K27/8 modern equivalent (Garrett)? Turbo tech, etc
#31
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Sorry but what turbo is this and at what boost? 3071 or 76? What hotside? Assuming you mean these were run with a stock head back in '08? Is this a max of 303whp? Damn that's the most realistic I've seen here in a while.
I know of someone down here who runs a stock head, big cam, big exhaust, big FMIC and hit the same hp at about 23psi...Guess you were at 18psi for the same whp of course.
I know of someone down here who runs a stock head, big cam, big exhaust, big FMIC and hit the same hp at about 23psi...Guess you were at 18psi for the same whp of course.
#32
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This was 1.2 bar. The exhaust is .63ar housing specifically for the 944 and it has a specific compressor housing from tial. When I ran this I had a pretty stock motor with only Vitesse MAF, piggy back and v-flex. This was also an initial tune. For a street turbo this is great. For short track it is absolutely awesome due to the mid range.
#33
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Well if your dyno reads -5% then ours must be significantly worse. I thought your chart was one of the more realistic ones I'd seen lately around here. Recently tried a pull at 23psi with a stock head, big cam, big fmic, big exhaust, Tial GT3076R .82, VFlex and aggressive E85 map, and got the same number as you. Think our dyno's local nickname of 'The Heartbreaker' is most apt. Guess our dynos are just not up to scratch.
#34
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Well if your dyno reads -5% then ours must be significantly worse. I thought your chart was one of the more realistic ones I'd seen lately around here. Recently tried a pull at 23psi with a stock head, big cam, big fmic, big exhaust, Tial GT3076R .82, VFlex and aggressive E85 map, and got the same number as you. Think our dyno's local nickname of 'The Heartbreaker' is most apt. Guess our dynos are just not up to scratch.
#36
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83lbs, 3 bar fpr, 044....nothing wrong with my car. It's as fast as the best driven, sorted GT3s in our club. It doesn't sound right because this dyno doesn't read what the customer wants to see. It reads what the car is doing.
#38
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How do you like the LR super 53?
I had a super 53 drove it for less than 1,000 miles but was getting so much lag it was a joke the car wasen't making any real power under 5k. I would be curious to see your dyno runs.
I had a super 53 drove it for less than 1,000 miles but was getting so much lag it was a joke the car wasen't making any real power under 5k. I would be curious to see your dyno runs.
Next Tuesday I should have dyno numbers on my very basic build. I went with LR's Super 53 over the 48. Dave Lindsey said that spool up will be within about 100 rpm of the two. Initially I was disapointed with spool and then discovered a vacuum leak at the blow off valve. I have been very happy with the performance PLUS with the addition of a MAF and larger exhaust will improve greatly (along with higher boost levels!).
I still have the stock AFM and only a 2 1/2" exhaust with test pipe. Other basic mods are listed in my sig.
Dyno pulls are scheduled next Tuesday at 11am!
I still have the stock AFM and only a 2 1/2" exhaust with test pipe. Other basic mods are listed in my sig.
Dyno pulls are scheduled next Tuesday at 11am!
#39
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I am now VERY happy with the LR 53! I think there were a couple factors involved that I outlined in the PM. I still have the AFM and 2 1/2" exhaust and the car is now breaking the big 285's loose in low gear and when accelerating hard from low speed corners (and I do have an LSD)!!
Dyno appt. this Tuesday
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Drove about 150 spirited country miles this morning and was thrilled with the car once again
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#40
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#41
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If all is okay with your setup, thats the lowest reading dyno i've ever heard of. And BTW just because it reads low, does not mean accurate. Which a lot of people on rennlist seem to think is the same.
#42
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Well said!
This is not exactly correct. If you are restrictive, then you will have back pressure whether it be a #6, #8 GT28, etc...or inversely, you will be laggy by trying to combat back pressure simply by upsizing HS's(#10, GT35, etc...).
You need to properly mate/upgrade your exhaust no matter which route you choose. To swap turbos yet stay with same exhuast, is an excercise in future futility and performance dissatisfaction, not to mention the increased cost to go back in and tear it all back apart to correct this shortcoming. A correctly exhausted 27/6 can see 330rwhp all day.
With that in mind a properly prepared (READ: Healthy) motor with suitable supporting modifications will have a great response & performance with a #6 or a #8. The mindset that I see alot on here~Just bolt on a new turbo and get all this horsepower~is BS, or more accurately usually followed by a thread:
What's wrong with my car?:
~I bought a $2000 turbo and Ebay chip an now my car runs like crap.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
The turbo, while very important, should not be the first thing addressed when beginning to modify these cars. It is merely a component in a build, that is dependent in whole on the sum of the total modification.
You need to properly mate/upgrade your exhaust no matter which route you choose. To swap turbos yet stay with same exhuast, is an excercise in future futility and performance dissatisfaction, not to mention the increased cost to go back in and tear it all back apart to correct this shortcoming. A correctly exhausted 27/6 can see 330rwhp all day.
With that in mind a properly prepared (READ: Healthy) motor with suitable supporting modifications will have a great response & performance with a #6 or a #8. The mindset that I see alot on here~Just bolt on a new turbo and get all this horsepower~is BS, or more accurately usually followed by a thread:
What's wrong with my car?:
~I bought a $2000 turbo and Ebay chip an now my car runs like crap.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
The turbo, while very important, should not be the first thing addressed when beginning to modify these cars. It is merely a component in a build, that is dependent in whole on the sum of the total modification.