Water in KLR tube
#16
Three Wheelin'
I was on the fence about replacing my fuel damper, but now that puppy is on the next parts order. It's the last bit of old fuel related stuff to get replaced; no need to tempt Murphy, right?
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Yeah – don’t drive it until fixed!!
A customer of mine had his damper fail at the track – it filled his intercooler, KLR line, all vacuum lines, half of one cylinder and some of the intake manifold with gas. I ran my lawnmower of a month on the gas I drained out of his engine….
A customer of mine had his damper fail at the track – it filled his intercooler, KLR line, all vacuum lines, half of one cylinder and some of the intake manifold with gas. I ran my lawnmower of a month on the gas I drained out of his engine….
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Tom, Ihaz944t
Bit of a lull in the KLR saga. Had to do some maintenance at the cottage on Saturday.
This morning I checked out the KLR tube by blowing air through it. It's not blocked but has definitely had gas in it. Re-assembled the KLR at the manifold and the KLR unit and started the car.
I pulled the FPR vacuum line to the air intake manifold and there is no sign of any gas coming from the FPR. Does that rule out the FPR and the Damper?
I thought I could hear some air escaping from the area where the KLR banjo bolt mates with the air intake manifold. Used a stethoscope to confirm and and there is some air escaping. I managed to lose the washer that mounts between the KLR banjo bolt and the Air Intake so I used a standard washer of the same gauge but it's not making an airtight seal. Does this make much difference?
VDO boost gauge is still stuck at 1.
Appreciate any added thoughts.
Cheers:
Steve
Bit of a lull in the KLR saga. Had to do some maintenance at the cottage on Saturday.
This morning I checked out the KLR tube by blowing air through it. It's not blocked but has definitely had gas in it. Re-assembled the KLR at the manifold and the KLR unit and started the car.
I pulled the FPR vacuum line to the air intake manifold and there is no sign of any gas coming from the FPR. Does that rule out the FPR and the Damper?
I thought I could hear some air escaping from the area where the KLR banjo bolt mates with the air intake manifold. Used a stethoscope to confirm and and there is some air escaping. I managed to lose the washer that mounts between the KLR banjo bolt and the Air Intake so I used a standard washer of the same gauge but it's not making an airtight seal. Does this make much difference?
VDO boost gauge is still stuck at 1.
Appreciate any added thoughts.
Cheers:
Steve
#19
Hmm I guess that would mean its not the FPR, or maybe it leaks intermittently? did you try the same with the damper? I dont even know what that thing does but there has to be something putting gas in your vacuum system.
If you clearned out the line and its still stuck at 1 it kind of sounds like gasoline damaged your KLR :/
My guess may not mean much but thats what went through my head, good luck!
If you clearned out the line and its still stuck at 1 it kind of sounds like gasoline damaged your KLR :/
My guess may not mean much but thats what went through my head, good luck!
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Tom, Ihaz944t
Bit of a lull in the KLR saga. Had to do some maintenance at the cottage on Saturday.
This morning I checked out the KLR tube by blowing air through it. It's not blocked but has definitely had gas in it. Re-assembled the KLR at the manifold and the KLR unit and started the car.
I pulled the FPR vacuum line to the air intake manifold and there is no sign of any gas coming from the FPR. Does that rule out the FPR and the Damper?
I thought I could hear some air escaping from the area where the KLR banjo bolt mates with the air intake manifold. Used a stethoscope to confirm and and there is some air escaping. I managed to lose the washer that mounts between the KLR banjo bolt and the Air Intake so I used a standard washer of the same gauge but it's not making an airtight seal. Does this make much difference?
VDO boost gauge is still stuck at 1.
Appreciate any added thoughts.
Cheers:
Steve
Bit of a lull in the KLR saga. Had to do some maintenance at the cottage on Saturday.
This morning I checked out the KLR tube by blowing air through it. It's not blocked but has definitely had gas in it. Re-assembled the KLR at the manifold and the KLR unit and started the car.
I pulled the FPR vacuum line to the air intake manifold and there is no sign of any gas coming from the FPR. Does that rule out the FPR and the Damper?
I thought I could hear some air escaping from the area where the KLR banjo bolt mates with the air intake manifold. Used a stethoscope to confirm and and there is some air escaping. I managed to lose the washer that mounts between the KLR banjo bolt and the Air Intake so I used a standard washer of the same gauge but it's not making an airtight seal. Does this make much difference?
VDO boost gauge is still stuck at 1.
Appreciate any added thoughts.
Cheers:
Steve
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At this point I'm going to get the proper washer and hopefully seal the air leak, although I'm not convinced that will solve the problem.
Even if it does the bigger issue is where did the gas come from? I have to think the FPR or the damper could be the only sources. when I originally leaped to the wrong conclusion about having water in the KLR tube I was led there by the fact that the line had what looked like condensation, in that there were droplets, not a standing column. So it probably accumulates over time.
I need to resolve where the gas is coming from. I can't believe that gas coming onto contact with an electrically charged (non conformally coated) circuit card in the KLR unit is not a potential hazard.
It's looking like I should pick up a spare KLR unit from E-bay but I won't use it until I get the gas source nailed down.
Appreciate the continued interest.
Even if it does the bigger issue is where did the gas come from? I have to think the FPR or the damper could be the only sources. when I originally leaped to the wrong conclusion about having water in the KLR tube I was led there by the fact that the line had what looked like condensation, in that there were droplets, not a standing column. So it probably accumulates over time.
I need to resolve where the gas is coming from. I can't believe that gas coming onto contact with an electrically charged (non conformally coated) circuit card in the KLR unit is not a potential hazard.
It's looking like I should pick up a spare KLR unit from E-bay but I won't use it until I get the gas source nailed down.
Appreciate the continued interest.
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Well, I sealed the air leak and pulled the vacuum line from the Damper to the manifold and no signs of any gas there.
Pulled out the KLR and got a surprise I wasn't counting on. I posted another thread on that topic. Judging from the scratch marks on the KLR someone has been in there prior to my buying the car 9 years ago. Trying to figure out what kind of chips were installed.
Anyway, I noticed a bit of corrosion in the inlet fitting on the KLR where the tube mates to the box. Other than that the boards look to be pristine and there is no obvious gas smell. The pressure sensor component (Bosch) appears to have no corrosion but whether it still works is debatable.
I'm about out of options beyond buying a used KLR off e-Pay.
Thanks for your help to date.
Pulled out the KLR and got a surprise I wasn't counting on. I posted another thread on that topic. Judging from the scratch marks on the KLR someone has been in there prior to my buying the car 9 years ago. Trying to figure out what kind of chips were installed.
Anyway, I noticed a bit of corrosion in the inlet fitting on the KLR where the tube mates to the box. Other than that the boards look to be pristine and there is no obvious gas smell. The pressure sensor component (Bosch) appears to have no corrosion but whether it still works is debatable.
I'm about out of options beyond buying a used KLR off e-Pay.
Thanks for your help to date.
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Tom:
The factory boost gauge is stuck on 1 when the ignition is on. Ignition off the gauge returns to .4 as per normal. The last time I had the car out it performed as always but the gauge is stuck at 1.
The factory boost gauge is stuck on 1 when the ignition is on. Ignition off the gauge returns to .4 as per normal. The last time I had the car out it performed as always but the gauge is stuck at 1.
#25
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Ignition on, engine not running, the gauge is supposed to be at 1 bar. That's atmospheric pressure. Once you start the engine, it will move to the left - that's vacuum, or less than atmospheric pressure because the pistons moving up and down are sucking air, creating less pressure in the intake. When you're accelerating, and on boost, the turbo charger it pumping extra air into the intake - this will make the needle move the the right of "1" - this extra air will cause positive pressure, or pressure greater than atmospheric, to be in the intake.
I'm unclear - are you having a gauge problem or a power (boost pressure) problem?
I'm unclear - are you having a gauge problem or a power (boost pressure) problem?
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Van:
Ignition off needle is at extreme left. Ignition on needle moves to 1 and doesn't move regardless of throttle position. On acceleration it doesn't move and when I let off the throttle instead of moving to the left it stays stuck at 1.
Ignition off needle is at extreme left. Ignition on needle moves to 1 and doesn't move regardless of throttle position. On acceleration it doesn't move and when I let off the throttle instead of moving to the left it stays stuck at 1.
#27
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Gotcha. Then I think it's your dash or the gauge. If the car performs properly while driving (the right amount of boost and power), then the KLR is seeing the pressure in the intake manifold and is adjusting fuel and timing for the boost pressure. Your breakdown is post KLR (although it could be the signal coming out of the KLR...), but I'm going to place my bet on the gauge.
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I'd be careful until you find the source of that gasoline. If it leaked once, it'll leak again. And no one needs gas leaking on their headers!
I would assume the pressure sensor was damaged by the gas, but you can check the voltage on pin 5 of the klr to see if it's stuck at one voltage (a 1 on the guage represents .5vdc on that pin, if the gauge is connected and everything is working).
I would assume the pressure sensor was damaged by the gas, but you can check the voltage on pin 5 of the klr to see if it's stuck at one voltage (a 1 on the guage represents .5vdc on that pin, if the gauge is connected and everything is working).
#29
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Gotcha. Then I think it's your dash or the gauge. If the car performs properly while driving (the right amount of boost and power), then the KLR is seeing the pressure in the intake manifold and is adjusting fuel and timing for the boost pressure. Your breakdown is post KLR (although it could be the signal coming out of the KLR...), but I'm going to place my bet on the gauge.
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I managed to pick up a used KLR for an 89 951.
I'm out of my depth at this point so I'm going to take her into my long standing mechanic (he used to work for the local Porsche dealership back when these cars were new).
I won't be installing the new KLR unit until he's got the source of the gas contamination sorted out. I figure with the corrosion on the brass inlet fitting for the KLR tube it's a pretty good bet that the pressure sensor has some crap in it as well.
Is the Bosch Pressure Sensor component still available or is there an alternate part available? If so I could have a backup KLR available to me.
Thanks a lot for your help with this.
I'm out of my depth at this point so I'm going to take her into my long standing mechanic (he used to work for the local Porsche dealership back when these cars were new).
I won't be installing the new KLR unit until he's got the source of the gas contamination sorted out. I figure with the corrosion on the brass inlet fitting for the KLR tube it's a pretty good bet that the pressure sensor has some crap in it as well.
Is the Bosch Pressure Sensor component still available or is there an alternate part available? If so I could have a backup KLR available to me.
Thanks a lot for your help with this.