venturi delete
Castor blocks
Wastegate
Diverter valve
Rad hoses
IC pipe couplers
Expansion tank cap
Fuel pump and filter
Old 12-03-2010 | 11:09 AM
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Nice list^^^. Can you say more about venturi delete?

Is the clutch blue hose also an item that degrades?
Old 12-03-2010 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Landseer
Nice list^^^. Can you say more about venturi delete?
https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...te-thread.html
Old 12-03-2010 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Landseer
We just got done replacing his TB/WP/BS.
Great start. You've covered the most critical items first.

Originally Posted by Landseer
Tomorrow it goes back on the lift for thorough engine cleaning and inspection.
Very wet underneath.
Did you check the front seals (especially crankshaft, balance shaft) for leaks while doing the WP? Very common source of oil leaks.

The RMS can also be a leaker, but unless it's major, really only worth doing while replacing the clutch.

Originally Posted by Landseer
Could you guys share your list of things stuff to inspect? What do you predict it will need?
Hard to "predict" -- once you've got the obvious leaks fixed, I'd simply drive it for a while and keep an eye on things. For example, I've still got the original blue hose on my clutch cylinder after 180000 kms -- not to say these *don't* degrade, but if you replace every item that *can* degrade, you'll be (perhaps needlessly) racking up a huge bill!

I say if visual inspection doesn't show obvious problems, assume it's OK until you have a good reason to suspect otherwise. The notable exceptions to this rule (belts, wp) you've already attended to. Fuel lines are probably prudent -- Check Lindsey (I also gave you this link in other thread):

http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/944FUELLINES.html

If you are going into to the front of the engine again to do the oil seals, also make sure you check the belt rollers for wear. These are preventative replacement items I change automatically on every other belt change. Just to be sure.
Old 12-03-2010 | 01:09 PM
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Two additional thoughts:

If there is a lot of oil under the engine, it's likely the front inner swaybar bushings are rotten, if they they are the original rubber ones. ATF from the PS is a particularly unfriendly potential contaminant. If they do need replacing, I would suggest changing to Delrin ones, like these:

http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...re_mc-4100.htm

Oil-proof, cheaper than OE, and and give slightly better handling characteristics to boot!

Other random thought: If you haven't already, check out Clark Fletcher's great site:

www.clarks-garage.com

Just a fantastic resource for an introduction to maintenance and repair of all 944 models.


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