Can anyone diagnose this, metal in my intercooler boot and pipes?
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I found this shortly after my diverter valve went out. I was at the track and did a few laps and a two hour drive home after it went.
My guess - Each time the diverter valve failed to work the unreleased pleasure stalled the turbo pushing it off center into the housing? The fins look good, I don't feel an excessive amount of play. If this is the case how much might I be loosing, HP wise?
Thanks,
My guess - Each time the diverter valve failed to work the unreleased pleasure stalled the turbo pushing it off center into the housing? The fins look good, I don't feel an excessive amount of play. If this is the case how much might I be loosing, HP wise?
Thanks,
Last edited by Tay-Tay; 09-09-2012 at 08:13 PM.
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Take the boot off and look at your turbo. Look at the inlet and outlet. Feel for any shaft play!
Aluminum shaving could be coming from the comp wheel hitting the comp housing. Best not to drive till you find the source.\\Pull the intake manifold, hopefully this stuff did not make it inside the engine. Of course, remove and clean the IC.
Aluminum shaving could be coming from the comp wheel hitting the comp housing. Best not to drive till you find the source.\\Pull the intake manifold, hopefully this stuff did not make it inside the engine. Of course, remove and clean the IC.
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Take the boot off and look at your turbo. Look at the inlet and outlet. Feel for any shaft play!
Aluminum shaving could be coming from the comp wheel hitting the comp housing. Best not to drive till you find the source.\\Pull the intake manifold, hopefully this stuff did not make it inside the engine. Of course, remove and clean the IC.
Aluminum shaving could be coming from the comp wheel hitting the comp housing. Best not to drive till you find the source.\\Pull the intake manifold, hopefully this stuff did not make it inside the engine. Of course, remove and clean the IC.
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I forgot to mention this happened two years ago. Needless to say I've driven it like this a few times. I'm wondering if it is from the compressor wheel hitting the housing, how much hp am I loosing? If it's 10hp I can live with it, if it's 25+ it may be a good excuse to replace the turbo. Guesses?
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I forgot to mention this happened two years ago. Needless to say I've driven it like this a few times. I'm wondering if it is from the compressor wheel hitting the housing, how much hp am I loosing? If it's 10hp I can live with it, if it's 25+ it may be a good excuse to replace the turbo. Guesses?
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Anything that's not all doom and gloom?
How am I doin? Bruce ;]
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In all reality, metal shavings in a high performance close tolerance motor can and are a VERY bad thing.... the least of my worries would be burning a valve due to the metal fusing to the valve seats.... but then I have been told I am a bit negative sometimes... unless you know beyond a shadow of a doubt there are NO shavings making it INTO the motor, stop driving it until everything is fixed...
A rebuild, on an otherwise good motor can easily exceed the value of the car, you will want to fix whatever is causing the shavings BEFORE you drive it, unless you have $$ to spend to fix it, and all kinds of time on your hands... FWIW, I am currently spending 1K MORE than I paid for my 951 to have the motor rebuilt, and that is the quote if no extra machining is required, or valves needing replacement, last time I saw valves were getting mighty expensive...
Not going for doom and gloom, but trying to be realistic... I would not drive it if it were mine, as I am prone to break stuff at the WORST possible time to do so...
BTW this is what a burnt valve looks like!
![](http://image54.webshots.com/54/2/30/7/2834230070084183502nFNarn_ph.jpg)
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Bruce, that's the positive attitude I wanted to hear!
I'm just realizing now that my post is clear as mud. This picture above is from two years ago. When I saw this, I cleaned everything, and diligently checked the boots and pipes for metal each time I drove it. I haven't had a spec of metal in my pipes or boots since then. So, whatever caused this was a one time thing two years ago, good ever since. I'm trying to get a feel for how much power I may have lost by essentially shortening the compressor wheel when it contacted the housing.
Sorry, I should have been able to explain this in the first post.
Taylor
I'm just realizing now that my post is clear as mud. This picture above is from two years ago. When I saw this, I cleaned everything, and diligently checked the boots and pipes for metal each time I drove it. I haven't had a spec of metal in my pipes or boots since then. So, whatever caused this was a one time thing two years ago, good ever since. I'm trying to get a feel for how much power I may have lost by essentially shortening the compressor wheel when it contacted the housing.
Sorry, I should have been able to explain this in the first post.
Taylor
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Bruce, that's the positive attitude I wanted to hear!
I'm just realizing now that my post is clear as mud. This picture above is from two years ago. When I saw this, I cleaned everything, and diligently checked the boots and pipes for metal each time I drove it. I haven't had a spec of metal in my pipes or boots since then. So, whatever caused this was a one time thing two years ago, good ever since. I'm trying to get a feel for how much power I may have lost by essentially shortening the compressor wheel when it contacted the housing.
Sorry, I should have been able to explain this in the first post.
Taylor
I'm just realizing now that my post is clear as mud. This picture above is from two years ago. When I saw this, I cleaned everything, and diligently checked the boots and pipes for metal each time I drove it. I haven't had a spec of metal in my pipes or boots since then. So, whatever caused this was a one time thing two years ago, good ever since. I'm trying to get a feel for how much power I may have lost by essentially shortening the compressor wheel when it contacted the housing.
Sorry, I should have been able to explain this in the first post.
Taylor
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You are losing power...plenty. These cars are totally dependent on the turbo to make them fast. You do the math.
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How much boost is the car making now, and when does it arrive, how long does it stay? Does the car smoke? If you're happy with it, its not losing that much HP. Since you posted, you probably aren't happy. If you have some $, replace the turbo.
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I have a manual boost control, no cat, Tial WG and a #6 hot side. I'm set at 15 lbs of boost which comes on at about 3400 RPM. It doesn't hold to redline, probably drops to 11 by then, no smoke.
I've done so much over the years I'm not sure what it should feel like, that's why I ask. Either way it's time to save for a new/bigger turbo.
Thanks
I've done so much over the years I'm not sure what it should feel like, that's why I ask. Either way it's time to save for a new/bigger turbo.
Thanks