Factory v. Raceware Studs
10-10-2010, 05:20 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It will be similar to the current motor, but I am hoping to use oversized studs (like those used by milledge), lower compression mahle pistons (the andial pistons cc out to 8.7:1 or so despite what the box says), and a cometic gasket instead of o-rings and a wide fire. Also planning for a slightly freer breathing 2.7 8v head so I can get more hp without more peak torque-- more like you have-- because clutch options/compromises become pretty harsh when the torque gets way up there. Will stay with my current Vitesse turbo and engine management.
10-10-2010, 05:23 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
As they say down here, Bugger!
So given a blank canvas Tom do you think there is anything more that you can do? Clearly you have a plan so best of luck with that. Are you going to keep pootling around on 14psi until the new motor is built? Not the worst case scenario of course.
So given a blank canvas Tom do you think there is anything more that you can do? Clearly you have a plan so best of luck with that. Are you going to keep pootling around on 14psi until the new motor is built? Not the worst case scenario of course.
10-10-2010, 05:33 PM
#33
Tom. really sorry to hear this.
I seem to be getting a similar problem on my engine, will report when I replace the studs (Raceware->stock), in my case I want to believe the problem is caused by improper torque and no retorquing of the head... I hope
I seem to be getting a similar problem on my engine, will report when I replace the studs (Raceware->stock), in my case I want to believe the problem is caused by improper torque and no retorquing of the head... I hope
10-10-2010, 06:09 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I tried new Racewares this time, but only went to 65/70 ft lbs this time because raceware insisted that was the best clamp. But this time I did retorque them and it didn't help. In my last attempt before this one, I torqued to 95 ft lbs., and it did seem to hold a few psi more boost, but then the profec malfunctioned and I blew it out again...
10-11-2010, 02:04 AM
#35
Rennlist Member
Well....drum roll please...... it didn't.
After trying every trick in the book, it's still leaking. It's hard to check with the o-rings installed in the block, but at this point it seems the deck has low spots and it's just not going to seal well enough. It'll drive around town fine, and hold stock boost levels, but when I turn the boost up even a little, it starts pushing coolant out the overflow. Because the block is o-ringed, it's not as simple as just getting it decked. So, it's back to the drawing board right now. I do have a plan though, and it should be a good one -- benefitting from all lessons learned. New 2.7 core is already here, courtesy of Travis at Rennbay...stay tuned....
After trying every trick in the book, it's still leaking. It's hard to check with the o-rings installed in the block, but at this point it seems the deck has low spots and it's just not going to seal well enough. It'll drive around town fine, and hold stock boost levels, but when I turn the boost up even a little, it starts pushing coolant out the overflow. Because the block is o-ringed, it's not as simple as just getting it decked. So, it's back to the drawing board right now. I do have a plan though, and it should be a good one -- benefitting from all lessons learned. New 2.7 core is already here, courtesy of Travis at Rennbay...stay tuned....
DoomII..... here it comes
10-11-2010, 05:22 AM
#36
Nordschleife Master
Will you be using larger head studs for the new block?
What diameter? Have you spoken to Milledge about the problems? (since you mention Milledge).
What diameter? Have you spoken to Milledge about the problems? (since you mention Milledge).
07-14-2011, 11:49 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I just ran across this thread again and thought I should update it for the record. I'm happy to say I'm back to 19psi for the last few months and the HG is holding strong. In my effort to fix the original problem, I had the head surfaced twice -- effectively increasing my compression. The deck had already been surfaced, so taking more off the head just compounded the issue. I noticed that the dowel pin that aligns the head to the block seemed to be making a ridge in the head, suggesting the head was hanging up on the dowel pin when torqued. I ordered new pins with the intention of grinding them shorter, and was surprised to see that Porsche actually sells shorter pins now under the same part number. Coincidence? I also retarded the ignition timing quite a bit, since the static compression is now higher than designed. And I torqued the raceware studs to an even 100 ft. lbs. and used a 25psi coolant cap. That all seems to be doing the trick -- motor is running at least as well as ever (knock on wood!)... Just thought I'd post that up for prosperity.
07-15-2011, 12:09 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
I just ran across this thread again and thought I should update it for the record. I'm happy to say I'm back to 19psi for the last few months and the HG is holding strong. In my effort to fix the original problem, I had the head surfaced twice -- effectively increasing my compression. The deck had already been surfaced, so taking more off the head just compounded the issue. I noticed that the dowel pin that aligns the head to the block seemed to be making a ridge in the head, suggesting the head was hanging up on the dowel pin when torqued. I ordered new pins with the intention of grinding them shorter, and was surprised to see that Porsche actually sells shorter pins now under the same part number. Coincidence? I also retarded the ignition timing quite a bit, since the static compression is now higher than designed. And I torqued the raceware studs to an even 100 ft. lbs. and used a 25psi coolant cap. That all seems to be doing the trick -- motor is running at least as well as ever (knock on wood!)... Just thought I'd post that up for prosperity.
Hi Five Tom!!
Great work
Regards
Ed
07-15-2011, 12:33 PM
#40
Three Wheelin'
Good to hear. btw, my head gasket had blown out also (11 o-clock, position of cylinder 4). The head is about to be sent out to have a bunch of work done to it. I'll know then, if it was warped.
07-16-2011, 05:51 AM
#41
