11" wheels fit?
#17
Rennlist Member
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11" wide rear wheels would work with the right offset. Each car as mentioned is slightly different but with the 88 and 89 S, they come with rolled rear fenders from the factory so it helps quite a bit if you want to run 295/305s in the rears as I did.
I have some pix in the thread named" Sport Seats before and after pix". Sport Technology II hollow spokes have the perfect offset and they are 11s- check it out.
I have some pix in the thread named" Sport Seats before and after pix". Sport Technology II hollow spokes have the perfect offset and they are 11s- check it out.
#18
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Don't forget that it's not just a matter of getting the numbers (width / offset) right and just bolting them on. Many cars seem to have different under fender spaces by comparison.
Your ride height, spring diameter & rates, shocks, camber, castor, fender rolled or not....blah blah blah....it's not always just getting the wheel offsets the same as someone else.
Your ride height, spring diameter & rates, shocks, camber, castor, fender rolled or not....blah blah blah....it's not always just getting the wheel offsets the same as someone else.
#19
Rennlist Junkie Forever
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I run an 11" with a 315 on the rear with -2.5 degrees camber. They fit great with minimal fender work.
The key is the camber. And since I track it, -2.5 degrees just so happens to be the perfect amount :-)
TonyG
The key is the camber. And since I track it, -2.5 degrees just so happens to be the perfect amount :-)
TonyG
Not without a bunch of clearancing of both the fenders (front and rear) AND the inner fender well on the rear... clearancing may depend on tire selection, but based on width of the rim, tread is gonna be WIDE.. and depending on the offset of the rears, you MAY be putting the inner lip f the rim dangerously close to the inner fender liner of the rear end... FWIW, the rear fender liners are METAL parts of the body, not plastic like the front!
I am running 8 fronts and 9.5 rears with 225 front and 295 (IIRC) rears on my 87 951, Koni sport full stiff, 300 lb front springs, lowered.. and had to roll all 4 fenders, and clearance the inside of the rear fenders to eliminate the rubbing on cornering.. MOST of the rubbing was the rear inside, but all 4 corners rubbed on the fenders as well.
I am not aware of any street cars running 11 inch rears, but there may be a few I am sure... I am also sure they have modified their cars to fit them! I wouldn't exceed a 10 inch wheel in the rear unless you has a desire to do a bunch of body modification to suit the rims...
I am running 8 fronts and 9.5 rears with 225 front and 295 (IIRC) rears on my 87 951, Koni sport full stiff, 300 lb front springs, lowered.. and had to roll all 4 fenders, and clearance the inside of the rear fenders to eliminate the rubbing on cornering.. MOST of the rubbing was the rear inside, but all 4 corners rubbed on the fenders as well.
I am not aware of any street cars running 11 inch rears, but there may be a few I am sure... I am also sure they have modified their cars to fit them! I wouldn't exceed a 10 inch wheel in the rear unless you has a desire to do a bunch of body modification to suit the rims...
#20
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Tony, what offset do you run for the rears with the negative camber? Do you think I can possibly go to 315 from my current 305 with a couple degrees of neg camber and avoid the rub? I know it's kink of overkill for street use but it looks so damn cool.
#21
Rennlist Junkie Forever
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I have a factory Cup2 9" rear wheel, which was widened 2" on the inside. Then I use a factory 930 rear 1" spacer to push the wheel out 1". Therefore, if you know the offset the factory 9" cup2 wheel, you can calculate from there.
-2.5 degrees on the street would be no good.
I would guess that I could probably get the wheel in with less negative camber and a smaller spacer. You'd have to play around with it.
TonyG