Darwantae951

I believe people think it is inaccurate because of the size. The needle is thick and the (can't think of the right word...) resolution of the increments is not very good. I, too, found both my stock gauge and my aftermarket mechanical VDO gauge to be fairly close.

running_cold924

parallax. is that the word?

AScholtes

Or if you have tons of other vacuum leaks, it will be terrible inaccurate as well... from experience

Paulyy

By pass valve delete = STu tutututuut

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxKp387_xQM



I actualy done this for a day for a JOKE & it sounded alright but not for out cars
btw i have a MAP so i didnt ruen any sensors or anything.

NOT RECOMMENDED

lee101315

The best thing you could do for that car is to remove the intake manifold, buy a Lindsey vacuum/Venturi delete kit, change the bov and j boot. Chances are if the j boot is torn and original, so is everything else.

As for Deleting the bov... Why? If your stock, nothing would really happen. Many old saabs and early jap turbos came without one. It's a great way to lose response between shifts and wear the thrust bearing on the turbo.

Also, running 1.2 bar on the gauge means the klr is in limp mode and opening the cycling valve early for a reason. Something is wrong, but I'd take care of your air leaks first

Tedro951

Since I'm not running anything but chips, I consider my gauge a "good/not good" boost indicator. If the boost gauge dances on the far right of the scale, its good. If it only gets just past the center, its not good.

Obviously, 20lbs would peg it (and call for a HG), but as long as it has a little dance, I'm happy.

+100 on the venturi delete, vac lines, etc. Diagnosing problems on this machine without knowing these items are good is throwing good money after bad.

Willard Bridgham 3

Soooo........ I go driving today and note that, if you look at the stock pressure gauge from the driver's seat there's not much parallax.

Porsche planned it that way, I'm guessin'.

CyCloNe!

Hey guys found my problem... my TPS was loose so it was causing problems with boost and normal driving. Only reason I mention the Bov delete was just curiousity, I have a brand new metal one so it's fully function.

As for the hole in the jboot I did a temp fix, but I have a vacuum leak somewhere and I'm not sure where... I though it would be on the jboot but I plugged it up and there's no air coming from it... My vac gauge (aftermarket) is reading 11hg when it was 20-21hg.. checked all the lines and sprayed carb fluid every where and I can't find it.

Black51

Well if you don't have a venturi delete, I'd be willing to bet it's somewhere in there.