The car will be used fro DE and the street. Plan to keep the AC, power steering, and other stuff for the street.

I pulled the bumper cover to start to get and idea. I pulled the alternator cooler duct and placed both horns on the mounting stud for the alternator air duct.

For my other project I had purchased the LR brake backing plates and planed to run ducts where the fog lights are. I placed them on, but am thinking maybe pluming in something similar to stock getting air from the wheel well.

I would like to replace the stock PS with a smaller more conventional cooler. Would be pretty flexable to place, since it will be small.

Plan to start with the oil cooler. Since I am keeping the AC condensor, placing in front may be too much. Would like to run one larger cooler or maybe two stock ones.

Suggestions please.

Steve

 

First off, I'd keep the alternator cooling duct or make another one, the alternator is buried in there in the stock location and the only way it gets cooling air is from behind with that duct.

If you are eliminating the foglights, it should be pretty easy to fit everything, and your plan of putting the brake ducts there sounds like a good idea. On my car, I still have the foglights, but I managed to squeeze brake ducts in the front and an extra stock oil cooler (you will have to space it out from the side of the radiator to clear the A/C condenser hard lines and the factory headlight wiring harness, do a search and you will find ample info on this setup). Or you could get one of those KISS oil cooler setups or make your own.

 

I has looked at the differnt setups like dual stock, RX-7, and Kiss setup. Not really sure which way to go. Curious if one setup out functions the others.

I do plan to keep the fog lights. I was going to put the ducts there in my other project. I was going to start with the oil cooling then fit in the PS, brake and Alt cooling after.

I was curious if the factory cooler is more effective the other coolers such as Setrab or Mocal due to the thickness. Was not sure if a thicker core was better or what other important considerations to look for in selecting oil coolers.

It would be nice if I could fit a larger one in the stock location with other stuff removed to give more room.

Thanks
Steve

 

Steve,

I don't have any hard data indicating which setup is best; the only reason I went the dual stock cooler route is that I had a free stock 951 cooler sitting on the shelf in my shop, and it was pretty easy to bolt on the night before a track event!

I honestly think that a larger surface area, flatter oil cooler would be better from a cooling standpoint than the stock item. I think the stock 951 oil cooler is shaped the way it is because of space issues, not for optimum cooling.

Do a search for "BMW V12 oil cooler," there is a guy on this board who did a real nice job adapting an oil cooler from a BMW V12 and it fit nicely in the space between the intercooler and radiator, and looks to be a great solution if you're willing to cut holes in your bumper cover.

 

Thanks again for the help.

I moved the horn a bit since the BC would not clear it. I have seen some Fluidyne ones that looked nice that would fit in front of the condesnor. I was concerned acout triple stacking. Also I have alot of space where the factory one was since I plan to change the PS cooler. Also I put in the smaller windscreen resiviour.

I can fit a cooler 12" w x 7.5" tall. I have seen some with a puller fan mounted to the rear. Curious if the fan would be that useful for a DE car?

Steve

 

Tripple stacked intercooler / AC / Radiator has been working fine for some folks street / trackday cars..

Mine will end up with FMIC / AC / Raidator tripple stacked Oil cooler in the stock IC space, and PS cooler in the stock oil cooler location... brake cooling ducts thrown in for good measure!

 

Thanks john,

I was looking at Fluidyne brand with the following specs. It is a bit longer then the condensor, but since people seem to fit a stock cooler on either side, I feel it should fit.

Anyone see any problems.

Steve

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLD-DB30816-24/


Manufacturer's Part Number DB30816-24
Part Type Fluid Coolers
Product Line Fluidyne Fluid Coolers
Summit Racing Part Number FLD-DB30816-24

Overall Height (in) 3.500 in.
Overall Width (in) 28.000 in.
Overall Thickness (in) 3.500 in.
Cooler Construction Plate
Cooler Material Aluminum
Inlet Size -12 AN
Inlet Attachment Male threads
Outlet Size -12 AN
Outlet Attachment Male threads
Number of Cooling Rows 5
Core Height (in) 3.500 in.
Core Width (in) 24.000 in.
Core Thickness (in) 3.500 in.

 

Here is a picture of a thermostat fan driven oil cooler on the left of the intercooler, and a static oil cooler on the right. They are now fitted, and there is enough clearance for the bumper. There was some work done to the bumper to aid in flow.

I use air flow directional plates for brake cooling. I used to have hig hoses with ducts, and they didn't work as well as these. I believe they were from the 968 TS. These mount to the front lower control arms and the upper ducts attach to the front strut housings. Hated the issues with those big hoses getting kinked, torn, etc.

Chris White has a larger than stock alum radiator with an oil cooler on the bottom. I think this runs with the factory oil cooler. He has had great success with these units, even with some of the larger builds. Or this is what he said anyway. Not cheap, but if you also want a better radiator, this might be a good solution to solve both issues.

Maybe this will give you some ideas.

 

Alternatively he could swap in the smaller Nissan Quest alternator and gain some space and be able to ditch that air funnel for the old alt.

 

I have enjoyed watching your build, that is quite nice. I really am looking for good reliabilty and simplicity. I won't be shooting for high HP, maybe around 325 rwhp, until I feel i really need more.

I really think, the long thin FMIC would work best, then I will have plenty of room to run the break ducts for rotor cooling.

Also as far as cool air for the air filter behind the headlight, Is there a way to source from the front side of the wheel well. AIt has been so long since I had the stock plumbing there, all I curently have is a large hole in the engine bay, near the filter. If so I am assuming I can use for also ducting the alternator.

Thanks
Steve

 

Went with a Setrab 915. Core is 12" x 2" and total mounting is 16" across. I ordered the mounting bracket and AN 10 line adapters.

According to the rep I spoke w/ at BAT, it should be appropriate for about 350HP, which is about what I am shooting for.

With direct air supply, it should cool nicely. I will place in front of A/C condensor, any idea on the temp of the A/C condensor? I assume the oil temp is higher, but would like to know.


Once mounted, I will work on the lines.

Steve

 

Ok cooler installed and time for the brake cooling. It would be much easier if I was not keeping as a street car as well. Although I have been getting tempted lately to make strictly track use.

Anyway I have Lindsey brake backing plates and was thinking of installing the ducts on the side kind of perpendicular to the oil cooler. Basically where the plastic sides of air ducting is. I was curious if the air coming in would still be directed into the ducts when hits the oil cooler and a/c condensor?

If I can mount like this, it would allow me to place a small PS cooler on the right and a scoop to bring cool air to the intake behind the headlight.


Thanks
Steve